Taz_Rx

Both K40 and KE55 K50 cross member mounts are the same. KE70 K50 CM mount is different to the rest, but the same as an RA40 W50 mount. :bash: Shifter position is really personal preference.

haha I know its a POS, but remember I built that car out of left overs!!! :y: I been thinking about how its going shit the last couple of days and I'm thinking it might be the timing is up the shit. When I was playing with it when we got there, I'd advance it a bit, would go heaps better, but ping its head off!!! Then when it was retarded enough to not ping it went like shit. Its an old 3k dizzy in that motor, so I'll swap it for a 4k one and see if it make any difference. :bash:

Having one of those 'more money than sense' days I think. :bash: Can't run a copper gasket until I get a block o-ringed. .......Believe it or not while typing this post I have just had a phone call with clutch prices!!!! Will PM you now.

Yeah more than I really want to pay....but where else will I get one! :bash: Put me down for one. :y:

Old pics for Rundell: Shows fuel line and throttle cable going through the bottom half of the air box. Fuel hose uses a thread tube (is actually the adjuster part of a central locking pin switch) with nuts on either side to hold in place and seal it. Also a pic of the custom bracket I made for the carby accelerator linkage. Angle of cable was not ideal as you can see. but worked fine with a bit of lube (greese). This also sealed the cable and sheeth a bit better too.

I put my hand up on Club-K. :bash: Can we get it any cheap again with say 10 buyers????

This would be a TE37 dash you're referring to. Think there's like 1 in Aus. retro-fit FTW!!....

Nice work Trev! Never seen one go like that! Spose atleast you've still got a bell housing, even if it is a bit scored.

WTF!!! :S

haha nice work. Get the vids up too! :S I know I had a fun weekend....even with a pathetic turnout!!! :D spose thats the norm for a tassie rollaclub event though!! Still gotta laugh at what everybody did when exiting the k'sev - being spit your mouthful of gravel/dirt! ;) The main problem being that you couldn't keep your mouth shut while grinning from ear to ear - which you could not avoid!!! :no2: I can word Rob up about the green AE71???

May also be the shaft in the gear box that the solid gear set runs on. They have a habbit of wearing and causing clunks/rattles. Hard to tell where the noise is coming from too. If you don't have any luck with the uni, get some gearbox oil and remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the GB. Grab the solid gearset and see if it moves around at all. Replacements are still available through toyota aparently.

One very dirty '55. Spose it looks better than Ben's '70 but!!..... Did you get vids of the jumps on your phone Az? ....Oh and it turns out that the rubber strut top mounts in a K'sev aren't real strong!!!! :S

If you have flow and pressure in the fuel line, check that the needle and seat is not stuck shut. Choke won't make any difference in the carbs getting fuel!

kg/cm2 = BAR 1 Bar = 14.22psi :S

Try and get here at 10 if you can?

Click the kowledge base/FAQ tab at the top and read.....read, and read some more. Then come back in a week and tell us what your bolt in options are. :bash:

The one I'm using is 250v 0.22uF but something around that should do. Hey do you want me to send you an ignition map!? :bash:

Right, firstly check on the dizzy to HI6 wiring AS IT IS NOW to get the polarity of the dizzy output. You know what your *MAG+* and *MAG-* are on the HI6 end, so mark these across onto the dizzy. Dizzy + (pulse) > ECU TRIGGER IN 1 (brown/white) - pin 28 Dizzy - > ECU TRIGGER GROUND (blue/green) - pin 27 Use a capacitor ACROSS the wires. I will supply this to you FOC. :bash: So that has the ECU getting a pulse. Now signal out. ECU IGNITION 1 (red {in 6 core sheilded}) - pin 32 > HI6 MAG + ECU IGNITION GROUND (blue/sheild {in 6 core sheilded}) - pin 31 > HI6 MAG - Wiring from HI6 to coil remains as is. So all you have done with the above is connect the ECU between the signal and the HI6. This then give the ECU to ability to adjust timing. IMPORTANT THINGS TO DO BEFOR STARTING: 1, Disconnect the HI6 tacho output from ECU coil neg wire. 2, "ENGINE" configuration should be on 4Cyl/TrigCrankSingle/Inj2Bank/IgnDist 3, Bump up timing from 20*BTDC (or where ever you have it set) to 60*BTDC. This give you 60* to play with 4, Go into TRIGGER>TRIGGER DEG BTDC and set to 60*. This can be set anywhere you want as long as its matched up here. Wolf recommend 60* as it give you a god scope for tuning, and hey we will never need any more than 60*!!! :dance: 6, turn off anything that relates to Coil Neg. To set timing.... Think that about covers it. Call me if you get stuck. :)

Wheels aren't mine. Mazda stud pattern anyway. Those advans are now on Tar (turbo car). :bash:

Nah should be right there. Got a few baldy or 20% treaders kicken about...... hehehe

Liegh has no excuses owning a Zuk!!! :bash:

Slow. Maybe 17-18's How quick can it be.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=16233 :bash:

I can give you a hand with wiring if you want mate. :) Bout time you got this thing running. :dance:

sell the car now! :bash: Nah JK, congrats man.