Taz_Rx

If I where you I'd just made some little adapter brackets that screw to the rad support panel and then have the adjuster screw bolt into it, rather than going to the trouble of trying to weld something in. If you haven't done anything about it befor Saturday I'll explain a little better what I mean, and could most likely give you a couple of "central locking straps" to use for it. :P

Is the first one a removable soft top!? :P

Need tissues!!!! Effectively a drift car.....with a Le Mans engine! Hell yeah! :P

Hey mate, DON'T put your subs in the holes where you're talking about, UNLESS you can make a half decent moulded fibreglass enclosure for them. But even if you did this I reckon you'd be pushing it for the capacity you would need for a 10" sub. Reverse mounting them might bump it up to sufficient voluum but this would wreck the practically of the wagon. There's sometimes a lot to be said for a removable, pre-fab, correct voluum sub box. No sub box = "free air subs" = "air pmps" = don't bother!!!!! :P

...and finally, somebody using 6x9 for what they were designed for!!!! being the parcel shelf of a hatch back, using the boot space as an enclosure, ie poor mans subs. ALTHOUGH, since you have a sub, you would have been better off withj a set of 6" components! :P

You did use "drum and caliper" paint yeah?

it IS my old setup! :fuzz:

Probably not until this lot has gone first mate. I Have a white one for myself, might be persuaded to have another colour so you can have white!? :fuzz:

.....that I breath fresh air, that gives me the ability to think for myself. :fuzz:

This was something I was questioning befor making my order. Basically a ke70 water pump pulley has a slightly bigger PCD than a ke55 type one. I'm now running a ke70 water pump, and didn't want to get another '55 one modded with speedflow fittings, so I asked if they can be made with both, hence the "universal water pump pulley" with both PCD's. This is what the rotary ones are like too. :fuzz:

......And a 4age/4agze/4agte XE7X has never been done befor!!?? :fuzz: You're all a bunch of sheep!!! :fuzz:

Where do you plan on getting all the ARP bolts? I had a hell of a time just trying to find head bolts, ended up coming from the States, through NZ!!! Only Toyota ARP head studs Kym Sheppard has a listing for is 7mgte (what a suprise!).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Speco-Fuel-Pressure...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-PROCOMP-FUEL-PR...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLLEY-12-803-FUEL-...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-PROCOMP-BILLET-...1QQcmdZViewItem :fuzz:

Should be pretty obvious mate. There should be a clear (or brown by now) hose running the the under side of the bonnet, disconnect this from the bonnet, or from the pump on the bottle.

Pump placement can make a hell of a difference depending on what pump you use. As Coln72 has just illuded to, some pumps like Holley's are not self priming. This means they can push well, but not suck. The easiest way around this is to mount a 'non self-priming' pump below the level of the bottom of the tank. The pump may still need priming when you first install it, but it will then be gravity fed by the tank. If you ran out of fuel you may need to prime it again. Obviously for the reasons you couldn't mount a Holley in the engine bay....unless you ONLY drove DOWN hills! :hmm: Other pumps like Carters and Facets are self priming. This means they can suck as well as they push, and can be basically mounted anywhere. Look, in terms of regulators you should really have one. FFS, for carby cars they're like $30-40 BRAND NEW!!! Irregular fuel pressure and flow (without a reg) can cause major tuning issues throughout the rev range, and would be bloody hard to identify the problem. Install a regulator and just know its all good. :sob:

You can use an "ON" power signal to run the pump, but also run it off a relay.

what guy on a bike....dude there a lion in a sidecar!!!! :sob:

Lady and gentlemen, I bring to you the most random coolest photo EVER!!!! A Lion...... ......in a sidecar..... ....On the "Wall of death"!! Can't get much cooler than that! :no2:

As the rolla screen is pretty easy to do, you mind be able to find somebody to come to you to do it. :no2: Had had to replace a crack screen in one of my cars. Cost me $20 for second hand glass, then $50 to have it fitted by a professional.

Try and find out. A needle and seat is just like float systern in your toilet. If you have too much pressure, it will push the float down into the fuel bowl and leak excess fuel in. The other thing about regulators is the "regulate" fuel pressure, ie keep it contant. Will will find that fuel pressure and flow can fluctuate throughout the rev range, fuel usage, and even vary from the amount of charge from the alterator!!! You should hear the Holley red in my mazda take off when you floor it! :no2:

Stocko asian carbs only like about 3-4psi. If you put too much pressure into one it will force open the needle and seat and it'll never run right. A small weber 32/36 etc will withstand much higher pressures on the needle and seat. What ever you use a fuel pressure regulator is always a good idea. :no2:

haha you mean one of things you use for cleaning blocked drains!? :no2: and that rear windscreen needs a rc.com sticker!!!

Maybe do all the prep work yourself, then get somebody handy with a spray gun to do the actual spraying for you. :no2:

As jip mentioned above, you can use the same rubber not worries at all. It pushes over the edge of the glass and then drops into place. The chrome strip then jams it in. DO NOT SMASH THE WINDSCREEN TO GET IT OUT, you only make a mess!! Remove the shrome strips, then with the assistance of a mate sit in the front seats (wound back), and use you feet to push it out. Try and spead the force evenly across the glass. It may crack, but keep pushing and you might be amazed at how easy it comes out. :no2:

No wuckin furries. :no2: