Taz_Rx

I can give you a hand with wiring if you want mate. :) Bout time you got this thing running. :dance:

sell the car now! :bash: Nah JK, congrats man.

Yes youi're correct with the TE/KE thing. Quick guide to Toyota prefixes: First letter(s) is the Engine type eg K, T, A, G, J etc Second letter is the chassis code. E = corolla, weather its KE, AE, ZE etc. Then the numbers on the end are the specific model. So..... KE30 = K motor, corolla chassis, 30 is model. RA40 = R motor, Celica chassis (A=celica/supra), 40 is model JZA80 = JZ motor, celica chassis, 80 is model etc etc. There is other alternatives to fitting a T motor on a K cross member, rather than using the TE cross member. Believe they are gemini engine mounts or something. PM Flat_out...he has a 2T on a stock K cross member, just ask what mounts he used. Launy boy too. As for GB cross member, anybody know if a KE20 has the second set of bolt holes in T50 spot like 30/55's???? Yes you'll have to fit hydro clutch. Thats not hard. With a bit more power than a K you shouldn't have to much trouble breaking a KE20 diff. Maybe upgrade to a T series diff now, with tail shaft. Then your spline and diff yoke is correct, will just have to shorten the tail shaft to suit the KE20.

Dirt is still stock height.....well actually looks sligtly higher :yes: than stock, so should be an issue. SO WHO IS ACTUALLY COMING????? Looks like at the moment the only people really confirmed are myself, Ben and Aaron! You bringing the Zuk Leigh? There's a couple of Patrol recovery vehicles coming too, so you can play with them!

Good site Jason! :yes: Yeah your theory will work, like Irokin said though it'll be a matter of when it runs out of puff. I helped a guy down here with a 3lt deisel patrol turbo (IIRC) on a datsun A12 petrol motor...... Lot of work has been done on that engine bay since btw. IE rubber hose turbo piping. :no2:

Nikki carbs of mazda 323's 626's capellas etc bolt straight onto corolla manis, as well as gemini nikkis.

Fire extinguishers are better than water! :no2: lower the cooler temp to basically dry ice temp, and doesn't leave a trail of water to get you kicked off the drag strip. :yes:

Yeah might be a good idea. Just thought about this last night, don't particularly want to to detroy good road tyres...mind you they're about bald anyway. I've got a few old things I can take for the back, but these might be good fronts as you say, so bring them along if you don't mind. Yeah still at CAI.

Leave the dizzy and get a CDi ignitor. Thats one of the things I trying to decide on at the moment.

Just think of your HI6 as an ignitor. Forget anything else it can do for the moment. You only need 1x ignitor, regardless of setup. Running coil neg the ECU only really needs a pulse to tell it RPM, and fire injectors accordingly. To run single pulse (ECU controlled) ignition setup - The reluctor pickup (magnet) is wired direct to the ECU (ground and trigger in 1 - pins 27 & 28), instead of the HI6. The ECU then still uses this pulse as an RPM reference to fire injectors. Difference is the ECU can then advance or retard the outgoing ignition pulse to the ignitor. In your case this ignitor would be the HI6 (instead of the M&W I'm using) which just happens to be CDI. The only reason you need to use an ignitor in this setup is because the ECU pulls the coil to ground. If you didn't use one, the full neg discharge of the coil would go through the ECU and blow it up. Think of it this way - An ignitor is just a 'fast switching' EARTHING RELAY. So you don't need the one pictured. :no2: Chuck it in the bin....or light the stove! :y: In either of the above cases your HI6 is doing the job that the stock ignitor would normally do. Give me a call tonight when you finish work if you want. Will PM you about oil cooler tonight or something, as I should have the clutch prices by then too. :yes:

Yeah still go that oil cooler. But this would still have to attache to the ECU coil neg wire yeah? If you change the engine config to single pulse, you need to have a signal out (to ignitor) as well as just the reference pulse in. Coil neg just take this refernece pulse to fire the injectors and lets the ignition (HI6) do its own thing.

Yeah mate. You wanna meet me at my place?

You might find that the fuel pump is actually activated by "pull to ground".

oh and you need a capacitor across the 2 wires. I'll post you one for free. :fuzz:

yep. If you wanna set it up like mine so you have ECU controlled ignition then you wouldn't need to re-fit the ignitor. Just re-wire it so the Hi6 IS the ignitor. :fuzz: The Hi6 is obviously already getting a pulse, so just redirect this pulse into the wolf. And remember to change to "ENGINE" configuration to single pulse, not coil negative. If the pulse isn't strong enough (this where my problems were) adjust the "Trigger voltage level", and then if its still too weak close up the points air gap.

Yeah as the clutch plate wears the pressure plate get less pre-tention on it, causing the fingers to poke out the back of the pressure plate more. Its an exedy clutch Boost+k. :fuzz:

Yeah dare say it would be as it has that screw on it, which would be the hi-voltage negative terminal. Signal should be round the other way too - Electronic points>WOLF>CRANE>coil. Exactly the same as mine but using the Crane Hi6 as an ignitor. Otherwise the Wolf gets a CDI signal. :fuzz:

haha that'd do it. I did think if suggesting that, but didn't think you'd be so silly!! :fuzz:

Deffinately parks, not headights. If you wire it to the headlights, it'll probably turn off when you use high beam. on the parkers it won't. :fuzz:

looks like K electronic points, but its a bit different to mine. there was deffinately no internal ignitor in mine, so maybe this is the internal ignitor type!? :fuzz:

Hey ben, think you'll find it is simply a streched cable. Seen this happen a few times. The new clutch has a diffeent take up point. There is a place on howick street, just up round the corner from me, called rope and chain, go round there and get them to shorten in for you. :fuzz: Work case scenario I'll lend you the one out of the wagon for the weekend. If you want a brand new one..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE30...1QQcmdZViewItem :P

eah just slip the rag in and turn the handles. Will unclip itself.

I dunno, being sunday and all, might leave somewhere between 10-11?

Try purging it somehow. Easy way is obviously just giving it a suck....but this normally results in a mouthful of fuel. :P =) Once you've got all the air of of the line you should be right. :fuzz:

Sorry for slight offtopic'ness, but the vid below that one in youtube "wankel turbo ski race boat" is one of my fav vids of all time. Gotta love it.....3 rotors, lotsa boost, 105mph (on water!) and 9500rpm!! :fuzz: