Trev

No probs, no harm in asking.

Nice to see you have the tacho fitted.

Hey guys is there any chance that you can make it the following w/e?

Welcome to the AE82 rolla problem that everyone has, some people put washers between the bonnet and the hinge to lift it a bit but i havnt been bothered so i just put up with it and its a toyota so you never have to lift the bonnet alot anyway :hmm:

Has anyone had a look to see if there is the secondary switch on the booster?

Yes but some cars (i don't have a ke70 infront of me to have a look) also have 1 between the lines to do with pressure.

It would be due to pressure in the lines, (^^^ do what he said) On your brake booster you should see a wire coming out of where the brake lines do that and that is more than likely where the warning is coming from.

Question that will get a bite (but i don't want it to). What is wrong with the stock radio's in your cars, why do you have to get something different? You all know that i have alot of tacho's and so on so why not use them, It would be like owning for pioneer and not filling your car up. :dance:

You will also have to change the diff over to a low ratio as petrol diff's are normally high.

AWD CE104 2.0 diesel corolla: http://www.twincam.org/forums/index.php?sh...7&hl=diesel

Yes that big ugly thing that i installed on the dash is useful as it is going to tell him when he is about to break another cv shaft :dance:

What car is this in dude.

No prob.

Normally it will run into the inlet manifold, you could put a filter on it but run the risk of oil spray (a catch can might help) but make sure you hide the filter as it is a requirement to have it circulated back into the engine.

Hey dude try www.turbofast.com.au it has a calculator.

Ok i dunno what that had to do with this post, i tried to pm u but it didnt work, I'm from tivoli, ipswich. Reply in msn [email protected]

I highly doubt it. Have you known the car since new

Nah dude it is a Twincam 16, a step up to the CSX, basically it goes C, CS, CSX And Twincam which as i said is a sportyer csx.

Someone must of put it on there or they have changed the tailgate, has it got twincam 16 on it, have you got any pics. AE82 CSX Seca: AE82 Twincam Seca: (the red 1's)

Nick and Rthy are correct, The AE82 CSX only came out in the 4A-C, The twin cam edition was a step up sports pack including: 4 wheel discs, factory strut brace, sports s/wheel and a few other accessories, Does yours have rear wheel disc or drum brakes?

The 80-81 3T-C has 75hp @ 5000rpm and 95 tf lb of torque @ 2600rpm with a C/R of 9.0:1. The 82 3T-C has 70hp @ 4600rpm and 93 ft lb of torque @ 2400rpm with a C/R of 9.0:1. The 4A-C also has 59kW (79hp) as stated by toyota, There are alot of sites with different info, the info above might not even be true but its a general guide.

Indeed, Just go spend some money on the engine as it is.

Taken from Phil Bradshaws Homepage. Carburettor Ignition Systems There are a few different options to get the ignition system to run with the engine converted to carburettors. One way is to use a stock distributor but operate it via an aftermarket ignition module. These can work well, but cost the equivalent of about $250 US in New Zealand. Bill Sherwood (crazy damn Australian) has his AE 86 Sprinter running a fuel only aftermarket ECU EFI system. His stock distributor is controlled by Bosch ignition module part no 249-9-222-067-016. It does not allow advance, but this may not be a real issue for you if you are track racing etc. Bill's car is street driven and works OK. The module has 4 terminals. On Bill's car (first generation 4AGE) Terminal '15' is fed with 12 volts when the ignition is turned on. Terminal '16' is wired to the negative post on the coil (any old coil will do). Terminal '7' goes to the black wire coming from the distributor. Terminal '3' is connected to the red wire. The white wire is cut and not used. The modules cost about $30 US from a Bosch Dealer. Bill has a huge page on all things automotive, including modifying the 4AGE up to about 240hp - check it out here Another option is to replace the 4AGE distributor with a more conventional one. 2T or 2K electronic ignition type distributors are a popular option, but require a bit of modifying to fit, including fitment of the 4AGE distributor drive gear. You can then run vacuum and mechanical advance and use the standard coil/igniter pack. Ross Mackenzie runs a 'Fraser' Lotus 7 replica powered by a 3SGE on carbs. He uses a Nissan distributor to run his engine, as follows: "The dizzy in my car is from a Nissan E15 non turbo engine. These were fitted to mid 80's Pulsars and Sentras (probably others as well). The end of the dizzy body needs to be machined down to match the std 3SGE dizzy dimensions as does the end of the shaft, which is then fitted with the Toyota drive gear. A clamping block needs to be machined (or filed). This block is bolted to one of the original clamping holes on the head. I have utilised the Nissan adjustment slot which bolts to the clamping block, giving a good range of rotation. Once the dizzy is positioned on the engine the basic geometry of the block and dizzy adjustment will become self evident. The vacuum advance is removed and the base plate is locked down. I have sealed the hole with a piece of aluminum glued in place with Devcon. Use the standard Nissan dizzy cap and aftermarket 8mm leads. If you wish to retain the Toyota plug end they will have to be drilled out to accept the 8mm leads. I guess you could use aftermarket ones. All the electrics are contained in the dizzy (no separate igniter) with only 2 wires. On mine they are blue (-ve) and black and white (+ve). Just hook them up to the coil. The advance is 15-17 degrees at idle and 32-34 degrees at around 3000 rpm. According to Lynn Rogers and Neil Fraser, this is perfect for the 3SGE. Total cost.... around $US 75.00 including Dizzy, new rotor, cap and leads. I got the machining for free. To answer your question about why I removed the mechanical advance - well, because I was told to. I'm not sure of the reason for only using mechanical advance, but it is an old method. I think that it is because we are already running so much advance at idle (16 degrees-ish on mine) that it just isn't required. Regardless of theories it works well. It is pretty much the same as far as the advance curve goes - I don't have a good understanding of the intricacies of this subject, but at the end of the day this particular dizzy has the required range and rate of advance. I believe that the advance curve is similar to that in the custom computers - remember that this mod has only been used on carbed engines. Most of us are running 45mm DHLA or DCOEs with 40mm chokes and jetted to suit the intended use (road or track)." I would be curious to know if it goes any different with the vacuum advance connected. Also the distributor off the 3A engine looks like it may have some promise - it is all self contained also. If anyone has managed to modify one to run a 4AGE please let me know.

When you actually see the car the cannon looks quite good and has a nice note, most of the work has come from Danni-Elle and she isnt scared to get her hands dirty.

Good stuff dude.