towe001

First question - do you have a manual for the motor ? To set the timing correctly you'll have to short out two connections in the check plug (over near the wiper motor, can't really tell you more cause of a fading memory). While you've got the check plug shorted out, jump in the cab turn the key to the ignition spot and see if any fault codes come up. From memory the timing is 10deg. Next is making sure that the MAP sensor is connected and also the TPS. Yeah it might be an idea to check the timing marks for the cams, crank and make sure its all correct. And make sure the bolts for the dizzy are up tight on the dizzy and not bottoming out in the head. I'd be checking for fault codes before ripping things apart

If a bear shuts in the forest.....

Bugger and here i was hoping for a different question hehe But yes smoulding - doesn't have a good source of fuel And whats shutting me at the moment is my stupid bloody kodak digital camera Thumbs its nose at alkaline batteries chews through rechargeables like a rabbit on heat and the proper battery for it will rip a hole through ya pocket Damn it i want a camera that takes AA sized batteries Edit - i felt the need so i adding extra letters

Have you got the motor supported ?

Its called "white goods on wheels"

:P i'll totally agree with you there

With my old '82 i just pulled the motor and 'box out as a complete unit. And that was a phuck arse around to do in lifting the motor and 'box up and out. Seen pictures and read that the better way of doing the deed is in dropping the combo and lifting the front end of the car up and over. A mechanic that i used to see from time to time reckoned the 'box could be pulled from the car leaving the motor in the bay. And just a note - if you go pulling the dizzy out, make sure you know the rotor buttons position for No. 1 spark plug.

Talking about all things rolla My new toy ke30 2 speed auto.Now i have a reason to be a turtle at the lights :P Lets just say its an early Christmas present ;) and that i have to do something with the '55 (aka "project wreck") thats sitting in the garage

Nar, bugger that for the win

Phuckin facebook, their Zynga Game Network and indirectly Paypal. The girlfriend uses facebook not too chuffed about it, even so often it likes to change firefox's screen size. It bugs me but oh well i just re-set the screen back again. Zynga Game Network is what shut me - How the phuck can a person stare at a computer screen hours on end playing "farmtown", "Cafe world" and a stupid aquarium is really beyond me - Jumped on to my email sunday morning to check for messages and there was three messages from my paypal account telling me that my credit card has been charged three times a nice grand total of 650 United States of American't phuckin dollars. The ol' heart did a nice little restart when i noticed after each transaction there was a "transaction cancelled" message. And then it stopped again when i noticed after the second round of messages and nice message from paypal telling me that i was approved in upgrading my account to "premier". My paypal account has now been limited/locked and it seams like there is no way of downgrading my account back to personal

Nar bugger that. Set up a production line for a monthly turn over Don't want to flood the market.... Now just have to find, oh, urm :D 18 willing ladies

T-18 steering arms fit, so do AE86 and also some Celica's not too sure what models but. My guess would be if it uses a 51mm shock absorber (T6?) it'd be ok, just would have to much sure it uses the same ball joints. With the arms my pick of the lot would be the AE86 that run power steering - the arms are a little shorter, quicker steering.

Sounds all well and good having a name and shame, i like the idea, but then there's the legal reasons why it shouldn't be done and i don't really believe that irokin would really enjoy the whole idea of being sued for it

Man thats just wrong

Face fungus :D Its pissing me off to no end :| Oh hail to the great Gillette god of razor blades that Movember has finished :bash:

My opinion is to try it with and without for the rear swaybar. But have a look under a later '55 and see how the bar is fitted up - i think how the factory did it was a lot better then the aftermarket style

+1 on that. If you don't know what it looks like, have a look at the carby and you'll see a pair of wires hanging off a cylinder looking thingy and thats your "idle cut off solenoid" and if its not that then its a carby issue as altezzaclub and Felix said If its anything to do with your thumping stereo the red alternator light will start coming on and when the car dies it take a bit more then a click of the key to re-start

I'm pretty sure there's a thread or two on the 'rona struts floating on the forum somewhere. T-18 struts are just about a bolt in fit - have to use the steering arm from either the t-18, 'rona or celica(?) and the ke35 top hat (the part of the strut that bolts to the body of the car). And they take the same shock absorber as the 'rona (51mm dia)

Just something worth noting is that you'll mostly be dealing in metric sizes so apart from a few odd balls imperial stuff would be a waste of space and money. Socket sets - 1/2in drive and a 3/8in drive, i do have a 1/4in drive around somewhere but i've used that much i wouldn't have a clue if its here at home or at my parents place. I just use a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter if i ever need a 1/4in drive for my 8mm socket..... While on the thing of sockets like for the ones that grip the sides of the nut and not the corners - less chance of rounding the head off and if you do Kincromes new "Loc-On" sockets are f@$kin amazing. We have a demo set at work and these are the only sockets that still grip on a 85% rounded nut. Metrinch even slips. If you have the money go for the tool chest/box with a good wide selection of tools. If you don't then start with a screwdriver set and a 1/2in drive socket set and grow to a set of spanners yadda yadda and after a while you'll also find that you'll be needing something that'll give leverage so go for a nice long 1/2in breaker bar. and if your doing it that way a Sizecatcher would be a pretty useful thing to have in the box it'll make that planning ahead so much easier.. Timing light - go for one that runs off the battery and uses a clamp to fit to the ignition lead Dwell meter - haven't used one for years - have one at home here but i wouldn't even have a clue on what it looks like any more.. Compression tester - get a screw in type, don't even look at the press in style.

You have PM

An old female "friend" (god bless her dog of a heart) was going to do the conversion till she wrapped the car around a power pole lol From what i know the starfire is either a 186 or 202 but either way it started its life as a 6 and had the front two cylinders cut off (or was it the back) and that means you can pretty well much use every hot up bit the 6 uses. From what the "friend" found out but never got a chance to see is that the 202 will drop straight in without mods. My guess is that the gearbox would be the same one used between the motors - so that'll mean same bolt holes for the bellhousing. See if you can measure from the back of the motor to where the engine mounts are and do the same on the other motor. Wouldn't be surprised if its the same

Nope its factory. I can't really see its previous owner doing anything less then a hack job if they wanted to update the body

Has anybody else heard of this mob Oz Auto Moulds and Rubbers? They have the windscreen rubber for a ke30 http://edgarproduct.com/catalog_details.asp?ProdID=2212 for $82.50 + $12 freight Downside to the place is no earlier ke stuff

Glad you said "basic rule of thumb" Taz cause my square light '55 doesn't have the swaybar and there's no mounting holes for it either, but its a '79 model.

maybe you should have swapped arms for a while or even used both :jamie: