towe001

That was the 4k-e motor that was efi. 5k was carby only

Yes

Thats good to hear mate.

It'd be a '75 or later. It'd have on the build plate which is on the firewall about the middle. Wiring loom - see if you can get one from the same year and drivetrain of your '30. '55 loom could fit but it'd just depend on the fuse box, dash cluster, and a few other incidentals that you may or may not have to modify the connections.

M/T I'd be guessing your car has a Manual Transmission ?

She's such a dirtygirl :P:

Oh shit, what happened ? Both amber and i are hoping everythings ok

Tamiya, "M" and "FF" series. They come in both 1/12 and 1/10 scales. "M - chassis" - http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/category.php?sub-id=36350 "FF - chassis" - http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/category.php?sub-id=36250

Just another typical '70s driver thats all :P

I don't know how i pick them but yeah its an '84 ke70 slant front high top wagon. When i first spotted it for sale way way back in november last year my first thought was that it was the ae71 wagon. But noooo its a ke70 with a 4k and 4speed. Which in a way does make me happy that its not pissant 4a motor.

This funny micro sized pipe seriously needs to be changed Speaker pod is coming along nicely. Was hoping to have a far bit done before tomorrow. but that ain't going to happen.

Step Four Cut the coathanger approximately in the same locations. The bottom half is used, the top half you'll have to hide from the wife. Then the wire is bent into a "V" shape and each end of the wire is inserted into the drilled holes in the bolt. With a bit of bending and twisting to make the handle and to keep bolt in place. Only thing to make sure of is that the bolt can spin with some easy.

Step One Cut the head off the bolt. And use the centre punch to put some dimples into each end of the bolt. Step Two Time to drill a hole at each end of the bolt. Cutting fluid will make it easier on the drill bit - run the bit at a slow speed. All going well you'll end up with a hole at each end.

Put simply i needed a fibreglass roller but i couldn't find one so i made one. Some of the items needed - M12 x 60mm bolt - nut not needed Metal coat hanger Centrepunch Hacksaw Drill bit a little bigger diameter than the coathanger Items not shown - Hammer Drill (Preferably a bench/pedestal drill) Pliers Vice Cutting fluid (not needed but it does much life easier for the drill bit) Edit - Cheers carbonboy for pointing out the drill bit size

I'll match that and raise it with the SsangYong D20DTR at 360 torques @1800rpm

But which one has the more torques ?

My uncle's diabetic and he won't even touch the stuff or any artificial sweeteners for that matter. Its real sugar or nothing for him.

As i found out the hard way one day. Yes, they are needed otherwise the towie will hook the tow line onto anywhere on the vehicle so it can be pulled onto the flatbed. Legal side, i'm not sure. Cause when the vehicle is up on the trailer all thats needed is a couple of loops of rope or chain around the top half of the tires and then tied down. But on saying that it is safer to have the car tied down from the tow hooks. That way the trailers suspension is doing all the work.

Well, that sucks.

Thats pretty :P:

The FAQ link has disappeared on the forum page. Its still there on the main title page. And it seems as if all the pictures in the FAQ have disappeared as well.

Great :( Just had a look at some of the stuff i've put up and the pictures are gone.

Awesome. Using the fibreglass wouldn't make it too heavy, no ?

It'll look better if the back door handles are shaved.

One has a boot lid, the other doesn't One runs a coil spring rear end, the other one uses a leaf spring rear end One can only gain entry via four doors into the cabin of the sedan whereas one can gain entry via five doors into the cabin of the wagon.