Hiro Protagonist

Not ADM models though, they were all smallports. It's the imported AE92 FXGTs/Levins that may still have the bigports.

I'd wager there aren't that many people around competent enough to punt something like that on _tarmac_ at pace, at least not with any sort of consistency and speed.

Small difference? One of the leads has an apparent resistance 1000 times less than the rest......then again, there can be issues out there with leads showing up small resistances to multimeters etc but due to the skin effect they actually have quite large resistances (high voltage current tends to travel in a thin skin around the outside of a conductor) Either way, you ideally should have a full set of leads from the same manufacturer with the same resistance across all of them.

Nope, never once blown more than 0.00 on an RBT. It's common knowledge though these days that the handheld units are not 100% accurate, so if you blow over then you're still not necessarily over, so they take you to the station to do a better more accurate test. The thing is, by the time you get to the station and do the test, if you were borderline before then there is a decent chance you'll blow under at the station and get off scot-free

Still basically the same engine though, just 300cc larger. And just as unlikely to get "amazing" gains from purely changing plug and leads, unless the existing leads are made from string and the plugs are Bic lighters.

You _do_ know that dyno runs can vary by more than that, even back-to-back on the same day. And don't even get me started about different dynos on different days.....

"Way" quicker? What drugs are you smoking/injecting? The amount of power you would gain on a 2AC from high-power plugs and leads is minimal at best, and more likely nothing other than a placebo/+10kw on the clueless-bum-dyno. It's a freaking standard 1.3L SOHC carby 2AC for crying out loud.

Meh, I've had mates who thought the first Corolla was the KE70...

You mean a KE25 :P

Looks like hatch, hard to tell with the angle/distortion of the photo though. But the centre garnish he is also advertising is definitely from the hatch, as the sedan is straight-across both top and bottom whereas the hatch extends out along the bottom edge (the for-sale photo is upside down), plus the sedan has the bulges for the number-plate lights (the hatch has them built into the bumper pointing upwards) For reference: Sedan Hatch

Will be there as part of Toymods.

High idle in A-series engines is commonly caused by an air-bubble in the cooling system getting trapped in the IACV (idle air control valve), which uses coolant temp to melt a wax pellet and close off a valve which drops the idle when the car warms up - if you have an air bubble trapped in there then the wax never melts and the valve stays stuck open on the cold idle setting.

For highlights shows like the WRC there often isn't a set time every week for it, it floats around to fill in gaps between the live broadcasts (which at the moment are usually baseball, F1, and the NFL), so one week it might be at 7:30pm, another at 8pm, and another at 3 in the afternoon

There are inventions called TV Guides which can provide this information for you.

Ch10/ONE have the free-to-air rights to the WRC, they tend to just show the daily highlights packages for the overseas rounds but do a lot more coverage for Rally Australia.

No need to, as the breathalyser reading has to be confirmed back at the station for it to count - so any reading over the limit on the hand-held unit means that they get taken to the station and a proper accurate number generated from the bench-top unit.

The photo has cropped out the "per week"....

You won't find any info because chances are no-one has done it. A 3SFE puts out about 90kw and is a fairly heavy engine, so for that amount of power you might as well just get a smallport or 20v 4AGE. If you do go an S-series engine, then at least go for a 3SGE, and leave the 3SFEs for SV21 Camrys and ST162 ST Celicas.

Hey Hey's not much better. Back in the 80s/90s, maybe, but now it is just painful, and I don't think it's because I've grown up - your classic variety TV show just doesn't work now in an environment where it is rare for the family to sit down and watch the TV together after dinner for some light entertainment.

Surprised that one of the first two is a Toyota, not a 'dore or Falcon. And an MX73 too, was granny doing too many donuts? No real surprises about the R31 though.

The thing to remember is that digital has a very fine tolerance for interference/reception. As signal quality declines, the picture will stay fine up until a point where you start dropping data, and then the picture goes to hell in a handbasket (choppy sound, glitches, pixelisation etc) - analogue on the other hand will experience constant gradual picture loss as quality declines so there is much more tolerance for iffy reception (you just get snow or ghosting etc). Digital is still clearer, and better quality, than your best analogue signal, and will continue to be right up until it falls off a cliff. If your picture drops off from something as simple as a gust of wind, then maybe it is time to invest in a better aerial (times like this I'm glad our place has a 10m tall guyed mast of an aerial).

You're 18, you apparently have enough cash for two houses (no-deposit home-loans don't count), and you want to chuck a stupidly big V8 into a car that weighs the same as a paper towel and has an engine bay smaller than a postage stamp, and do all the work yourself, yet you want to know some "tips" as if you've got no idea where to start...... I thought school holidays were over?

Knox Auto Carpets supposedly do a good product, haven't checked out their Corolla range in a while though.

All oil gets thinner as it warms up. Multigrade oils just don't thin out as much as a comparable straight-weight oil does.

It's a confusing system, I'll give you that. As for the thermoswitch being before the thermostat, like I said before because it opens at a higher temperature than the thermostat (which makes sense, as there is no point having the thermos on if there is no real flow through the radiator) then it can be before or after. As for temp senders sensing inlet or outlet temperatures, it doesn't really matter as long as everything is gauged correctly. Generally inefficiencies in the cooling system come from the radiator itself rather than water galleries etc, so you'll pick up high temps from the radiator not functioning correctly before it goes into the engine rather than waiting for the engine itself to start to overheat (which would soon follow)