Hiro Protagonist

The problem is, you're going to end up with the same amount of extra pipe length (or more) than a FMIC except you won't actually get the benefits of having an intercooler..... To me, it just seems like a lot of wasted effort trying to hide a turbo - if a cop pulls you over and wants to see under the bonnet it will be because he has suspicions that you're running something illegal - with the amount of room in a KE engine bay (and thus easy to see things) it will look quite suss with the intake pipe running up from underneath the car. The only times I've seen rear-mounted turbos used (as was mentioned above) was in cars with ridiculously tight engine bays (and most things covered by plastic anyway), such as an ISF (although in the videos on Youtube of one you an actually make out the turbos sitting where the rear mufflers would be, and thus visible from directly behind the car - ie not stealth at all. Although I must say, here's a car with rear-mounted turbos that I really like (just ignore the fact that the engine is mid/rear mounted too :P)

Reminds me of the 2007 Newcastle/Central Coast floods, although the flooding wasn't as bad as this it was coupled with some pretty wild storms so there was a lot more damage from felled trees/power-lines etc. Parent's place was on the side of a hill so escaped essentially unscathed (lost power for 5 days though so all the food in the fridge/freezers was gone), although even the houses on the hills weren't immune as next door got a river through their house because the water couldn't drain fast enough around the house. Knew plenty of people who lost houses and cars though, including a family whose contents got written off due to flood damage and completely replaced only to have the whole house burn down a few months later because of water damage to the wiring in the roof. Sydney and Newcastle seem to be the main places on the east coast completely unaffected by the current state of weather too.

Whether you have a cat or not shouldn't contribute at all to engine-life etc (only thing it might do is through a CEL if your EFI system is expecting a cat-O2 sensor), no will it give you more power (if anything you'll get a tiny bit more power without the cat due to the lack of restriction). Your emissions will be up shit-creek on unleaded without one, but there is NO impact whatsoever on the engine if there isn't a cat (a BLOCKED cat on the other hand can destroy an engine, but for different reasons). Remember that catalytic converters were only introduced for unleaded fuel - you had EFI cars before that running on leaded fuel without catalytic converters.

I'll join the nay-sayers camp and say that it just isn't worth it. In addition, saying that you'll put it before the diff for better response/less lag is laughable - you've still got a good 2-3 metres worth of intake pipe before you even reach the engine bay, so 50cm less isn't going to improve things greatly.

That's because it's 202 minutes, almost 3 1/2 hours long :P You're missing the last 22 minutes :P

As usual, why would you? Despite what many people try to argue, tuning twin carbies and keeping them in tune will never be as easy, reliable or powerful as a proper EFI setup, especially for a more modern engine like the 4AFE which already has EFI in the first place. By the time you figure in the cost of the carbies, the adaptor manifold, tuning, something to control ignition and the like, you might as well have just spent the money on a decent piggyback computer and a couple of hours tuning on the dyno and be done with it.

Figured, it was the first thing that popped into my head when I saw the thread...

JP's old one?

I've had the Bosch equivalent ones on the 102 for more than a year now, overdue for a change but they're definitely worth it, the improvement was instant, heaps better than the old 4-point ones.

Which is often why they ask "have you had any drinks in the last 15 minutes" or the like, to make sure that everything has been absorbed into your system and a breath test isn't going to be contaminated with fumes still in your mouth/throat.

Christmas (or summer-time in general) for me equals: Beer: Miller Chill - tonnes better than Corona and lemon/lime, usually cheaper too. One of the few mass-market American beers that is half decent (most of their boutique/microbrew stuff is pretty good thoug) Post-mix spirits - Captain Morgan or Southern Comfort, both with coke.\ Pre-mix spirits - Southern Comfort & Cola, can drink all day long, as opposed to JB or Woodstock which start to taste funny after about the 3rd one.

AUs are alright-looking as long as they're not a Series 1 Forte with the baleen-whale grille, or the XRs with the stupid quad-lights.

Hard to tell if you're being sarcastic or not, but I was simply pointing out that the everyday run-of-the-mill Corollas (except for some select model specs) have been built/assembled in Aus since the late 1960s. However, as far as parts go there was a lot of imported components (brakes/suspension/diffs being the big ticket items) up until the KE30/KE55 series, at which point there started to be locally sourced components added instead - so on KE30s you might get the Japanese Sumitomo brakes whereas on the KE55s you'd get the local Girlocks - diffs you'd have the Japanese Banjo diff or the Australian-sourced Borg-Warner. Transmissions you might get the Japanese Toyoglide or the local Trimatic. In reference to your last line, yes, AMI (Australian Motor Industries) assembled AMCs/Ramblers, Triumphs and Toyotas imported in CKD (Complete Knock Down) and SKD (Semi Knock Down) kit form in the 60s and 70s - Toyota had a controlling interest though and it became a dedicated Toyota assembly line in the late 70s/early 80s. If you look at the models/products which were assembled over thsoe years, a significant amount of local content were incorporated into the models for tax/tariff reasons - the bodyshells and engines etc would still come from Japan or the US but you'd get locally sourced components too.

It's only the parts that are imported though :P Both the cars are going to be Australian-made/assembled.

If you're going to use a thermo fan, you might as well use a thermo switch and let it take care of itself, the wiring is no harder and it removes the need to manually turn the fan on and off yourself (because there will be a time that you forget and by the time you realise it you've cooked the engine).

And that's saying something, since the Soarer is already big on the outside and the Celica small on the inside (we own both so can do back-to-back comparisons :P)

A 7AGE is a hybrid (as in bits of differente engines, not petrol-electric :P) engine with the block of a 7AFE ad the head from a 4AGE. They aren't a factory engine, and as such you won't "find" them in anything in particular, and they are as rare as any other hybrid engine (maybe a bit more common though). Don't bother trying to find one, just make one yourself, there are plenty of threads around detailing what they are and how to build them.

As was AE101.

Exactly - the area approaches that of the circle but the perimeter never will. People get confused with things like this because they don't understand how limit functions work...

I have facebook and I'm not even going to bother trying to look at it, it sounds stupid, childish and illegal.

3SFE has same bore and stroke as the 3SGE though, and is square :P

First rule of engine conversions - use an engine that is suitable, not just because it was the only one you could find or it just happened to be laying around. In most cases you'd be better off spending the money to fix and improve whatever engine is currently in there rather than spending thousands on custom work just to make the new one fit, with minimal gains in the end. S-series engines can be a bugger to convert to rear-wheel drive, plus there is next to no aftermarket stuff out there for them because everyone just uses the 3SGE and GTE anyway if they want a performance S-series.

Not to play devil's advocate or anything, but have you actually had problems with overheating when visiting these 55 degree places? Cooling systems for stock cars are usually more than sufficient, so unless you plan to work it or it has been overheating on these previous trips, I wouldn't worry about it too much (or see how much difference an extra thermofan makes, along with proper shrouding, it could make more than enough change to keep things cool).

That's me to a T... Doesn't help that I haven't had a KE in about 2 and a half years, and none of the other cars have been enough of a project to make an on-going mods thread worthwhile, they're more "I drive this, here are some pretty photos" then two weeks later "this has broken, got it fixed", followed by a bunch of tumbleweeds.

You can still get windage though, especially at high rpm...