Hiro Protagonist

Should be there with both the AE102 and the JZZ30

You do know that dynos (unless they are engine dynos) measure power at the wheels, which will always be less than power at the flywheel (which is what factory figures will quote) due to drivetrain losses etc....so 180HP at the wheels might be 220HP at the flywheel.

Better re-think then... Tomei SR22 Stroker kit

Umm, the SR22VE is an aftermarket stroker kit I believe, not a factory engine....methinks you're thinking of the SR20VET. That, and the OP is after a Toyota engine.

Glenn (Celica_RA45) on Toymods is getting ~190kw at the wheels out of an NA 3SGE BEAMS, so it is an option (not directly out of the box though, requires a fair bit of work to get to that level) I don't think Australian 2ZZs suffered most of the problems that occured elsewhere either (the oil pump gears was mostly earlier models I believe in the US).

Funnily enough, I know the guy (he's a Toymods member). Great guy, knows his stuff (except navigation :P), and has a true passion for his car, unlike some of the other efforts you see around.

Well, eventually got the shits with the halos and decided it was time for some fresh eyes - there are only so many times you can re-wire burnt-out low beams before you run out of patience, ring terminals, and wire. Decided to go back to combined low/hi beams, really liked the look of the BZ Touring-style headlights but didn't want the hassle of re-wiring to suit the JDM layout (parkers in the main unit, side indicators where the ADM parkers sit, no guard repeaters). Eventually just bit the bullet and bought some off eBay (copies, but decent quality by the looks of them), under the impression that I'd just run the clear side parkers from the halos until I could re-wire them as indicators....only to find out that the halo parkers wouldn't line up with the BZ main units. Bugger.....hang on, looks like my original OEM parkers do line up though :D Sure, I can slum it for a while, but it is better than nothing. This feeling was then made better by the fact that what I thought were amber lenses in the side indicators/parkers turned out to be crystal lenses with amber bulbs :D So I ripped out the amber bulbs and put in some clear ones, only to find out that the plug was different/bigger compared to the OEM parker plug....bugger.....hang on, they look similar to the OEM bumper indicator plugs....no, change that IDENTICAL to the OEM bumper plugs. So I put the OEM parkers back in for a few days until I could make it to the wreckers (this afternoon) to grab the front indicator loom and gut it for the plugs. Which I did. Unfortunately it got dark before I could take photos, but for the first time in probably 4 years I've got headlights that I can use with confidence at night and actually see things without resorting to the high beams (which were capable of killing low flying birds and possums at the top of power poles at the other end of the street). Parkers are now substantially stronger and better spread too (the benefit of going from a 5W T10 to 21W T20 bulb). Managed to get some photos with just the main units in earlier in the week, I'll get some decent shots of the whole front end at Bathurst on Sunday. After that, all I need to do is paint my open-mouth OEM grille black (had to use the black slat OEM grille in the meantime, and I don't particularly care for the import grille that came with the lights), wire up the foglights, and my FX front end will be complete :D

Make sure your ISCV is plugged in properly too, and getting proper voltage at the pins I had a similar problem on my 7AFE a few years ago (resulted in inadvertant stalling and several sets of traffic lights, amongst other things like a lumpy unstable idle that was sometimes high and sometimes very low), fiddled around with the plug and never had a problem since.

Opeth 'Nuff said...

Ahh so it's the last of the AE9Xs (1994 was the changeover year). Pretty much all the info still applies though, the 9Xs are a good chassis but were getting long in the tooth by the mid 90s, build quality isn't as good as the AE10Xs either.

WMMH: playing with my Galaxy S2 that I got on the weekend.....sooooo much faster than my old i8910 HD

I'd actually go 2.25", especially if you don't get mandrel bends. The biggest restriction in the exhaust is where it flatterns out over the front cross-member, the rest of the exhaust apart from the crappy cast manifold is reasonable and won't net you much power gains (more noise). Definitely go down the handling route, since it's a 94 I assume it's an AE102? If so you've got one of the best Corolla chassis ever made, responds really well to handling mods like struts/lowered springs and sway bars. Stock brakes are more than fine (maybe just upgrade the pads), the brakes themselves are as big or bigger than AE93 SX brakes and the car doesn't really weigh any more so no real need for improvement unless you plan on going to track days. At the end of the day you're not likely to get much more power than a relatively stock healthy bigport 4AGE or tired smallport unless you spend big dollars on head work, aftermarket ECU/injection and/or turbo, so make the most of what you have and save the real coin for a car that actually has off-the-shelf performance parts :P

Was absolutely freezing the night we went up there for the TOCAU Annual meet on the long weekend, at least the cold was keeping me awake (made it to Jollys at about 11pm, which was 23 hours after I left home that morning to drive up there...

Actually HKS, and it was a combination of a 4AGE block/head (with mods) and a stroker kit.

AE82 Twincams (like all of the rear disc AE Corollas) use the caliper as the handbrake, no internal drum here...

Hotdogs are generally straight-through resonators, not proper mufflers. You will still need some kind of proper muffler to get even remotely close to legal noise levels

Before (much before, but closed shot as far as alignment is concerned) After To quote Borat:

Ditto isn't a "l33t" term, it has been around for hundreds of years and is a recognised term (most likely stemming from Latin or Italian).

WMMH - this :D

Before After :D Fitment to hopefully happen this weekend, missing a few bolts/screws here and there so going to have to track them down somehow, and I'll leave the foglights not hooked up for now, probably won't have time for that before the long weekend. Still, progress is progress :)

Location might help.....

That's not a 1GGTE though, that's a 1GFE :P

Yeah 205/40/17 is a shitty size to run (same with 205/45/16), most of the good tyres come in it but they're always heaps more expensive, makes me sad when we were shopping around for tyres on the JZZ30 and were able to get 235/40/18 KU36s for $280 each, courtesy of the fact that it is a standard Falcon XR6/8 size...

After spending $250 a corner for the last two sets, I'm looking for something a little cheaper :P Still want something good though, so eyeing up Kumho KU31s at the moment (about $155 a corner), might depend on how much RE001s have come down in price too now that the RE002 is out.

So, after months, nay years of mucking around, dilly-dallying, time-wasting, putting it off, finding time, making excuses and general cocking about, my FXGT front bar is finally in the paintshop turning white New wheels should be meeting new tyres in the next 2 weeks or so too, so finally some progress.....