Hiro Protagonist

WGMG - looking everywhere for a full set of AE101 Levin seats, finding a cheap set in Brisbane, then asking a guy who was doing a trailer run from Sydney to Brisbane to pick them up for me, he then proceeds to not inform me of the date he was making the trip until the day before, then buys them out from under me (I hadn't deposited the money by that stage because it was unsure whether the seats would fit in the trailer etc), PM me with "sorry mate you missed out" (nothing more), then when the deal gets out in the open and the shitstorm on the forum starts he offers to sell them back to me, yet after I sent him a message attempting to arrange a pickup he hasn't been online in a week.

Ahh the good old 2C diesel.....and just to make it lamer, they didn't even bother slapping a turbo on it for us. Sucks that most of the 4WD import sedans (as rare as they are) that you see are the diesel versions too

Everyone was referring to the fact that the photos he posted clearly showed a silvertop 4AGE, which is a 1.6L engine, not a 2.0L as stated. A lot of people who aren't in the know about Toyota engines think that the silvertop and blacktop 4AGEs are 2.0L because they have the words TWINCAM 20 on the cam-cover, but that is actually a reference to the number of valves (20-valve, 5 valves per cylinder) not the engine capacity.

For the amount of effort, why not just skim the head instead for compression gain?

What do you mean by "centre nut" and "recessed", from the above photos you can see that there are only 4 nuts per cam cover and none of them are in the "centre" nor are they recessed. Sure you're not trying to remove something that you shouldn't be? Pictures always help

ADM ones had the 1.3L 2AC standard, 1.5L 3A was for the AL25 Tercel wagon etc.

The OP is asking about MA61 wheels, which are 14x7. On a Supra they run something like 225/60, which is way too wide for a KE, so thus why finding particular smaller sizes is important

175 is way too narrow for a 7" wheel. 185 at a minimum, 195 depending on the sidewall height is what I'd recommend

I had 195/65 I think on the KE55, was perfect size although hard to get replacements.

Having seen some AE10x interiors painted silver/white like that, they stand out like dogs balls and aren't much better looking, and doesn't give it a "sporty" look at all. To me, you'd be better doing the dash black to give you more of a sporty look, and somehow change the door-trim patterns (most of the AE10x patterns are ugly-as, even in the "sporty" RVs - I hate the purple/blue/green circle patterns that I have in the Conquest).

Kinda yes, kinda not. The Gregorys manual does not cover the 4AGE/Twincam models, the Ellerys does cover 4AGE but it also does AE92 models as well so most of the information is vague - the Toyota yellow chassis book does cover both 4AGE and 4AC/2AC models but for some reason only lists rear drum brakes (where the ADM Twincam models had rear discs). Basically the Toyota yellow and blue books (chassis and engine) will cover most of what you need, and you either scope out the Ellerys manual for the rear discs or just wing it.

12V, ~1kw starter motor, means you'll be looking at roughly 80A, based off back-of-the-envelope calculations. Which to me would indicate 4 guage (~21mm^2)

Which looks exactly like curly's wagon on here... EDIT found thread http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=15605

Well, the drama is finally over. Taking the typical approach of "it should only take a couple of hours", the suspension has been installed over the grand total of 2 and a half days :lol: Things got off to a great start when I realised that my breaker bar was 1/2" drive but the 19 and 17mm sockets needed for the strut/hub bolts (as they are torqued to high hell) were 3/8" drive......oh well, no real bother as I've got a 1/2"-3/8" drive adaptor. That adaptor lasted all of half a turn before it sheared off - meh, that's Supercheap no-name brand quality for you, the rest of my socket set is high quality so shouldn't fail.....except for my breaker bar, which is also SCA no-name......crap *fingers crossed*. Fortunately, a compromise was achieved by noticing that the impact sockets in my set were all 1/2" drive - excellent. Despite fighting with the strut bolts for a while (like I said, something like 250Nm of torque put on them at the factory and 12 years of time to seize), the fronts were relatively easy to do, and with a pair of spring compressors switching over the strut hats/insulators etc was no big deal, just a big time consumer (note for next time, get rattle gun, air compressor and vice). So that was Saturday. Sunday morning was put aside for the rears, which progressed at a significantly faster rate than the fronts (experience does wonders in these situations, even if it's only one time), partly due to experience and also because I didn't have to fight against the steering lock. RR took maybe an hour to do by itself from start to finish (heaps easier to re-install too because the strut top doesn't rotate, unlike the fronts), but the LR decided to be a bitch and in the process of undo-ing the sway-bar link, I managed to strip the hex on the link ball-joint rod (external screw thread, internal hex so you can lock the ball joint when removing the nut). Crap. Fortunately, I managed to undo the other end of the link and thus remove the strut+link together and try to tackle it in more spacious surrounds. No dice. Trying several different combinations of hex keys, Torx bits, phillips-heads and pliers, I only managed to strip it further. Chances are the initial strip would have prevented me from installing it back on anyway, but at a bare minimum I needed to get it off the strut. As twilight fell, I went "buggerit" and just installed the new LR without the swaybar link, and left it up on the chassis stands whilst I went and mulled over a few beers and dinner. Decided that there was no way around it and would have to get a new link, so left that for this morning So this morning rolled around and I headed out to Toyota to get a new link, but on the way decided that they'd rip me off too much for a new one (and probably wouldn't be on the shelf anyway) so diverted to the nearest Jap wreckers in town, and 10 minutes and $33 later and lighter, walked out with a replacement link+nuts which were substantially less seized than the one I had. Another 10 minutes of installing link and torquing up wheel nuts, and she was ready for a few laps of the block. First impressions were that the difference wasn't too great, but with a bit more gumption going into off-camber corners and a tightened seat belt (to stop me sliding around the still stock seats) proved that the car sat _much_ flatter through the corners. Grins were had all round, which then turned to groans as the scale of the mess I had left in the garage needing to be tidying up dawned on me (I'm never tidy nor organised when I work on cars). Buggerit, it can sit for a while whilst I knock back a few brewskis and be happy with the car again for the 3rd time in as many weeks. So thats the saga of how after 5-odd years of AE102 ownership, and much bugging from Davo et al, has lead to me finally getting suspension installed. Some pictures may follow, but everyone knows what springs/shocks look like and stupid net is capped at the moment so suffer in your jocks and just imagine what things look like :osama:

There is nothing wrong with the mufflers you have or their quality, it's just that they probably aren't the right ones for your car and liking. 2 straight-through mufflers will be quite loud (and not very muffled :lol:), straight-throughs tend to get put on turbo cars because the turbo itself acts as a very good muffler so the rest of the system doesn't have to do as much muffling work.

WGMG - stripping the internal hex on a ball-joint on the rear swaybar link on the AE102 whilst putting the suspension in over the weekend - now have to go hope that the wreckers have one lying around because I don't particularly feel like forking out excessive dollars for a genuine new replacement (who would have thought a 10cm long piece of stamped metal with two small threaded ball-joints could be so expensive)

A resonator is not a muffler - as a general rule a muffler "muffles" the exhaut noise over the entire rev range, whilst a resonator cancels out specific resonant frequencies which are present at particular loads/revs. A muffler does little to combat resonance, and a resonator does little to muffle the exhaust. A good exhaust system should have both.

Who says it's alcoholic? Could be a fancy mineral water/lemonade-type thing that also comes in glass bottles.

Well it does say what it is in my signature :y:

Fixed :y: Big difference.

Unfortunately touge runs aren't what most people see as drifting these days. To the average punter, drifting is getting the arse end of your VL sideways around the roundabout after you've welded the diff and put stockies on the rear, plus put two burly mates in the rear for weight distribution. The professionals just replace the VL with an S13, the roundabout with one or two corners of a boring unknown racetrack in the middle of woop-woop (never been a big Mallala or Winton fan myself), and taken the mates out of the rear.

Lets see, thats say $1000 for a KE70, +$200 for the Weber (I doubt it has more than one), -$200 for the no rear springs and -$200 for the cut front springs (big alarm bells there), -$100 for the locked diff (another alarm bell), +$100 for the 5-speed box (nowhere near as rare in a KE70 as they are in earlier models), +$50 for the clutch and +$500 for the rego (although I'd be asking how it managed to get that rego with a locked diff and no springs), -$200 for the body (sounds like it's nothing special, thus not really worth worrying about). Surprisingly enough that comes out at $1150, which is about $1200 more than what I'd pay for it. I would be staying well clear of it as it sounds like it has lead an abused and dodgy life.

The original poster didn't have a GZE, he had just a normal 4AGE, which is what this whole discussion thread has been based around. Still, most of the things mentioned would apply to yours as well. And engine weights are highly dubious unless you do them yourself, you'll find 10 different weights online because some people measure with gearbox, without gearbox, with manifolds, ancilliaries (p/s, aircon, alternator etc), without blah blah blah.

The V6 gearbox is a _lot_ heavier than a 4AGE gearbox though.....and whilst yes the MZ block is alloy whilst the 4AGE block is cast iron, the heads are both alloy and the V6 has twice as many heads, camshafts, cam gears, and 50% more rods, pistons, valves etc, which all adds up.

_Should_ do, they use the same bolt-pattern as 4AGEs so I can't see any problem there. More likely to have problems with the clutch/flywheel (but they shouldn't be too major), and you'd have to make sure you got the right T50 though of course.