Hiro Protagonist

Generally all remote-mounted batteries have to be in sealed containers with a vent to the outside of the car, so the possibility of fuel vapour and sparks combining is next to none. Surge tanks etc too can't be mounted in the passenger space (not a problem with the AE71 as it's not a liftback etc) but I'd also be running vent lines etc. Thing to remember, pre-KE70 Corollas had the entire fuel tank IN the boot, with just a sheet of fibreboard separating (not sealing) it from the normal boot space.

Always wondered what that bent piece was for.....

But a 4-cylinder engine has 4 in a row, not two.....unless you have something like a Ford Taunus or Lancia Fulvia

I really do need to take some better photos of my car, maybe once I get the suspension in on the weekend I'll take both it and the ST162 for a decent photoshoot, weather-depending

So you want a locked/spool diff in a FWD car??? Why the hell would you do that? Even on a speedway track that is excessive, as LRS said you will have severe trouble steering, you'll be lighting up the inside wheel every corner and that's a fast way to understeer city. A normal viscous LSD will be more than enough, especially if the engine is going to stay relative stock (and if it's a blacktop then it's a good chance you've got an LSD already). And if it is a blacktop, then it will be out of an AE111 Trueno/Levin, the AE101 had the silvertop or the GZE.

So is it going to be a FWD or RWD car? If it's RWD then the standard gearbox is useless.

No love for AE101/102s? and a KE55 thrown in for free :bash:

Yes, the V6 VZV21s were a 2.5L 2VZ engine, but the car was designed to take a V6 from factory so that means that the engine bay is designed for it. The AE92 was not designed for a V6, and thus it will be very difficult to fit one, especially a big wide OHC V6 that Toyota love to make. As for the Mazdas, once again you have a car designed to take a V6 from factory (albeit a quite compact V6). Fitting a larger capacity V6 in the place of a smaller one (especially since often the overall dimensions of the engine don't change, just bore/stroke) is much easier than fitting a V6 in place of a 4-cylinder especially in a car which is 4-cylinder exclusive.

Current Corollas are _significantly_ larger than AE92s. I remember seeing a comparo where the current ZRE152 was larger in just about every critical dimension (length, width, height, weight etc) than an SV21 Camry, which was around at the same time as the AE92 Corollas.

So? The regulations are based around vehicle mass and engine capacity, not power/weight. Take a look at the RTA Light Vehicle Modification guidelines and that'll tell you exactly how big an engine you can fit etc.

Unfortunately man-boobs don't share the same success-rate as the female kind do.

How the hell is it a knockoff of the Slant 6??? First, it slants the _other_ way, it has 4 cylinders not 6, the Slant 6 has the intake and exhaust on the "up" side whereas the K has them on the "down" side, and I'm sure there are plenty of other differences... Only Toyota engine I know of that's not really a Toyota engine is the original Landcruiser F engine, which was based on the 228ci GMC L6 (Toyota gained the design after the war ended).

Have you had a look at how small an AE92 engine bay is? Try and imagine where the heads would sit, and you'll see that you'll run into a lot of interference problems with radiator and firewall, maybe not with the heads themselves but the exhaust and other ancillaries definitely. Plus they're a lot of weight for arguably not much more power than you'll get out of a decent 4AGZE/GTE conversion. The gearbox would probably be the least of your worries, because 1MZ and 3VZ Toyota V6s out of the Camry use an E-series gearbox, same series as the 4AGZE. Still, I recommend you do a _lot_ more research before even considering this. I have not seen a single V6 AE92 ever, and I think that is a good commentary on why it hasn't been done before. Even 3S conversions are rare because of how difficult and heavy they are, and that's only for a 2.0L 4-cylinder engine.

Because the Corolla weighs probably 300-500kg less than the R31, you'll have a great lump of weight sitting over the front wheels which means less traction at the rear unless you fit fat tyres, and the handling prowess of a pregnant blue whale. As a burnout or drag car it might be alright, but as anything else it will be a lump of shite.

Sam used to have those plates on his R33 sedan, pretty sure he transferred them over to his MR2 and then the R33 coupe....but then again, they're NSW plates and I'm guessing you saw Vic plates.

If it's a late-model 4AFE, then the heads are identical, thus no gains possible. Might as well just put the whole 7AFE in anyway

Most likely it will be 5x114.3, which is the same as Falcons (but offset will likely differ, you'd be best looking at pre-AU for the right size)

30-year old car, 2-speed automatic, 1.3L asthmatic pushrod carby engine, of course you're going to get "crap" consumption. Driving styles have changed a heck of a lot since the 70s, back then you could drive at a leasurely pace but now you have to flog the crap out of it just to keep up with normal everyday traffic. Old cars only have good fuel consumption if you drive them like old cars.

My 7A clicked over 313000km this morning taking the g/f to work, still has never had the head removed or any major work done on stock engine components bar scheduled servicing, and still goes strong. Doesn't leak coolant, doesn't leak oil, no rattles or grinding noises from the engine, only thing that might give you the idea that it's done that many k's is the oil consumption, which is typical of A-series engines of that age (oil changes are needed every 5000km instead of 10)

In all the Toyotas I've looked at, they've had negative-switched headlights - ie there is power constantly supplied to the lights and you supply a ground to the one you want to turn on, which means that the earth has to pass through the switch.

Most likely a gauge problem, KE dashes are renowned for showing false readings on fuel and water temp, especially the fuel gauge (although that's usually the sender actually)

Unless they're posting up raw images straight from the camera, in which case each photo will be in excess of say 2-3mb, and still has to load fully before cropping/resizing. I remember a few times on dialup that the photos would start to load full-size, so I'd skip down further and continue reading, then the photos would finish loading and then scale down causing the page to scroll massively downwards. Personally I downscale to 1024x768, then upload them, so they're still a decent size but not too large, and if anyone wants high-res I've got the originals on disk.

Considering the multiple posts, I'm betting on spam-bot, or at least spammer.

"Nippon Denso Electronic Type There are 2 types, 5K internal ignitor and 4K external ignitor." Except you can also get 4KEU internal igniter ones (I had one on my KE55)

I think it's quite comical that everyone is trusting their fuel gauges in a KE.....mine would never go above 3/4 on an absolute brimming full tank, then after about 100km it would drop to zero and stay there. I know 50L is the full tank size because I've ran out of petrol twice in the KE55, and each time after 5L from a jerry can to get to the nearest servo it took just under 45L to fill completely.