ke35 dan

No it is 110mm longer then standard ke35 I removed 50mm from the long Axel side and 60mm from the short Axel side, that moves the centre of the diff closer to the centre of the car. Hope this helps

Thanks guys, there's nothing wrong with the small port, it just didn't come with an ecu . I just have a complete b/p ecu and loom & a 20v silvertop loom & ecu, between the 2 I can match up all the s/p plugs. But all good I'll just keep looking for a s/p ecu and uncut loom. Thanks again fellas, I'll clean up the spaghetti of wires next to the rolla now.

So no one on here has ever done either of these mods? I mite just get a microtech then

Hay, so I've got a small port 4age in my 35, but just picked up a bigport head and ecu for a case of beer. Has anyone run a small port engine on a bigport ecu before, also somewhere on here I've seen someone running a set of bigport cams in a small port, are the bigport cams better? Thanks in advance, dan

I've got a pbr booster and master on my ke55 donar car I'm willing to part with. the car stoped awesome when I drove it home, I wanted to put it in my ke35 but it was to big with the 4age inlet manifold. $100 for both

Thanks mate good point, I'll wait till the diff is finished then take my own measurement

sorry don't know why i wrote 'axle' lengths in the title meant to say tailshaft lengths

does anyone have this setup in there ke35 coupe? if so can i please get the flange to flange measurement so i can order my new axle

I can get you a shorten r31 diff with all new bearings and seals all you'll need to do is get someone to weld on your leaf spring mounts, $600 + freight or I could even get the brakes refurbished for more, I'll have to check the price of the brake kit

r31 skyline is a good option and has the same stud pattern, if your willing to get it shortened, early hilx, rn2x series is a good fit just need to up grade the brakes to discs and change the stud pattern. also a T series toyota diff is a good option too. all these diffs are good for a 4age just depends on budget and skill level

u can retro fit your tops to 86 struts or just go cusco adjustable ones

ebay or your local toyota dealer i got a new set for my 35 from toyota and have seen them on ebay

Thanks for the advise tojo2, I'll look into one. The slave cylinder does return to resting place (after I push it back) ok the fork seems loose like the Bering isn't making contact with the pressure plate? Basically after I bled the clutch system after I got peddle feel, next time I pushed it in, it went hard then when I checked under the car the rod from the slave cyl was all the way out and the fork was hard up (like hit the fly wheel hard up) so I decompressed the slave cyl by hand and can move the fork back and forth easily by hand with no résistance. I'm pretty sure the fork is out of one of the donar cars a fwd 4age rolla, "maybe the rwd t50 fork is longer" maybe the clutch is wrong I don't know. But the hydrolic system seems to be working fine

Ke30-35 lcas are the same length of corona ones I bought xt130 ones for my ke35 just to find out they were the same size there are few guys selling or wreaking the ke3xs one here look them up, I've still got one of the lcas here if u pay post ill send it to u if u want see if u like the look or fit Dan

Try google images ,4age itbs and see how everyone else has done it I'm pretty sure if your cable is the right length it will be as simple as threading the cable onto the throttle and modify a bracket to hold it In the right position

So I have finally finished the front end of my ke35, kit includes xt130 coil overs pug/hilux brake upgrade 4age small port and brand new (full recondition never been spun) t50 split case. Here's a list of what I'm stuck on at the moment, I need to know what clutch fork, throw out Bering and clutch to use as my hydrolic clutch system seems to work but the clutch fork wont return after decompression , it feels like I didn't even put a clutch in it. I need a tail shaft? Custom maybe and a diff. there are so many different options out the , and I just need something that can handle a stock 4age and have brakes that can keep up with the front setup. Is was just gunna get a complete custom one made up for about $4000 but a job change and Circumstances mean that poor old rolla has gone from street machine to budget build of the year. I know there are a lot of you out there who have built the exact car I'm trying too so plz anything to help me get this thing on the road faster would be much appreciated. Thanks Dan

hay mate, i did the rather expensive and tricky, xt130, coilover, pug hilux, coilover and brake upgrade in my 35 coupe, and just the other day saw a 300kw atw ke30 and he just had a simple pedders upgrade at all fours and had no complaints. I'm just saying don't run to the flashy stuff before looking into the easy way first, like i did

i've got a set of lowerd king springs brand new never used if u want $100

Yeah there definitely pug rotas they still got writing on them from the machine shop when they were machined down. Where would I get my hands on some NCRCA's

Just pulled out the "xt130 lca" and put it next to the ke35 lca that I've ground down, and they look the same size? Aren't xt130 LCA's ment to be longer. I bought these off a guy here on rolla club. There isn't a backing plate on the rota, its the disc that is hard up against the lca, to a point where I wouldn't try thread a bolt through

So the xt130 LCA's showed up yesterday. The rota still fouls on the lca the only difference is the now ridiculous angle of the lower ball joint. And thats with the adjustable camber tops. I think offset steering arms will be the next option

Hay guys I need some help ive got 3 engines here and I want to know should I build a hybrid engine or stick with just one? The 20v is complete but seized, the bigport looks to be the cleanest but is in fwd configuration (its for my rwd ke35) and the rwd small port engine looks to be in running condition but very tired. Any suggestions would be great, as I have to many options and don't wanna regret it

Thanks guys. I agree, I didnt want to mod the control arm. And regretted it straight after I did it. Are the 40mm rca's to big? It seems the further away the control arm is from the base of the strut the worse the problem is

Thanks mate. Ill look into xt130 LCA's and steering arms. Sorry to noob it up but what are NCRCA's?