Felix

an update on that: i had a tapping rattly noise. thought it was timing chain or something. i pulled the rocker cover and there is 8 little shiny spots where the adjusters have been touching. i got my moto tool and ground the ribbing under the rocker cover back where the shiny spots were. after i cleaned it all up i sprayed a bit of paint under it to make it easier to see if there is still any contact in future. thinking if i have any more troubles i'll shorten a set of adjusters and recut the screwdriver slots.

yup. the old auto crank won't have one in it.

yes, the seats are simply dropped to the bottom of the lifter. just make sure the pushrods are of the shallow cup type at the top. if you get the deep cup ones you may get binding at full lift. probably not a big deal to trim them down if you need to if you can only source the deep cup ones. as i have said previously, the way mine has been setup, the adjusters have to be backed right off as the 3k pushrods are a touch longer than ideal. this puts the adjusters very close to the valve cover at full lift. i haven't had problems with them tapping on the underside of the rocker cover (my cam is 400 thou lift at the valve), but if you run a higher lift cam you may need to grind a little away in places.

yep, the camcard will give you the info you need. the oil from the topend of the motor drains back down the lifter bores. it should be fine. 4k pushrods are about 10mm longer than the 3k items. i have 3k pushrods with my converted (to solid) hydraulic lifters (5k with 5k head) and they are a touch longer than ideal. i think 4k ones will be too long, unless maybe they come from a dished piston engine. if you run chev lifters i have no idea on what pushrods to use. never tried them. i think the oil hole is just used to keep the hydraulic lifter topped up with oil. i don't really think it is a requirement for a solid lifter.

Fook for sure. :thumbsup: couldn't help myself with the black and white photos. i think it suits it well. maybe i should dig out a set of old chrome hubcaps?

don't mind me.. i just don't like newer cars. you can't work on them and they cost to much for parts. not to mention character, or i should say total lack of it. Peter built his car trailer out of an old caravan chassis. have a chat to him.

and another

i actually had a good monday. i went for a run up to Mt Nebo to see about the future move up there today. i took the long way round through Pine Mountain, Fernvale, between Splityard Creek Dam and Wivenhoe, over Mt Glorious/ Mt Nebo and back again. was an excellent day for it with the damp roads, not many other cars out. i love my little ke15, the new 5k gives heaps of grunt for mountain climbing without having to rev the hell out of it. the yoky A539s are awesome in the wet, they grip like mad, it is like driving in the dry. i have never driven such a small car that feels so connected to the road. i even managed to fade the brakes on the way home down the Glorious descent. no way i would have been game to push that hard pre-yokies. it was a fun day :thumbsup: took a couple of pics at the Wivenhoe lookout up Mt Nebo:

power steering is a good mod for a tonner. add a 1uz-fe.....powered by toyota :thumbsup: (haha stick it up the bogans) easy to get modded as they have a full chassis and some came with 308's standard. guys put 350's (and larger) in them all the time.

how about something like an old holden 1 tonner? you should be able to find one converted to gas pretty easy. heaps of room in the back. one with a canopy would be a bonus as you could secure everything. with a little suspension work they handle quite well. as they are getting old, just look carefully for rust.

shellite is real good. doesn't affect paint.

yup would be a good engine to decompress for forced induction, using an earlier head. attached pic: 4k-u pistons on left, 4k-e on right.

I'm not so sure the "-C" in 4K-C means california emissions. the americans had air injection pumps on their engines. these pump air into the exhaust ports of their engines, to dilute the exhaust gas emissions. we didn't get them on our 4K-C's. their 4K-C is different to our 4K-C.

for a street engine, twin SUs are better. they offer better allround performance and economy. ask Redwarf what sort of fuel economy he gets in normal driving with his webers :jason: i'm sure it is less than he got with his SUs. remember his car is a competition vehicle and not a daily driver. webers are better suited to a race engine, as they are setup to work best over a narrower rpm range than with SUs (choke selection dependent). the SUs due to their CV (constant velocity) design give better throttle response at lower throttle openings. webers generally give an extra few percent power in the topend. SU's give extra power throughout the low to midrange, with better response and economy. think about the sort of driving you do and choose from there.....i know about 90% of my driving is just commuting around town. i have done a lot of research trying to find the difference between a hydraulic and mechanical cam. apparently a mechanical cam has more of a gentler ramp onto the flank of the cam lobes (to take up valve lash) than what a hydraulic cam does. i have read of some people saying it is fine to run a hydraulic cam with solid lifers so long as you have tight valve lash adjustment. some people say you need a new cam........i am going to try this for myself, i'm putting the hydraulic cam that was in my 5k into my old 4k that is going into bec's ke16. i'll tell you how it goes.

hmmm......i should be moving shortly, so i'm not sure if i would be able to do it. i'm moving up to mt nebo....maybe able to host a corolla cruise/BBQ up there.

i run a 5k head, with the rockers and pedestals and shaft from a 4k. running the 3k pushrods (ones with shallow top cup), with my converted lifters, you have to back the adjusters quite a fair way off. the adjusters come very close to the rocker cover but don't hit it. the 4k rockers may fit on a 5k shaft. changing the whole setup straight over is far easier. there are a couple of different types of pedestals out there, steel (earlier) and alloy. they look to be different heights, but the rocker shaft sits at the same height in relation to the top of the head. this was discussed on the oldcorollas group ages ago.

the lifters in my 5k have had the guts ripped out of them. the cup that the pushrod sits in has been dropped to the bottom of the lifter. it runs 3k pushrods and adjustable rocker gear from a 4k.

100-110 km/h?

sounds good to me. nick, you and teddy could always go halves, and take turns on your runs. the stewards would know no better.

i agree Nick a carb rebuild is a good idea. but then i doubt that the mixtures are correct unless the car has been dynoed at some stage. although with Bens sized engine it suits a 32/36 DGV alot better than a 4k so i guess he should be a lot closer to the mark. even then with a carb you will find the mixtures vary with temp and humidity changes, and also with different fuels....you can see this very well with a FMD unit, even though it is only narrow band. really you should ideally rejet a carb a few times a year to suit seasonal changes. Ben, you'd be looking at around $30 for an O2 sensor. the one i got was from an EB falcon, 4 wire type. the heated sensors are good in that you can mount them further back, and give much more consistant readings. you need an M18x1.5 nut to weld on to your exhaust. i ground one down to fit snuggly to my exhaust. i got the exhaust drilled and the nut welded on for $30. could have got it cheaper, but it was a friday arvy and the place i got it done at were the only ones without a few day waiting list. i use a DSE fuel mixture display kit, it spits out A/F mixture ratios. i don't think it is properly calibrated for my sensor. not a big deal as you really only need it for relative mixture tuning. i just went richer and richer and watched the readings until i hit rich misfire and backed off to the sweetspot using a stopwatch and my buttometer. set your idle jets and primary main jet on the leanish side for fuel economy. on the cruise i get readings of between 14.4:1 to 14.7:1. full power rich gave readings of 13.0:1 to 12.8:1. you don't need the FMD kit, just use a multimeter. with a bit of research you will be able to convert the readings to approxiamate A/F mixtures. every engine needs slightly different mixtures to the next anyway. go to a carb shop and aquire some extra jets. i went to Ipswich Carburation Services, and got about a dozen various second hand jets and 2 venturis for my DCD weber for $40. i found with my old warm 4k, and a 32/32 DGV, running a 4.5:1 diff i was getting better fuel economy (once my carb was optimised) than becs ke16 runnning a stock carb on a standard 4k with 4.2:1 diff. the best 0-60 MPH times i got with the 4k in my car was 8.6 secs, becs car running around 12 secs. also my car has way more drivability and responsiveness.

yep, single point. you could always just use it as a throttle body with TPS and install injectors near the head on the inlet manifold ports.

Grimwolge, the Megasquirt sounds good. might have to get an Ultra Megasquirt when they finally come out. injector control, ignition control, and wide band O2 sensor compatible. mmm..... sounds good to me. make it worth the change to proper EFI.

if you wanted to be really cheap you could use the downdraft throttle body and injector setup off of a XE/XF falcon before they went to MPI

off of a hillman imp, converted to EFI. doesn't show the throttle body. another pic:

IDA's would be nice. they outflow DCOE webers. very expensive, the rotary guys want like $750 to a grand for them. the Holley EFI idea sounds good, but would be expensive. you would be better off going to a 3tgte Ben. thought about putting an O2 sensor and an A/F mixture display in your car? makes it way easier to set up a carb. check this out: