Mechanical Sympathy

No worries Paul. Yes if you're going to do a 5K or 7K swap it helps to have the original engine handy to swap the bits over that are Corolla specific. Start a build thread!

Pretty much ought to be a bolt-in proposition with a 4K but there are a few things to note with a 5K. If you source a 5K straight from a van (rather than from someone's Corolla conversion) you'll need to swap a 4K flywheel and clutch onto it because the Lite Ace one fouls (only just! I found out the hard way) on the inside of the bellhousing - or at least it does on a K40, not sure about a K50. Might as well get the flywheel lightened and face-machined while you're at it. Make sure you use a torque-wrench to do the flywheel bolts up to spec! Tight isn't good enough. Oh and you'll need a 3K/4K waterpump if you want to run the original radiator shroud/fan combo. The 5K has a larger diameter clutch fan and so has different mounting holes on the waterpump. I used the Lite Ace clutch fan. It was good! It didn't hit the hoses on a KE35 radiator but a KE10 one might be a problem. Are they narrower? It drew plenty of air at idle but a blip on the throttle would turn it "off" for traffic light derbys. If you go with a 5K you'll need a KE10 water temp sender to get accurate readings. You'll also want to use earlier manifolds to do away with emissions "junque". Though the 5K electronic ignition distributor is a bonus. Can't remember if I had to swap a 4K sump onto the 5K? Or even if they swap over. It was over 10 years ago. Some K engines have a different bolt spacing on the sump. Anyway as I said this was all in a KE35. A KE10 owner might have some more insight.

Oh man, I'd love to get a 2TG in my coupe. Nostalgia for the win.

Check the relay it will say "NC" or "NO" on it somewhere. If you've got the wrong one grab yourself a Gregory's or Haynes service manual for your car when you go back to the shop. They're essential reading for the backyard mechanic!

No I don't reckon that's it. As Reed suggested you may have bought the wrong kind of relay i.e. Normally Closed instead of Normally Open if you've plugged the wiring into like-for-like. Or possibly - if you've run your own wiring (edit: you didn't) or you plugged them in wrong - you may have wired it straight to the battery instead of an "ignition on" circuit.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ I think that's the one that gets referenced the most but I haven't had to use it personally.

You've wired the relay up incorrectly or the relay is faulty. A multimeter and a wiring diagram will help you get to the bottom of it.

You're not doing it right.

Aha! You should get an electric fuel pump on there stat. It may be leaning out when your carby runs out of fuel. The stock mechanical pump doesn't push a lot of volume. You don't need a high pressure pump. A 6 PSI pump would smash it.

Whereas Si's opinion is based on actual experience rather than google-based interwebbing and should be duly considered. Now go outside and post the results!!

Knock it back to 10 or 15 degrees? I've since read (http://www.autospeed....html?&A=109132 ) that 10-15 degrees locked is appropriate for boost on an otherwise stock internals N/A engine. Though every application (and every opinion on the internet) is different I guess. Anyway I'd suggest that now you've locked it, go conservative initially then gradually wind in more advance as power increases until you ping. And how are the gaps on your spark plugs? I think they need to be gapped closer than for a stock N/A engine? I'm hooking up an SC14 blower currently so I'm following your trials with interest.

It's probably fixable Pili - but by the time you take the water pump off and pay to get it TIG welded you might as well put a new one on. Hard luck though.. Spewin'.

+1 for a coupé if you can find one. I like styling elements of the both the KE35 and the KE55 so my work-in-progress has bits of both. Look for a car that's been parked out of the sun and rain and has never been driven by a YOLO!

Si is saying is you shouldn't run it if you haven't had your distributor recurved to suit a boosted application ie more advance at start but less total mech/vacuum advance, otherwise you will blow head gaskets. 25 degrees + 25 advance = 50 degrees which is too much. From what I read on the interwebs you're looking for around 18 to 25 initial +15 advance. Someone might confirm? Alternatively run an MSD 6AL BTM.

Was the car originally K-engined and you've recently put a 2T innit? I had a KE35 that had similar symptoms when I put a 5K in it, but it wasn't obviously running hot. Putting the 3K temp sensor back in fixed it. Alternatively try an aftermarket temp gauge and sensor, or point a laser digital thermometer at it.

You'll have to elaborate Pili bro. What are you driving? Have you upgraded a K-engined vehicle with a later/larger K engine? edit: beaten

In response to the thread title - are you looking to fix the collapsed seats? It's fairly easy to fix... If it's the base you just need to pull it out, flip it over and fix/weld/splice/twist/ziptie the wire mesh. If it's the back you'll have to unstitch/unclip/unzip the seat cover, peel it off and similarly fix the mesh. Otherwise if it's the frame that's broken, sure you might consider some replacements.

I suggest starting on it with coarse and then graduate to finer grades of wet and dry sandpaper then hit it with a Bunnings metal polishing kit and/or a tube of Autosol for some bling.

A set of 4-1 Pacemakers don't have that manifold stove crap either - just saying. I think it's for warming the inlet manifold with warm water from the block during extreme cold weather (like snowing) warm-up. Don't worry about the stove gasket if you block the rest off. And especially don't worry about it if you get Pacemakers.

OK sure battery seems fine then. Get a helper monkey to twist the dizzy slightly while you crank it. And pray the metal tapping sound is nothing! Good luck man, this looks like an excellent set up. We're rooting for you!

Get that battery on charge and then nudge a few (several, like 8) degrees advance on the dizzy. Firing at 0 degrees TDC won't idle well. Then , if you're running points you'll need to reset them too.

Yeah I'm also down for timing being 180 degrees out, even though I'm not some "drawthrough guru". Of course I don't really know - I'm just trying be helpful. But I do have further suggestions as to where one might jamb a garden hose.

Great polishing job. Like night and day. Is it red? Or is it bright brown? Pili bro it's different cause it's a left hooker US model.

Backfiring out the carb - is it possible the distributor is 180 degrees out?

Does a turbo require an oil-feed?