Mechanical Sympathy

Not necessarily. The 3K-B carbs look identical to the standard single carb from the outside - they just have matched diameter butterfly valves inside. Pop your carbs off the twin manifold and take a pic. I'm curious! Though it makes no difference to your air filter requirements.

Jordanrolla has a no cutting policy with his bolt in kits and his post is very informative regarding the issues that arise with each conversion. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/67438-ke-conversions-engine-conversion-kits-ke20-ke30-ke70-ae71-ae86/

That's a nice set. Check if the primaries are the same diameter as the secondaries. If so, you have the original 3K-B twins. Otherwise (if the secondary is larger than the primary) it's two single carbs on a twin carb manifold. I've had a set for 10 years. I'll fit them to a car one day soon (should probably kit them again!) but I need to get a couple of new butterflies fitted. Mine were siezed when I got them and I cracked the butterfly screws out - even though I knew better at the time. Bah. Really should've tried a vineagar bath before I did that...

make sure you do it properly to avoid heat from the fuzz any local spring proprietor should be able to supply what you're looking for or you could buy direct from King Springs check the catalogue is that what you're looking for should look overrated when you're done pics or it didn't happen. http://www.kingsprin...r_catalogue.pdf

I agree it's a shame they're only skinny rims. They'd look great with a negative offset, though prohibitively expensive to get widened. However for the amount of effort required to polish them myself and the level of bling they gave, the $40 per wheel I paid to have them polished to a mirror finish was a good investment I reckon. VHT polyurethane wheel paint in aluminium colour is what I used to paint the triangles and the centres. I love that stuff - use it on everything. Though we can't get it in Australia at the moment. Actually all year. The government had an issue with the formulation but the local distributor assures me it'll be back on the shelves in November. Any more update/repair pics?

I really like the factory alloys you have there. Are they 14 inch rims? They're relatively common here in a 13 inch diameter on KE55 and 70 Corollas (though centre caps aren't common) but 14 inch rims seem harder to find. I think they might've been fitted to Coronas here. I've had a 13 inch set on a KE35 and they came up excellent when I got them professionally polished and repainted the centres. A set of 14's would be nice. Good luck with the paintwork and the project.

It doesn't matter how many splines are on the input shaft of the gearbox that's in your car now, as you are taking that out. I don't have much (any) experience with 4AG's and T50's but I imagine that as long as you get a clutch to match the splines on the input shaft of whatever gearbox you obtain - then you'll be apples. A 5 speed from an AE71 Corolla is likely easier to find than a Celica box.

Have you tried adjusting the idle mixture screw? Is the choke fully open?

Any springworks will do. Just call and tell them what you want to get a quote. Resetting and repacking will be fairly cheap if you have them out of the car already. They just flatten the leaves in a press. Adding an extra leaf will obviously be a little more.

Unless Holden sixes directly bolt up to Toyota gearboxes, I'd say you're out of luck.

Nice sedan. I have a similar one that I've been tinkering with and I was considering using the same carb setup.

Are they original Sprinter twin carbs - with the same diameter primary and secondary valve? Or two x single carbs with the bigger secondaries? Nonetheless there's plenty of overhead with twin Aisans - just whack em on if they've been recently kitted. And take pics!

Old mate in the Feral 4K thread has just put in some big'uns.

Yeah I'd be checking the capacitor. Or more specifically, the wire and connections to it and the points where they pass through the insulator, at the back of the distributor where the cap sits on it - as that's the only thing I can think of that might be affected/wriggled by leaning on the cap.

Reed is correct. Using the EFI set up will require grafting of two wiring looms - which can be quite tricky without diagrams. But of course you wouldn't have to convert to hydraulic clutch, convert an FWD engine to RWD, purchase another gearbox, clutch, tailshaft, modify engine mounts or swap crossmembers and get it engineered.

Do it! Sump likely needs to be cut to clear crossmember. See if you can get the Townace 7K engine mounts too. Because the 7k block is wider, I've read a rumour they fit to the KE crossmember or you have to space something from something with washers. The mounts to the chassis presumably, which I guess must sit the engine higher. Try the 7K mounts instead. Put your old inlet manifold on it, or something better. Get extractors too. And a 1 3/4" exhaust. Get the alternator and starter motor. Get the EFI manifolds, ECU and loom if you're interested in running that or using it for forced induction later. Get the air con bracket if you're thinking of a supercharger. Try get the fan. I had a clutch fan on a 5K and it was awesome for peak hour traffic. Do a build thread and take photos and tell me if I'm wrong, because I want to do one. edit: supercharger bracket

I'm very keen to do a 3RZ or even the VVTi 2TR into a KE55 coupe. I think that would make an excellent street car.

Indeed have you tried re-fitting the original sensor?

Reading through the NCOP this morning has been quite interesting. It seems they are acknowledging that people are carrying out these modifications. There are few things you can't do (within reason), just guidelines for things may/should/must do if you're going to do them. For example I was surprised to read that a 3.6 litre NA engine is fine in a 900kg Corolla assuming all other guidelines are met. Rick your 4AGE or CA18det conversion is certainly certifiable under the provisions in LA2 or LA3. Though I have no idea how that has been working anecdotally and even the guidelines recommend checking with an engineer prior to fabrication.

Is your car auto or manuel? edit: bah!

How's the rear main seal on the engine?

I reckon clean the green and run it for a week or two, reinspect and re-torque - assuming you're not losing heaps of coolant and there's no coolant in your sump and there's no bubbles in your radiator while the engine is running.

Nice seat swap. They look factory!

Yeah araldite won't cut it. You'll need a good superglue/epoxy. Or another knob.

If you're looking to bomb up a second motor rather than the one in the car, get yourself a 5K or 7K as a base. Even a stock 5K will give you at least a 20% increase in usable power & torque - i.e. a very noticeable improvement, plus maybe that again by the time you fit extractors and 1 3/4" exhaust, skim the head, grind a cam and improve carburetion. A stock 7K has nearly 50% more power than a stock 4K. Build it on an engine stand, budget for a bit over 2 grand, drive your car in the meantime and then slip it in over a long weekend. It'll buzz like a rotary and do static one-wheel skids on dry bitumen. Good times! And for the record, my dream engine conversion (weighing up cost/power/potential) would be a 2.7litre Hilux 3RZ and W56 combo. Naturally aspirated would be a kick-arse street car. Turboed and tubbed I'd go racing the X275 boys.