Mechanical Sympathy

Even K engine flywheels got heavier over time as displacement increased and the engines went from powering rorty little lightweight hardtops to more mundane nun cars and work vans.

I don't think it's so much of an issue if you're machining *some weight from a standard flywheel. For example, a Toyota 2TC engine has a flywheel that weighs around 11kg, whereas a 2TG flywheel weighs around 8kg. Both factory flywheels, same bottom end, with no real adverse effects despite the 2TG flywheel being 30% lighter. I think it's when you start getting down to aftermarket aluminium flyhwheels that weigh 3-4kg that driveability problems arise - and you won't machine that much from a standard flywheel

None would fit if there are no holes to mount them to. You should establish that first. If you have holes to mount them then most should fit, because seatbelts are adjustable. However I'll defer to a KE10 owner's experience.

Is the length of the seatbelts the issue? Seatbelts are usually adjustable. I imagine the issue is - does your KE10 have the anchor points for seatbelts? i.e. reinforced bolt holes.

Sure - no kit as such. I just trawled ToyoDIY and ordered bits I reckoned I should replace while I had it all out. My T50 front seal was definitely leaking. It was tricky without diagrams but fingers crossed I've got what I need. 2T sump gasket $17.38 2T exhaust gasket $7.91 2T input shaft bearing $7.65 2T rear main seal $16.48 2T rear main seal retainer gasket $4.80 T50 clutch release bearing $32.82 T50 front oil seal $2.72 T50 front bearing retainer gasket $2.72 (not sure if I need this - haven't replaced a gearbox front seal before) plus $25 delivery for 0.506kg came to $117

Yeah get onto Megat. I've bought a set from him - they're pretty decent for the money. I'm just getting around to fitting them now. Hopefully you have a KE30 two door? They cover the rear door on a sedan. edit: Photos won't upload in portrait on the ibone.

Much excitement to be had!

Coincidentally sitting on the train home right now with a box of 2TG/T50 service parts that came from them today. Excellent service. It all appears to be genuine Toyota parts.

They were fitted to KE55 coupes I believe. You'd want the diff too - for the brackets - and the two chassis brackets.

+1 for different buckets. If you still have all the pieces a cracked grille can be easily glued and look like new with some black and/or silver paint. Mine was busted in a few spots.

Thanks Parrot, that's the number I was using. And thanks for the tip on the gasket library! I'd only selected "General" as the market on Toyodiy. Once I clicked ticked all of the markets I could see 90311-75113 fits KE7#, AE7#, TE7# and CE7# so implies that 2T and 4A are the same. Whereas the part they've offered 90311-75009 is listed for all FWD AE cars = so should be the same. Nonetheless I might just take my shopping list to Repco.

So after trawling Toyodiy for part numbers I submitted an order to Amayama Trading for various seals and gaskets to service my 2TG before I drop it in the '55 XX (mainly precautionary seeing as I have it out anyway) - rear main seal, T50 front seal, matching retainer gaskets, input shaft bearing, clutch release bearing, sump gasket, inlet and exhaust gaskets. I could probably go counter-jockey at Repco for most of the parts - as all those parts bar the inlet manifold gasket are generic to 2T/3T engines, but I wanted a price comparison, enjoy internet shopping and really wanted the aforementioned inlet gasket (which Amayama don't seem to have anyway. gasket paper ftw). Anyway long story short - they've come back with a different part number for the rear main seal. Toyodiy says it's the rear main seal from AE Corollas and EP Starlets and doesn't cross reference to any T engines. Same price though. All up $117 delivered (sans inlet gasket). Do any of you gurus know off hand if the 2T rear main seal in the same as the 4A rear main seal?

From the information you've provided I'd suggest just getting a new one. Cheap insurance.

Is it out of petrol? Can you see fuel in the fuel filter?

You should def check out http://www.3tcgarage.com/ and sign up there. However, and for example http://www.weberperf...products_id=544 have twin weber manifolds. I'm sure you could get something similar in the U.S. Any local camshaft company should be able to regrind you a streetable cam. Headers, cam and carbs should net what you're hoping to acheive.

Another easier option could be a 2TGEU. It would bolt directly to your gearbox and existing engine mounts but they are a bit older than a 4AG and can be hard to find. Rebuilding it with your 3T crank - while not cheap - means it can be bored and stroked to up to ~2.0 litres. Having said that, I believe there are a lot of go-fast parts available for the 3T-C in the US anyway.

When I bought my KE55 sedan the left brake light was jammed in the WRONG way. The light gauge metal socket deflects easily away from the bayonet pins when a bulb is incorrectly inserted. Though not as easily as putting it in properly. Alternatively, if your dash lights come on when you depress the brake pedal it means a single filament bulb has been inserted into the dual filament socket - as was the case with my right hand brake light. Again the socket had deflected away from the bayonet pins. Rule of thumb - don't force it.

Take the right bulb out, turn it 180 degrees and then put it back in.

Booster or master cylinder? If it's the booster just scrounge the wreckers/for sale threads/ebay/gumtree for a 2nd hand one. If it's the master cylinder that sounds expensive. From experience BHSS at Bowen Hills Brisbane do them exchange for around half that and there's an ebay listing for a new one $100.

I think I've seen photos on Fakebook recently of the car undergoing repairs with a new owner. More seems to happen on the Rollaclub Fakebook page lately than on the webpage proper.

Luke if your local authority does not require you to upgrade brakes then maybe reconditioned standard brakes is an option. If they can stop an 850kg car from 100 km/h then they can stop an 870kg car from 100 km/h - maybe two or three times in succession before overheating so don't go circuit racing. Though looking at your master cylinder I would not drive that car until you had reconditioned all your brakes! Otherwise if you can find a 2TG in Malta then I'm sure there must be other Toyotas you can look at for parts - Celica, Carina, Corona, later Corolla - all have adaptable parts that would improve over what you have. Nothing will bolt directly in and you will have to modify.

If you're in Australia (?) and you're going to get your car mod-plated I'd say you're going to have to upgrade your brakes to something equivalent to a 1600cc model, as your engine is over 20% larger and 20% more powerful (and likely more than 20% heavier) than the engine it came with. In Queensland - prior to NCOP rules - a 2TG was easily modplated in a Corolla if you upgraded to TA22 brakes at the same time. That will likely necessitate some vacuum assistance (i.e. a booster) as your brakes appear to be unassisted? Oh I think you also need to run a dual circuit master cylinder for that engine upgrade to be mod-plated. Or you might just get lucky and get a mobile roadworthy fella come out and write down the numbers and bob's your uncle until Mr. Plod has a look under the bonnet.

Worth noting he's in Sri Lanka.

I had a Cosmo injected 12A turbo in an SA22 RX7 that was good for 200hp at the flywheel on 7psi. It was noticeably angrier on 13psi. Incrementally squeezing the throttle in 2nd through the twisty bits on an isolated country road one day, and looking down to see I was doing 9000 rpm before snatching 3rd was a revelatory experience. I think they're getting hard to find everywhere.

Welcome. You'd probably want to do something similar to this member's car. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/46086-ke26-13b-turbo-10-sec-pass-128mph/