flat out

k motors are non crossflow a motors are crossflow

hilux diff ftw, the axles are like as big as a 50c peice. can be cheap, lsd avalible and heaps of centers to chose from

sorry guys just drift just always posts in the wrong place, i have grey carpets, door trims, and parcel shelf, 5" autometer tacho and shift light on the pillar jvc 1700 colour headunit and a turbo timer sing out if you want pics oh and a boags dash mat

very nice AE71 in my opinion i wouldnt go drift pig on it because its too good for that, with those rims it looks vip drifter :P

WHAT THE f@$k why can't you post in the automotive section? omfg

katey g, i always see your car at maccas just didnt know u was from tassie :P oh that reminds me mums there getting my tea now :dance: ill say gday if i ever see you, just look for a shortish fat highscooler!

looks good, mabey abit lower in the front casey

so your selling your ebay gifts? weird what mags are you getting? pics please :P and best wishes for your birthday

I'm having new leaf and swaybar mounts made up, there suposibly not that much wider, i think off the top of my head 9mm-90mm? ebay score man

cheers fellas, hilux diff was brought this morning for a pricey sum of $51 ring the man real soon and should have it by saturday will make a new thread with pics and detailed instructions if any one is keen

omg my car had the identical amount of rust in the same place!

does any one know if 4 runner diffs are the same as hilux? 1988 ish?

we have a cressida as school with a blown head gasket, was donated with a free 7mge :lolcry: were fixing it and selling it. oh btw i made people push me around in it today :lolcry:

saw this in the flesh today, if i found a t18 i would snap it up for sure!

oh i love seeing and hearing about this car, its pure sexyness, what did the strut brace come off or is it a custom job? casey

very nice gav, is it just me or does the rear quater look very ke10 ish?

acording to sean (roids70) there not bb or carbon seal, i will also be going turbo 4k but with sweet sweet 4ke injection gear.

hahahahahahahaha thats awesome ^^^ give me exactly 12 months and ill be ripping up the meets as an L plater woot

from the FAQ. this is for a k motor but you didnt say what engine you was running in There are alot of different ways to run in a motor, and it seems to be a bit of a "black art". The basic things to remember are that a cold engine doesn't wear much, and a hot engine doesn't wear much, but an engine between 20c and 80c does about 90% of its entire wear between these two temperatures as it's warming up. At the start, you want the engine to wear a bit, so the rings bed in and seal properly, and everything frees up and becomes happy with its new surroundings. Some things take a long time to bed in, such as the rings, some things don't take as long. For example, the big end bearings and crank bearings will be worn in the first time you start the motor. Here's how I did mine. The first time I started the engine, I let it idle to operating temperature, giving a few revs a couple of times a minute to keep oil pressure up, then turned it off and let it go dead cold. The next time, I drove the car for about 5 minutes, turned it off and let it go dead cold. The time after that was 10 minutes, then 20 minutes, then half an hour, then an hour, then I didn't worry about temperature cycling it so much. I ran running in oil for the first couple of hundred km or so. This is a fairly thin oil with lots of graphite particles in it. The graphite lubricates the tight metal parts as they try to rub against each other while the clearances are still really small. The oil is thin, so you shouldn't rev too hard with it in, as you can squish thin oil out of the bearing gaps, and the oil can wipe away at high component speed, leaving a fairly bare surface with chunks of graphite and metal on metal which will score surfaces which should be lubricated. After that, I changed the filter and swapped to a straight 30W oil, and kept this for a couple of thousand miles, then renewed the oil and filter with the same, and drove it for another couple thousand miles. I then changed the filter and started off with the 5w synthetic oil, but later changed to the 15w semi-synth as described in the oil section. I tried to keep a sensible but gradually increasing rev ceiling. I took it to 6000rpm on the first day I had it, then 7000rpm on the next day, then I couldn't resist an 8000rpm test run the next day. I didn't flog the arse out of it from then on, but I kept it below 7000rpm until I got rid of the running in oil. Once I'd changed to the synth oil, I was pretty confident the motor was going to hold together, so 8000rpm became more of a regular occurrence. I didn't hold it flat and reach the 8500rpm limit of the stock carb until it was run in fully. A K motor is an old design, and uses fairly high tension rings. At the start of the engine's life, you want to put the engine under large vacuum conditions, so the rings "suck out" against the bore walls and wear themselves into the cylinder hone, so they provide a better seal. The way to do this is to get a long section of road with no stops, and drive along at normal town speed, shift into 4th or 5th and put your foot down, letting the revs slowly increase as the engine sucks air in. Hills are really good for this, as you don't end up going too fast and speeding. Do this sort of thing as much as you can during the first 500 miles, as this is when the most ring wear occurs. Don't unnecessarily labour the engine, but don't just cruise with it either. The point is to be constantly changing the vacuum conditions of the engine. Don't take it on a long steady drive, what you want to do is constantly vary your speed and gear, so you have to put your foot down, and that makes the rings suck out and wear in better. After about 1000 miles, I just drove the thing normally, there's not much you can do but wait, and you'll know when the engine is fully run in, it will get alot more powerful for no reason. Mine took 4 or 5000 miles. Run in period over. There's also no point trying to tune a new fuel supply on a fresh engine, its' needs for air and fuel and vacuum are constantly changing, so you'll find yourself changing the tune every week or month, and if you get it to lean out and detonate, or you can't get it started, or you put too much fuel down the sides of the bores, the engine won't seal up as well and you'll have lost power from the word go. I'd say leave the fuel supply stock until it's run in, and you know a tune is going to last longer than the next 1000 miles.

lovely jippy, can't wait to see the coupe:D des just bag him about the 15 different colours

ahh! copy cat :jamie: is it 2'' inlet? there about $140 off ebay

just want to see who still uses rollaclub in the tassie area 1 reply will be enough!

i didnt go because i knew no one would turn up, every meet i have been to sean and leigh have turned up. sounds like we need some more members that are willing to turn up!

theres no help for you if you can't post in the proper section!

so why can't you add what it drops onto the height it will be with them installed?