ke70dave

once again 'backpressure' has reared its ugly head into exhaust question..... it is volume of air and the size of the pipe which changes the flow velocity of the gases. in VERY general terms: low volume of air + too little exhaust pipe = restricted gases = bad (stock exhaust) low volume of air + small exhaust pipe = high gas velocity = good (an appropriately sized exhaust) low volume of air + big exhaust pipe = low gas velocity = bad (what the OP may be experiencing) higher volume of air + big exhaust pipe = high gas velocity = good (what you will get with a worked engine and an appropriately sized exhaust) to the OP, did you tell the exhaust shop to put 2" on? or did he do it? alternatively, i was just reading about how a bigger exhaust can make a an engine run leaner, due to the fact that more air is able to get into the cylinder but the carby isnt tuned for it. so that could well be the problem also.

yeah the sway bar is much better than most cheaper aftermarket setups. at first i thought it was a blade type sway bar.

i always thought thats why subarus were so slow! haha sweet looking car, ive only checked out the website (no videos allowed at work...) looking forward to seeing the video when i get home. that front sway bar is an interesting peice of work......

about $12 for a can of the cleaner from supercheap. sometimes hard to find, but its usually hidden somewhere. becareful as it is nasty stuff, don't breath any of it in! but it cleans stuff REAL good.

i think its in the engines best interest that he destroys that standard manifold. so he can throw it out!!!! and put some extractors on! car is looking real good evan g, good to see a nice clean build.

if the gearbox is behind a K motor, you might even get away with buying another box for less than the price of the bearing!

id be getting a can of carby cleaner, and spraying the crap out of the carby. start the car up (with airfilter out so you can see down the throat of your carby), put your hand on the accelerator on the carby, and go nuts with the carby cleaner, spraying it into your carby.. you will need to keep the engine going with the accelerator, as the carby cleaner will tend to stall the engine. keep going with the cleaner untill the inside of your carby is shiny shiny! then after you have done that see how it goes then. also don't be afraid to rev the guts out of it, just make sure it is warmed up before you do this.

this to me tells me that you have air in your cooling system. water doesnt expand when you heat it, but air sure does! so if you have air in your system, and especially if this air is around your thermostat, that could be your problem.

the only real way to answer this question is to speak with an engineer. my mate signs off stuff for me, and i told him about my proposed setup (86 strut, shortened, with welded on sleeve) and although he hasnt signed off on it yet (its not complete) he didnt jump out and say "you can't weld that". also just reading the post above me, there is a very big difference between welding a forged/cast component (such as a steering arm) and welding a strut, which is just a piece of ~50mm pipe. considering the strut is originally welded from factory. if a mini truck can get engineering for modifying the complete rear chassis (chassis hoops so the diff can go further up etc) then i would think that a simple weld job on a strut could be "legal" it all comes down to what the engineer thinks is safe and fits in with the code.

this may be true. but i cannot stand the horns!!!! i have no problem with them, being part of culture or whatever, but you have to admit they are quite annoying to listen to 90mins!!! i don't watch soccer any other time unless its the world cup, i don't know why, i play soccer each week but don't watch it, i just figure it only happends every 4yrs so might as well get involved. last time it was on i watched all the ausi games. i hadnt watched any soccer this year untill the saturday game of australia-ghana (exams last week). turned it on at 1125pm, to find that my TV has really bad SBS reception. 5mins to find a live feed on the internet and we were watching the game, at 15 frames per second.... never the less we were sitting down supporting austalia....untill about 25mins in.... WHERE DO THEY GET THESE REFEREES!!!! red card for a hand ball that really wasnt intended? id like to boot a soccer ball at that ref and see how he reacts!! i mean sure a penalty or whatever for a handball, but completley sent off? i thought red cards were for when there is a punch up or for when the player does a few very harsh tackles, or agro players etc. the thing i find a bit weird and annoying about soccer, is that the goal count is usually very low (1-1 for instance on saturday) and these goals can be the result of a poor decision by a referee. and it seems to be a very regular thing, where the outcome of a game is pretty much decided by the referees decisions. and the other thing, the single ref seems to have complete and control of the game, and it can't be questioned. why isnt there a video ref to confirm these severe decisions? espeically like i say, 1 poor decisions can change who wins/looses. and don't even get me started on how players exadurate when they get tackled, fall on the ground rolling around hoping for a penalty....

you may find it may be easier to give a suspension specialist a call, in australia we have either "pedders" or "fulcrum" that arent to bad. since you are in UK ive no idea what companies are over there, but a few phone calls should be able to answer most of your questions. they will have all the info for you as this is what they do every day. your mate is right about the shocks, but you may be able to get away with it if you don't lower it tooooo much (30-40mm isnt much) but you will find that if you get better shocks it will greatly improve the handling of the car, your shocks may be getting a bit sloppy (being ~8yrs old).

welcome to the forums mate. best bet would be to look at the members ride section to see what otheres have done. your questions are far to broad to be answered easily. except the wheels one, id say 16" would be the max you would want to go, anything else would look funny. 15" would be the sweet spot i would say.

so from what you describe, it was not covered at all. in the event of an accident, they would have inspected your car, and found all these things, and i doubt you would have been covered, especailly with that locked diff.

that is such a good source of information thankyou for posting that link!!!!! i now know what all the codes refer to.

hehe this would really annoy all the ae86 fan boys who lloooovveeee their T series diffs. as for kouki/zenki difference, its like 1.5mm or something. smaller one is 23.somthing and the bigger one is 24.something. someone posted it up on ae86dc but i can't find it now. it may have been 23.3 and 24.8?? not much in it. got some verniers to check how big the T series axel is you have? also: http://www.aeu86.org/index/axle-amp-differ...5762/post=92692 this website suggests its 24mm for the smaller one, and 25.5 for the larger one.

ohh that is a nice looking ke30 mate. only thing, that sender in your top radiator hose, is that for your temp guage? if so its not the best place for it. should really be on the other side of the thermostat somewhere. i bet its a great car to drive. what do yout think of the fender mirrors? compared to the door ones? in terms of what you can actually see? they certianly look cool thats for sure.

you confuse me!! you want driveability for a road car = appropriately sized turbo (note i did not use the word "big" or "small") you need the turbo to be small enough to make some boost low down in the rev range, and large enough so that it can hold your chosen amount of pressure all the way to redline. there are lots of different factors in turbo choice, that i don't even completely understand, rear housings, front housings, wheel size etc. i don't see how having a turbo that doesnt spin up untill 5000rpm is going to make daily driving easier, or "save your chassis". i think you might need to re-evaluate your plan, first you say you want a magical power figure? but then you don't want to damage your chassis with a powerfull turbo??? also you say you don't want to run high boost, yet you want boost to come on at high revs? your poor waste gate is going to be working overtime to allow that to happen. i say forget the power figure, pick an amount of boost you want, and where in the rev range you want it. then scour through compressor maps and see what suits your requirement. or like others have stated, put in a stocko 3sgte and see how you like it. then mod the engine as required.

good thing my ticket is a lifely pass (unsure if lifely is a word, but i sorta extrapolated from "yearly"...) and nah id like to keep modding rollas for a bit longer if thats cool.

these things are not biblically based at all, and its usually just some weird group just trying to make some money. oor they have gone and taken a few words of the bible completly out of context and run with it. good thing is its free to get into heaven and ive got my ticket :)

mm i like the red ring, but not so much the red centres. what about a darker shade of what is already there for the centres? like a really dark gun metal grey? with the red ring

yep pure sex alright. TODA coilovers. website suggests 1,925...pounds for what you see in that picture. not much change out of $3500 AUD. here is a good thread on ae82 coilovers http://www.ae82.net/showthread.php?1983-ae...mp;daysprune=-1

greetings, unfortunately i don't belive they will work for you. since ae82 is FWD and ae86 is RWD, so they have a very different front end on them. the ae82 having a driveshaft to deal with at the front. in the ae82 the coilvoer is bolted to the hub? above the drive shaft. in an ae86 there is no driveshaft so the coilover is actually part of the stub axel and its all one peice. ae82 coilover (the fronts are on the left) (edit, these are actually ae92 coilovers, read below) ae86 coilover (fronts are on the left) after a bit more research it seems that ae82 coilovers arent an easy option, apparnetly ae92 ones can work but you need to get the camber plates modified to fit. hopefully someone else can help you out.

yeah i know that... I'm talkinga bout the thing sticking out the TOP of the bonnet. drivers side about half way along. pink pipe.

sorry to re-quote this pic, but what is goin on under the bonnet? whats that thing sticking out of it?

and if you don't use good quality paint it will fade real fast! mmm enamel fading paint. i thought about going black on my car, but i knew i would regret it in summer.