ke70dave

ah sorry yeah i did misunderstand. yeah i guess there is a bit of risk in halfcuts in terms of the damage that may have been done to the engine. but i guess a visual inspection and a compression test should sort out if it is ok etc. and if you buy the halfcut from an import company there is a warranty that comes with it. so they would hopefully not sell you a dud. i don't know to much about this, but my understanding is that alot of half cuts are "made" from cars that arent worth selling as full cars. especailly in japan where older cars are very expensive to keep, if they can make a bit of cash by cutting the front off and sending it to australia then they will do that. so it may have been a perfectly good condition car, but isnt worth anything to them. i think the worst case scenario would be the car has flipped over and the engine would have been run upside down, and got serious oil starvation or something. I'm not sure how you would check for such a thing unless you inpspected the bearings or something... and you may have misunderstood me, ive never had a halfcut, i was just saying that after doing an engine conversion by peiceing together the parts, i should have just bought a halfcut and got all the parts in one go.

half cuts are a good idea if its a simple engine transplant (ie FWD engine into a FWD car) or RWD engine into RWD car. since you will most likely be able to use most of it. with something like a 20V half cut for RWD, as sam said you woulndt use half the stuff in it (ecu/loom/some of ignition system/some of water system) so depending on the price you may be better off just buying an engine + accessories and then buying the rest seperately (ecu/water system/ignition system etc) I'm not sure on the 3sge how much of the original setup you will be able to use, since its a RWD engine already you may find that you can use almost all of it (loom/ecu/water/ignition/etc) which would make buying a halfcut a good idea since you can use almost all of it in the conversion. having said that, you can just buy a half cut and then sell off the stuff you don't need, you may come off quite good. for example if you bought a japnaese ae86 halfcut, alot of the the extra stuff (interior/overflow bottle/extra bits and peices) are quite sought after so you can sell quite a bit of it. same goes for the 20V halfcut, you might be able to sell alot of the non needed stuff to FWD enthusiasts. for me personally i wish i just bought an ae86 halfcut for my 16V conversion, would have been much cheaper and easier. but on the other hand i don't have any room to put a halfcut at my house so at the time it wasnt an option.

I'm unsure if it applies to 3k's, but on the 4ks there is a difference in pumps if you have a fluid coupling in your radiator fan, or if it is fixed. something to do with the "high cam" series of 4k's. someone may need to confirm this though.

yeah blue smoke isnt good..... id do a compression test both wet and dry, to check out the condition of your rings. how much is "pouring"? are you using an alarming amount of oil? and did this problem only occur after you rebuilt carby? or did you rebuild carby because of the problem?

next time it happends try attacking the spark plugs with a wire brush rather than buying new ones. ive fouled up plugs a few times to the point where they didnt fire (carby dramas causing uber rich), then after fixing carby i gave the plugs a good go with carby cleaner and a wire brush, re set the gap, came up like new, and worked perfectly for years after. good to see you got it sorted, happy corolla engines make for happy corolla owners!

22rc is an interesting engine. my dad has a 95 hilux dual cap 2wd with one, and it is quite slow and annoying to drive. my brother has a 95 hilux cab 4wd with one, and it is even slower, but it does 4wd quite well. but i went in a guys car the other day, and it was a single cab hilux with an aluminium tray back with a 22rc, and it felt quite zippy. i can only put this down to this car being lighter than the rest, so in a ae71 i can only guess it would be better. i actually thought this one was a 22re at first just seemed that much quicker.

to me it seems like people do work on their cars, to make it look like they don't do work on their cars. (scrubbing paint etc) there are some cool contraptions out there though like this but what is it for?

enough? enough for what? have a read of this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_angle this is good too http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

what about if you take out the spark plugs in 3/4 (re attach leads) and ground them somewhere and give it a crank, see if the spark plugs are firing? be careful doin this as its a pretty nasty zap if it gets you;) inlet manifold maybe cause it, though that usually causes it to run crap and/or have a high idle, everthing done up tight stilll? ive not had much experience with blown headgaskets, but i think you should still get it to fire, even if it misfies it should do something.

hey mate, sucks its running bad after all that new stuff! are you able to do a compression test? are the plugs fouled up? you checked the points gap since its been running rough? hows the dizzy cap looking? backfiring out the carby is interesting.....dizzy hasnt slipped its position? does it free rev? (ie rev in neutral)

yep same here. at work a while ago some truck driver came running into the office "can someone find out who owns the blue datsun, and get them to move it" i jumped up and exclaimed how it was certainly not a datsun. i also have no badges on my car, and when i tell people its a corolla they always wonder why id bother with a corolla. i just say something like...at least its not a datsun. i wouldnt say i love my car...but i do "love" driving it. nothing like the feeling of a nice crisp morning or evening drive through some windy roads, both front windows down, heater on 100%. some good music on, not too loud though so i can still hear the engine.

also check out ebay to, especially american ebay. unsure on the brands, but you can get complete car kits for pretty cheap. and if you get an AE86 kit all the bushes will fit an ae71.

its not so much if it suits the engine, but if it suits the clutch disc. in which case you can just get a custom clutch made up anyway.

i thought i recognised that motor stixy!! shame you had to sell. but it does look good in that engine bay! and those brake rotors are huuUUUggeee.

hmm yeah sorry my flaming was a little premature. but I'm just not a fan of products being flamed that arent correct. see it so much on forums! also you are correct about the MT/LT thing. the manual is called the LT manual, but yeah it sais MT in the description. so who knows... also there is this option as well, Screen 22: Crank The Crank function varies fuel supply while cranking the engine to assist with starting. When the MT ECU detects the engine being cranked, it adds the amount of fuel set in the Crank screen for the current temperature hmm there is also this one too Af_StE The After Start Enrichment function supplies additional fuel for a short period after starting the engine to assist with initial engine warm-up and to prevent leaning out as engine conditions normalise. This option allows you to set the amount of additional fuel to be supplied this manual is so confusing that its definately not wanting me to buy a microtech!!

ok fellas, enough talking crap. http://www.microtechefi.com/software/ltmanual.pdf read it page 22 reads: Screen 20: Water The Water function varies the fuel supply dependent upon engine temperature to assist with warm-up and maintain ideal running conditions as the engines requirements change. The MT ECU senses the engine coolant temperature (or engine head temp on air-cooled motors) and applies the correction factor set in the Water function screen closest to the actual temperature. The MT ECU will increase or decrease the injector open time by the amount set in the Water function screens. · For optimum results, the Water function should not be set up until after the other main functions of the MT ECU. etc etc

hey mate welcome to the forum. this kind of thing can really only be answered if we know how much work you are able to do yourself. if you are unable to do any work yourself, then its definately a throw away item. however if you are competant in pulling things appart by following a manual then you may be able to get away with it for cheap. from my point of view here are your options: 1) cash in rego, sell it or sell to wreckers. 2)pull off head in your back yard, take it down to a machinist for checking if it is good then you will just need a gasket kit (they are only about 150$, i bought one not long ago). if the head is stuffed, you will need to find a 2nd hand one or get yours fixed (potentially $500). then put it all back together. 3) find a complete engine that someone has pulled out of a car for an engine swap. if its the 4afe they should be cheap as to buy on the forums. or maybe get a quote from a wreckers for a complete engine, the prices may surprise. you only need the head/block combo but most wreckers will prolly want you to buy the lot. then you just need to spend a weekend swapping it into your car. ultimately you cannot make a decision on weather it is financially viable untill you know the condition of the head. it may be a case that a $150 gasket kit fixes is. though if you overheated it, you may have bent it.. also you are a minister? what religion/church are you involved in? (if you don't mind me asking)

ah very good point. ive not really had much to do with oil systems. might have to do a bit of reading. but yes you are right if it blows through an oil drain gallery, the water will just pour in. thanks for the reply mate!

also depends where the headgasket fails. if it fails between the combustion chamber and the water gallery, you will get the frothy radiator and low compression. if it fails between the combustion chamber and the oil gallery, i assume epic blow by and low compression. if it fails between 2 cylinders, i assume you just get low compression on those 2 cylrs. if it fails between oil and water id say you would get water in oil (in your sump). due to the pressure difference that tax-rx mentioned. though the oil gallery is under pressure as well. so one must wonder why you don't see oil in water. oil pressure would be higher than the cooling system pressure right? i wonder why it is always the water that ends up in the sump, and not oil in the cooling system. i to have had the joy of opening a sump plug and letting all the water out. it definately puts a downer on the rest of your day when that happends!!

hmm well you should send the rest to me! also does that bonnet have a chrome edge along the front of it? or is it part of the headlights/grill. simliar to the chrome edge along the bottom, that part of the headlights/grill or is it part of the apron panel down there. note: yes a little offtopic, but i am unsure what would be considered "ontopic" for this thread:P

a little beaten perhaps, but i still want the front end off that car!

hmmm this is interesting. i would be getting your alternator and regulator checked out by an auto elecy. you can just drop them off and they will bench test it with their load machine. maybe its on the verge of dying which is causing the intermitent..ness. in my experience once the engine is running, almost nothing will cause the alternator light to turn on unless the alternetor isnt working properly (or if you almost stall it, then the light flickers a bit) the alternators are rated at like 35-40A. your headlights are only about ~8A each or so. demister around there. you will be hard pressed to use up 35-40A with the standard equipement in an old corolla. in fact you shoudlnt be able to flatten the battery when engine is running (other wise the electric devision in toyota needs to be fired!) so if your charge light is coming on at all when engine is running (which you describe above) then id say your alternator cannot keep up, and thus needs some attention.

apparnetly this has something to do with the fact that when microtechs first came out they were compatible with the standard series 4/5 CAS. so they got quite popular because they were easy to adapt. didnt have to change much. this is all hearsay from a mate of mine who is into rx7's. so could be all rubbish. mitch-12: any evidence to support your statements?

nah you don't want to go any higher than about 1.75", 2" max on the exhaust. 2.25" is prolly a bit big on my 4age still, and its 1.6L and flows a bit more air than a 4k. i can't help with the rest as ive not done it, but check this link out: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...a_tough_K_motor bit of a write up on K motor mods.

sounds like your have a dodgy earth somewhere. thats about the only thing that can explain whats going on there, especially the reverse gear thing.