ke70dave

yeah but how many rollas are in ACT? and how many of them are on rollaclub? and how often are they going to require a tow? I'm gonna guess hardly ever! if my corolla breaks down, id prolly leave it where it is, untill the next day, where i would come back with some spanners, after visiting the wreckers for the part i need. rather than call a tow truck. the ~$100 is worth more to me than the annoyance of running around getting parts. For others this may not be the case. On one ocasion my car broke down, i hired a car trailer for 50 bucks and towed my car home with my mates sisters commondore:P i think the key is to work with workshops, get yourname out there as good service in your area. maybe ask workshops if they can use you as their prefered service or something.

unfortunately i can't get to those ebay links from work... http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasqu...-kits-c-30.html but these guys are pretty decent prices 253US for the kit (277AUD) or 411US for one that is already assembled. (450AUD)

hmm that pdf is goood.. minimum eye brow height for a ke70 is 345mm, which is the distance from the centre of the wheel, to the edge of the guard. i dare say to comply with that the car would have to be quite high.

40km is a fair way! and 80bucks seems pretty cheap. i recall my mate and i getting towed about 60km (at 1am....), and it cost about 300 bucks. and i got towed less than 2km, and it was 90 bucks...but i got ripped but didnt have any other options at the time.

dare i say it... did you google it? first result: http://www.driftopia.com/2007/06/29/clocki...e-sr-t25-turbo/ when your finished spinning it, ensure that the oil drain is still verticle, or very close to verticale.

yeah but it will never run properly as its not designed to run on a k motor. just buy a megasquirt! 400 bucks for an ecu that has the same features as an ecu in the $1500+ price bracket. be prepared to read, alot.

best bet is to work out what event you want to run in. figure out what class it is in and who is the governing body (cams or aasa etc) and then find the regulations that control it. http://www.camsmanual.com.au/ thats the cams one I'm sure there is a aasa one around too. and get invovled with a rally forum, and talk to people that run in the class you want to run in, the can help you out as well.

my tip is don't just fill your car with "go fast bits" and hope it will drift. get it running with the minimal (your s13 gear in the front, and springs/shocks in the rear) then add items to cater for what you want to change in your car. if you just bolt in every mod at once (sway bars etc) then if it sucks, you wont know what it was like before you put it in, so you will have to change it back to stock. and then if you like it stock, you will have wasted money on the sway bars. when i had the s13 gear in, with kyb shocks and stiffer springs in the back, although i wasnt into drifting, the car was quite tail happy. now that ive put the 86 gear in, it just grips grips grips, so i reckon the tailhappyness has something to do with the rediculous track the s13 front end gives. with a ca18det i can only imagine the "tailhappyness" will multiply by 1000!! there is a really good thread on ae86dc where everything lists their suspension setups and writes pro's and con's. might be worth checking out.

thanks mate i just need to get another pair of wheels like those front ones!

right well the 20c peices worked well! jsut need to add a few more i reckon....rattling a little bit still. car looks much better with the normal amount of track on the front end, few pretty pics are in order i think:

hey mate whats your budget? heres some info here http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=43530

hey mate, saw the VW last night. damn it goes well!!! sounded sweet. i got a bit of a video of it coming around the finish line, might put it up on the youtube sometime. what was the best time you guys got? how good was atkinson in the satria? far out he was giving that car hell!! btw don't know any rally teams looking for some extra service staff? id love to help out. also if you heard about some idiots getting stuck in an ae86 trying to get into the carpark....that was me and my mate. they reckoned we would get through, but we got in like 2m and sunk to the chassis rails:P so so so muddy.

yeah but he is talking about an ae92, not a ke70. if you don't find an answer here, try twincam.org (or is it .info...) definately have the answer on there.

that is an incredibly brilliant suggestion!!

we put a ca in my mates ae86 a few years ago. got an ebay cooler, was like 300x300x60 (guessing dimensions here, but it was small), for like $90. fit real nicely, and worked fine with ~12psi going through it. just using standard turbo? no point fitting an intercooler the size of a surfboard if the turbo takes all day to fill it up!

how did you come up with 100kw/Litre? 120kw/1.6L = 75kw/L? and whats with this "if you baby the car it gives problems".... hmm.... ive no experience with the corolla in question, but its a corolla so its no doubt bullet proof. and the blacktop 4age is a proven engine for power and reliability. listen for clicking noises on acceleration to check the CV wear, and make sure the CV boots arent cracked, as if they have been letting dirt in there, the CV's may be on their way out. also you can get CV joints rebuilt, rather than buying new ones. mate with a 32 GTR had to get his done, not cheap, but do-able.

ah thought so. so the needle and seat can only hold the formentioned ~4-6psi in that case so long as the fuel pressure is low enough to allow the needle and seat to seal, then it should be all good. maybe mr scoobxd got lucky and his needle and seat is able to hold the pressure of his supercheap auto pump. though fuel pressure regulators are fairly cheap so i would get one anyway, and set it to what you want.

"work" is a bit of a loose term. if your going to the effort of installing some fancy carbys, i would want to have the fuel pressure set to exactly what the carby specifies. though to be honest i thought that fuel pressure wasnt an issue (so long as it was small) with carbys, as you just fill the carby fuel bowl and the fuel is sucked into the engine via the jets....i would have thought that the actual amount of fuel being pump would have more of an issue on carbys than the specific pressure it is supplied at? since the fuel bowl is at atmospheric pressure anyway, the fuel pump just has to have enough pressure to allow the float/inlet valve to fill the bowl. and of course enough flow to maintain the fuel bowl at the required level? (stupid question, does a carby fuel bowl have a return on it? if not how does the fuel pump "know" how much fuel to pump so that it doesnt overflow the fuel bowl...been a few yrs since ive worked on carby engine. I'm starting to think that the reason carby fuel pumps are only allowed to be 4-6psi is that the inlet valve attached to the float in the carby (use to keep fuel bowl at a constant level) can only handly 4-6psi.) on a completely unrelated topic, how cool is this!! http://www.britishracecar.com/LesGonda/LesGonda-BB.jpg

theres a good chance ill be able to come along to this. i say we make a new thread like jip sais. got a nice pair of alpine splits and a nice sub in the car, might need a jump start after ~4hrs though... oh and trev, the subs in other guys cars will be hopefully be playing the movie, so if anything they will enhance your movie experience:P last time i went i was in my mates 95 pulsar and the back left speaker crackled something chronic...

yeah put 2 bell housing bolts back in and take engine/gearbox out as one unit. though if your set on getting the gbox out, you may need to apply some wedging action between the gearbox and the engine. there is a split down the bottom i think (to let oil out) so you can get a decent sized screwdriver in there. it should be pretty lose though, so if the engine is still bolted in, grab hold of the shifter end of your gearbox and give it a good wiggle, should come lose! the thing that will be holding you back will either be the spline in the clutch disc, or the input shaft in the crank spigot bearing.

right well ke70/ae71, the stock setup is crap (mainly for the lack of shock absorber options, especially short stroke). and playing with cut springs is not advised, you do need proper springs with short stroke shocks to achieve a decent ride. you got three popular "bolt in" options to achieve this, s13 front end corona front end ae86 front end. ----- s13 front end: i had this in my car for the last 3 and a half years. its not to bad, i went through 3 sets of coilovers trying to find something that worked well, and unfortuantely didnt find it. most s13 coilovers the damping is far to stiff for corollas, s13 gives you lots of track, which can be helped with R31 arms. with stock s13 LCA's and stock ke70 guards, my 15x7 +23 @ -2.5deg camber only just fit. i just sold my entire setup for 900 bucks, which isnt bad for what you get. so: pros: epic amounts of lock, quite cheap, great brake upgrade (250mm x 20?mm), large range of coilovers to choose from, 2nd hand parts are ubundant from nissansilvia.com cons: not legal with s13 arms (to much track), steering is quite twitchy at times, steering tends to get tighter and tighter the more lock you wind on (interesting experience if your not used to it), hard to find suitable coilovers to get good grip. ---- next setup is the xt130? (unconfirmed on that model, research!) corona setup: not had any experience with this myself, but i hear its quite good. get large brakes but they are still just solid discs, decent upgrade over ke/ae stuff though. main advantage of this setup is that the shock tube is the same diameter as an ae86, so you have a very good and very large choice of shock absorbers to choose from. i hear there is a very nice brake upgrade as well, which involves a hilux caliper and a peugeot disc (research it!, i have a nice PDF on this on my harddrive) its a very simliar to ae86 setup, you can apply all the RCAs/LCA's that you would normally apply to the suspension, the only difference from ae86 is the brake caliper mounting is different. so, pros: cheap cheap cheap to buy a whole setup from the wreckers, simliar to ae86 stuff so you can use the LCA's/RCA's aftermarket parts cons: standard brakes are only solid discs, thats about the only con i can think of. ------- final setup: ae86 main problem here is that alot of the gear is quite expensive. especially 2nd hand OEM parts, guys seem to crank up the prices a fair bit, but you can still find bargains. though when you start talking about powersteering arms, lock spacers, the total price can start to get expensive, but thats cars! struts are the same on both JDM and ADM items. ADM is a 234mm solid disc (12mm?) with appropriate caliper JDM is a 234mm vented disc (18mm?) with a very simliar caliper to ADM, its exact same except it is ~6mm wider. some guys use brake pads that are 6mm thinner to use ADM caliper on the vented disc (GSL rally sport can supply these) large range of shocks available from all the performancy brands (KYB, bilstein, koni etc) youll need a pair of RCAs if you intend to lower the car a bit (100 bucks 2nd hand, or 200 new) you can apply a pair of xt130 control arms, which are about 10mm longer than standard items, give 1-1.5 deg of negative camber. sigma arms are far to long in my oppinion, the track looks quite rediculous if you have decent sized wheels. last weekend i installed an essentially brand new ae86 front end into my ke70 (new shocks, bearings, jdm yo discs, reco'd jdm yo calipers, welded on coilover sleeve, camber tops, brake lines). and although I'm still sorting out a few bugs, it is a 400% improvement over the s13 gear. and i should be getting a mod plate for it all to keep the po po (and my insurance company...) happy. so pros: lots of good shocks available, aftermarket support is very large, good brakes standard. MANY large brake upgrades available (willwood, rx7 caliper conversion, etc) cons: inital price can be very expensive, especially in ke70 where you need to buy the struts brakes/discs as well. both adm and jdm brakes i would consider a bit to small for proper track work (not drift, but full on hard continuous braking) but having said that lots of guys get away with it. but for street i reckon its plenty big enough. ---- so thats three popular options explained to you briefly. my suggestion, is dive into members rides threads and speak to some guys on what they have done. only way to learn is read!

yeah cut springs are crraaaappp. yes ive been running them for a few years, and yes i know they are crap:P falcon springs are far to stiff for a corolla if you want it to grip. if you do use falcon springs you will need some pretty stiff shocks to control them. for interests sake i have some dodgy cut AU springs in the back of my car, and some KYB shocks out of a commondore wagon. the shocks cannot control the springs and it just bounces on bumps. its not to bad, but compared to the front which with the new 6kg springs and mr2 rear shocks (ae86 front end) handle the bumps beautifully. tomorrow I'm putting in some softer springs to see if i can get the bouncing down, but i will have to get some better shocks at some stage as well. lowering the car 1.5" isnt very much, and i dare say any 2nd hand springs you find will be lower than that. my suggestions is buy a proper set of springs in a decent spring rate (4kg or so) and some decent shocks. you may find that cutting standard ke70 springs may get you closer to the 4kg (or maybe something from a mid 80's corona?), but please get some better shocks as well! (stock ke shocks suck....)

sounds like an interesting build mate! give me a yell if you need a hand swinging some spanners!

i also considered this when i couldnt afford a 4age. ive been in ae86s with 4acs that appear to be quite fast, ive also been in a few that are pretty damn slow...... in my oppinion, by now all the 4acs would require some sort of rebuild to get them up to scratch. so either valve guides or new rings etc. i mean if you already have an ae71 pedal box/tailshaft/gearbox/crossmember and the only thing holding you back from 4age is the engine itself (and associated fuel/ecu items etc) then if you can pick up a known good condition 4ac then i say go for it. however if you reckon you can save some cash and 4age it within say the next few months, i would just wait till then. 4ac is a good upgrade over the 4kc, but if you can wait a bit longer, then 4age is better than both of them.

ahh the gze, I'm fairly sure that the gze alternator is quite a unique alternator. the plug is the same as all the other toyotas from that era (16V and 20V) but there was something unique about the way it bolts on or something. your best bet is to just get yours rebuilt, any auto electrician will do it. where abouts do you live? (your thing sais brisbane) logan priest auto electrician in wynnum should be able to help you out, hes a good guy, ive got a few things done by him- alternators and starter motors etc. has some sweet cars in his workshop too.