ke70dave

yeah something about you have to keep the same emissions equipment that the engine came with. so i figured best to be safe than sorry.

thanks mate, that would be much appreciated. I'm gonna drop into this option 1 garage on the way home this arvo, see what brands they can get.

that include a CAT? when i put my 4age in the ke70, ended up costing $550....but $200 of that was the brand new catalytic converter....but same deal as mr altezza...didnt have a choice, and needed an exhaust asap. but yes very well done twinky.

yes.

all the switch does it change how many pulses it reads as one revolution. so if its on 4 it will read 4 pulses to 1 rev. if its on 8 it will read 8 pulses per rev. try switching that switch around and see if it gets more accurate? in fact if its reading double, try it on "8". essentially should halve what the tacho is showing if you have it on "4" at the moment. how cheap are we talking here? maybe the switch sticker is wrong?:jamie: also shouldnt need a resistor.

altezza: I'm in brisbane. so should be plenty of options to get tyres. where abouts is that "cookie" bloke located from that link you posted. niz: i am leaning towards to the federals, as like you say for 140 each, gota give them a go.

i thought the OP was refereing to ke70s on air suspension or air bags. but this has turned out way cooler than that.... i still enjoy your videos on youtube toy-yoda:P

there is a guy in brisbane who has a rear mounted V8 in one, back end is completely re designed. in fact there isnt much mighty boy left.... it competes in the hill climbs (ive seen it at the mt cootha hillclimb the last 2 yrs). it is fast! only photo i can find of it. this is at mt cootha.

altezza: toyo T1R hey, do you know where they sell those? a bit of a google reveals prices are fairly reasonable (just other forums). might have to ring around. they have pretty good rating though from the reviews ive read.

i recall when we took a mates rx7 series 1 12a turbo to the drag strip, first drag of the night, he got a little carried away...with his new semi slicks and a 8000rpm launch. both axels snapped. long ride home in the tow truck. little red spririt is getting 15's or so in his 20V ae71, so i would expect much the same from your car.

C-drives hey, never considered them actually. might have to do a bit of ringing around to find a price for them.

morning folks, just looking around for a pair of tyres for some wheels i just bought. they will be up the front so looking for something pretty decent, but don't also want them to last a fair while as they are daily driven etc. (size is 195/50/R15) suspension setup is fairly decent so i think the tyres should also be decent. just looking at the option 1 garage website, as they are 2 blocks away from my work. http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewTyres.htm they have the Federal 595 RS-R for $140/each which seems pretty reasonable? given the tyres are considerd a "semi slick"? or they have the admiral tyres for probably cheaper (not checked prices, will ring up on my lunch break). or there is the kumho ku36 semi slick for a bit more expensive (the 205/50/r15 is $157, so i guess the 195 will be a bit less) or i can just do what everyone else does and get the bridgestone RE001 for around 140-150 from bridgestone. so i guess I'm looking for recomendations on the higher end of street tyres both in terms of grip as well as how long they last etc. the use will be daily driver, as well as "enjoyable" drives through the mountain roads. road noise isnt an issue, as my diff noise takes care of that.

well it all depends how much effort you put into the tuning, if you tune all the enrichment maps (air temp, water temp, cold start) then it will drive fine in all conditions. problem is with alot of aftermarket ecu's they just get tuned for power, not driveability. i vote rebuild your 4age with the gze pistons, then you get nice new rings and bearings.

haha thats great, though i would have thought that you would want to heat up the rod, and cool down the piston/gudgeon pin? i rememeber my mate used his mums brand new oven to heat up the glue on the glass on a headlight (to put the glass onto another headlight) yeah she came home from work early that day, it did not go to well.

i thought you "knew for a fact"..... :D i don't like your chances of finding it, if it did exist i reckon it may be fairly popular.

the aftermarket diff available for ae86 diff is for a T series. there are 2 types of ae86 T series (big and small axel, and these only came in jap cars, dunno about US), then there is the T series out of the T18 which have the smaller axel. (btw big axel is like 25.4, small is 24.5 or something, not much in it) the aus delivered ae86s have the S series, which is useless. still waiting to hear back from mr SLW about this rumoured KAAZ for a ke70 diff.

sorry trev he edited it after i read it!! also.... http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug_cars....+-+19831.8L3T-C (hopefully that works)

any details on this KAAZ LSD for stock ke70 diff? and also any car can get axel tramp if its setup wrong, just so happends that leaf rear ends get it easier.

what were you looking for? the part lookup system at supercheap is a heap of junk (i used to work there), its web based, so its extremely slow. having said that most staff have no idea about cars (they get NO training at all). so a combination of these two things = difficult to get good help.

not much you can do there except for use a short stroke shock, which you will need to use a shorter strut tube. one option for this is to use ae86 coilovers, cut the strut tube, take a bit out, weld it back together and fit some short stroke shocks. and use a weld on threaded sleeve with a small diameter spring. (making "coilovers"). if you have ke70 stuff in there already then i would think that it wouldnt be too hard to convert to ae86 stuff? bonus of bigger brakes, but most importantly a large selection of short stroke shock absorbers. (KYB, koni, bilstein...take your pick) sweet looking car btw, those wheels look great.

PCD = pitch circle diameter. in the case of 4 studd this is the distance between the studds, since the studds are evenly spaced on the circle. howeever, as shown in the picture, in 5 studd (or any where the studds are not equally spaced) it is the diameter of the circle that the studds are on...ie the pitch circle.

maybe something like this? http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=42930 i dunno ive never played with webbers, or 3tc's, but thats what i would be looking at. keep it looking pretty standard as well. you just might have to get it rejetted for the 3tc, i dunno. edit: here is an even cheaper one, though may need a rebuild apparnetly. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=42669

nah i didnt have to remove anything else. is your car Left hand drive? ie do you have the steering column in the way? i think from memory i mananged to monouver it out the bottom. it doesnt come out the front?

hahaha c'mon altezza ease up:P though i don't understanding the slanting engine, what on earth is the advantage! easy to change spark plugs perhaps? obviosly the people who were in charge of designing all the stuff on the OTHER side of the motor, were slack, in that they left EVERYTHING to the guys designing the passenger side of the engine. and to add insult to injury they slanted it over that way as well! haha eric its not as bad as it may seem, i changed one in 20mins, yes its a pain, but if things were easy they would be boring!

hey mate, pretty easy job, but can be a pain getting it back in again, when i did it went like this. -isolate starter motor from battrey by undoing main battery positive (easier than undoing positive terminal off starter) -undo 2 bolts that hold starter in, from memory these are from the bellhousing side, so you will need a spanner and a bit of patience, don't think you can fit a socket down there. they will be the smaller of the bolts on the bellhousing -remove starter from location! -remove wires from starter -remove starter from car. putting it back in can be a little tricky, trying to line up the bolt holes etc, but its not so bad.