ke70dave

sometimes i think maybe i should have bought an R31 instead of a ke70. simliar pricing range, maybe a bit more exy for a decent one. heaps more power stocko, though a bit heavier. nicer interiour, especially on the silhouette and passage models (and passage is cool cause its pillarless) can bolt in s13/r32 engines/parts. has a decent diff already that you can get an LSD for. but still have the 80s boxy styling that we all love. main down side is they are a big 6clr i guess, so rego is more and more petrol...but other than that, to be honest i think the r31 as a fulli sick drifter is a much better option than a ke70.

oh its not a waste. its actually a pretty awesome idea. but if it screws up, your engine fills up with water, and you will bend something in a fairly catastrophic manor. and you need a fairly decent setup to make it work, wire it into your ECU as an auxilary, get your water pressure spot on, and your plumbing 100% perfect. my mate is doing it to his 12a turbo, he spent about $150 just on the nozzle. he is intending on injecting just before the turbo, which i guess helps keep turbine temps under control as well. though i wonder how the turbine blades like cutting through water... the other advantage other than cooling (though it sorta is cooling) is that it keeps the heat in the combustion, rather than losing it out the cylinder walls. greater efficiency thus more powers. it also keeps the inlet temps cooler, which increases the density of air = more power. though I'm not sure how it would go with a carby turbo setup, note sure i would be tooo keen on pumping water through a carby, but theres no reason why it shouldnt work....

what was it?

i don't really know, but there is a way to calibrate your TPS. ive not personally done it, but it should be in the 4age manual (big blue book). ive heard guys having success doing it. you turn it aorund till you have Xohms etc. might be worth looking into? http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_tps.html the IDL is your idle switch, which clicks on when your throttle is in the "idle" position. if you fiddle with the TPS while the engine is running, you can hear the idle switch clicking in/out etc. I'm not sure what it changes, i assume something with the timing advance. i assume the 2.3K ohm thing that when the IDL switch is open there should be no resistance (ie <2.3K) but when its closed it should be more than this. you can see in that link it gives a value of "infinity" when the TPS is at 0.59mm, so it reckons that when the butterfly is open 0.59mm the ecu recognises that the engine isnt at idle anymore. which makes sense i think.

and when you get it welded, maybe look into making some sort of brace for the turbo/manifold? though i would have thought that standard turbo manifold should be well designed and have the required supports etc.

nicely done, good to see some actual results. never occured to me that the opening/closing would be different. i always thought cams were symetrical....there you go hey.

what you could try just to double check your check engine light and diagnostic mode. unplug your tps or Map sensor, fire it up, it may not run very well. then do the diagnostic mode, just to check that the diag mode is working. Actually i just remembered, when i first got my 4age going, i couldnt work out what was going on, turned out to be a stuffed TPS, but there was no error code thrown up...though my engine refused to idle steady and would rev up and down like crazy for no reason. also your engine should run fine without a TPS plugged in, the revs will just drop fairly slowly when you free rev. but other than that it runs fine. (i ran mine like this, while i was waiting for a replacement TPS)

now I'm not usually one for paying out on otheres cars, but i found this all too amusing. pulled into wynnum plaza and parked next to this. and you can see my car there...so I'm not lying! it is in fact, a mid 80's accord, with an S15 wing. and to add insult to injury, the wing is broken. _________________ and another random photo. and this is a photo i took, of me and my mate testing injectors. now we are both engineers and are fully aware of how dangerous this is. admitedly i stood a fair way back while this was going on:P you can see we have a jar there, i was on the stop watch and we were flow testing the injectors. you can see that power pack to the right, we were using that to trigger the injectors. we initially had a battery charger running the fuel pump, but i think we blew that up, or at least blew the fuse. ended up getting the battery out of his car and used that. (interestingly we measured the current and that bosch 040 drew about 9amps constant!) he had 8 injectors, was selling 6, and wanted to keep the best 2. and far out 550cc rx7 injectors spray ALOT of fuel in a very short period of time!!! also not that during testing those wires were not allowed to touch, we had a piece of rubber between them.

hehe i actually laughed out aloud when i read that. just becareful doing this, i used an allen key to do this last time, got a nasty shock from the coil! my hand/arm was not the same for the next few hours! (note, don't try and adjust the points when the IGN is on) make sure you use something insulated!!! also make sure you havent got any moisture inside the dizzy cap, was it raining when you were doing a skid

ah interesting. i would have throught that would have thrown up an ECU error. oh well learn something new everyday. interesting to see what the timing light sais.

to be honest i woudlnt be bothering with the ecu/wiring from a falcon. falcon = ~3L, 3tc = 1.8L, its never going to run properly, if at all. get the EFI plate thing, with the injectors and then pick up a cheap megasquirt ecu;) make a new loom (maybe get the falcon loom to get the plugs off). and then start tuning.

which on an old ke corolla, isnt very difficult. what is it like 4 x 10mm bolts that hold the handbrake to the chassis? once you got those off i reckon you could have a pretty good go at getting that bracket thing off. or at least get it off enough to be able to get it into gear. though depends how keen they are for your car...

also start the car up cold, and just let it idle. it will go through its cooling system sequence. ie. engine start to heat up, guage goes up engine heats up to operating temp, guage goes to opperating temp. engine gets hotter, thermostat opens, guage drops slightly. engine gets hotter, guage goes up further thermo fan turns on guage goes down back to operating temperature and the thermostat and cooling fan should regulate it to around the same temp. bit of fluctuation as the fan turns on/off thermostat opens/closed. and if the thermo fan doesnt turn on, do what trev sais, if the thermo fan temp sender is stuffed, the fan will be turned on all the time, smart failsafe.

i think your first step is to get the check engine light wired in then get it into diagnostic mode. and it will tell you the reason why it isnt advancing the ignition. the error codes are pretty specific and they will tell you what signal it hasnt got etc. the check engine light ecu output is an earth, so you just get a bulb, put one side to +12, the other side to the ecu output. and it should work for you. (Was it you that had the thread on check engine lights? i think i forgot to reply with this answer, if so sorry!)

lucky they are using forged aluminium conrods. how cool is this. http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htm

had a play with programs such as this? http://www.virtualengine2000.com/index.htm prolly not a bad way to estimate power from these mods.

why mechanical fuel injection? i can't comment on the rest though.

nothing special about a k motor http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_%28engines%29

hey mate, no extra lights unfortunately. i just used one of the old radio volume control knob holes (up on the left) and found a globe bezel that fit in. i think i had to file it slightly. if your keen you can put a new light inside the dash though. may be a bit of a pain, but it would look good.

but on 7psi? i would maybe belive the 280kw on 30psi, but id hope it was built fairly well, as i don't think it would last toooo long. but even 280kw at wheels is 375HP....big asplosion iminent. maybe the OP has confused between at the wheels and at the engine power figures, and possibly between HP and KW figures. i like the idea of an R31 diff, not to big, but good enough to do the job, and you can get LSDs for them. hilux is a bit of an overkill i reckon. torago is not a bad option (yr22 i belive), but its still pretty big.

i woke up this morning and thought this thread had been deleted, but alas it has made its way into the most appropriate section, so that others may view in the future.

so what exactly are you asking? one advantage of coilovers is that you can get more camber adjustment as the springs are smaller and can move inside the strut tower. and also coilovers tend to be short stroke shocks and allow the car to be lowered more. genearlly with replacement spring/shock combos in a standard strut, since the strut isnt shortened at all, if you lower the car toooo much you will lose bump travel as the struts are stock length (and thus close to bottoming out shocks) i would just go springs/shocks and don't lower it rediculously.

i lifted somthing heavy once...never again! dunno what you guys are on about but i have a hydraulic jack to lift gearboxes or differentials into cars.

ive no doubt he does. i belive mr trikzlane has rebuilt the engine himself as well. i think hes an engine builder apprentice/trady? so rebuilding the 16V woulndt have cost as much as you might think SLW.

well he is sorta right.... what do you mean by "bearing"? is the crank damaged? does the crank need to be ground? is the block damaged? does it need to be machined? are you going to replace all of them or just the "bearing" that is stuffed? id hope all of them. the only way you are going to know is if you pull it all appart and inspect the crank/block or take it to a machine shop and get them to inspect it (what i would do). best case: YOU pull it appart, crank and block are fine, buy new main bearings for about 200bucks, fit it all up yourself and your back on the road. medium case: You pull it all appart, either crank or block need machining, possibly ~300 in machining + 200 bearings, fit it all yourself and your back on the road. worst case: you drop engine off at shop, THEY pull it all appart, crank and/or block needs machining, rod bearings are also out of spec, they need replacing, the shop does all the work....you could be up for $1000+ (i once got a quote purely for labour for a bottom end rebuild, NOT including parts was around $900 in labor, this assumed crank regrind and cylinder honing) see why its almost impossible to estimate? it would depend on how cheap you got this 20V for, and how much you were willing to pay. if one bearing is gone, i would be doing the whole lot while you have the engine appart, as well as rings.