ke70dave

yeah i still don't get it.. tried a bit of a google search, but didnt come up with much. do you have a link to some info at all? i know that bosch high prsesure pumps do not work very well unless they are under load (ie pressure). since it is a positive displacement pump.

not realllllyy sure what your on about with that bypass thing. if its a VL bosch fuel pump then that is what i have (bosch 070) and my fuel pressure is fine with the standard 4age fuel pressure regulator.(i have a fuel pressure guage and the pressure is fine) if you can easily get to your high pressure fuel pump, find out exactly what model it is and compare it to this: http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/fuelpumps.pdf the 070 is rated at 130L/hr @ 3bar (~45psi) fuel pressure check = fuel pressure guage up near the fuel rail. i bought mine for about 40bucks or so. 4age diagnostic mode: you will need to hook up your check engine light (theres a thread about that somewhere), then find your diagnostic box in your engine bay, short out the T1 and E1 (i think it is....) and watch the check engine light flash codes at you. like it sais here: http://www.club4ag.com/faq_and_tech_pages/ECU%20Diagnostic%20Codes.htm assuming your fuel pressure is in order, and your engine runs fine, it sounds to me like it may be the coolant sensor... but yeah do the diagnostic on the ecu. if you get stuck i can have a look at it for you, ive been through all of this quite a few times, I'm on wynnum 4178, not tooooo far from you.

i got linked to this today, i can't agree with the guy more.... (language warning!)

my car got broken into a few yrs ago, (mazda 323 hatch at the time) he coudlnt get the CD player out, so he took out the sub box and the parcel shelf, removed the sub/6x9's and dumped the sub box and parcel shelf in my neighbours boat! he then proceded to push my car into my fence, by putting his hands onto the bonnet and pushing it up the gutter (steering lock prevented him from turning wheel). police got the finger prints and found him a few months later! he had done about 12 cars in the one night...and he was 14yrs old.....and obviosly wasnt very inteligent. its amazing what these punks will do, and how stupid they go about doing it. had he had warn gloves he prolly woulndt have got done for my car. surely these things go through robbers heads.....?

do you understand what a "lock spacer" does? and how/where it sits in the system?

sounds to me that its not your ignition barell that is broken, it is the combination switch on the end. and its very easy to change, just a few little screws hold it in. my mate got a brand new ignition switch for his S1 rx7 through supercheap auto the company that makes/supplies the stuff is called "nice" there is a ~200mb catalogue of all their stuff on their website. they have some very cool replacement stuff. like random bits that you never would have thought you could buy new. any decent auto parts shop should be able to supply you with the stuff from that company. bursons, supercheap auto, whoever you have in your state. my mate only payed about $70 for his, and its brand new.

one must define "best" before voting though.. for ease of parts finding, and price of parts, 3rd, 5th, 7th. for decent engines that are pretty good in stocko form, 8th, 9th + (but FWD lets them down..) for pure cool factor, 1st, and maybe 2nd (ke20 aus here) but you cannot you cannot go past the te27 as the toughest looking car, and it just has that classic look that none of the otherse have.

i belive though that when you use the s13 cross member it sits the engine in a funny position? better of using the standard crossmember and just making up a few engine brackets to fit. and positing the engine as low and as far back in the engine bay as possible. pluss I'm not sure how you go about mounting the KE steering rack to the s13 xmember, though you could use the s13 rack with powersteering i guess, but then how do you join the s13 steering rack to the KE steering column?

do a system diagnosis on the ECU and see if a sensor is playing up. what does your fuel system comprise of? if your fuel pump is miles to big, it will cause to much fuel pressure as the fuel pressure regulator cannot control it. i tried a bosch 040 fuel pump on my 16V and my fuel pressure was up to 40-45psi, when its supposed to be around 35psi. high fuel pressure = running rich (since the ecu is expecting lower fuel pressure, and opens up the injectors X ms) then if you can rule out sensors or fuel pressure, move onto your plugs, but generally if its firing on all 4 cylinders then they should be alright. apparently the tune on a stock 4age computer is pretty good, and not much power can be gained from an aftermarket ecu. however, aftermarket ecus are much easier to diagnose problems, you can physically read off the values that the ECU is recieving from each sensor (assuming you can use a laptop etc) and also aftermarket ECU installs are much cleaner, you can throw out 90% of the wires in your engine loom as the ECU only requires ~15wires to work. especailly in a bastardised car (like yours, 4age in an older car) wiring looms can be very mess (i know mine is) in my oppinion its not worth getting an aftermarket ecu untill you have some mods that require it (camshafts, quad throttles, turbo, extra compression etc). if you arent handy with wiring you will pay ALOT for someone to install one, and then you never know how good of an install it is, might be just as dodgy as you can do.... those new haltech sprint 500 ecus look pretty nifty, and for about $1k its a good deal i reckon.

have a read through this http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44996&st=0 and get in contact with "Blinded" to find out more.

haha man i can relate to you there. small jobs that are supposed to take 5mins, take 5hrs...and usually involves buying something you didnt think you needed to buy.... also i just went through your entire thread, and i had to go back to page 1 just to get a photo of the entire car! i think you need to get some whole car photos!

no dramas. unless of course someone has just plonked a 3a tapet cover onto your 4a engine. that would explain it. why you would do this...unsure...but you never know.

3a hey. thats just a 1.5L 4ac http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#3A if you can find the engine number might be worth having a look. as to me that sticker looks a bit "aftermarket". so yeah check what your engine number sais, it will be "4a ******" or "3a ******" though SCV is some sort of valve, surge control valve? something to do with the emissions, i think its the valve between the rocker cover and the air intake? what engine is on your build plate on your firewall? as according to wiki the 3a only came out in ae71's in "japan only" cars. maybe you have an import there. also maybe for next time try and be a bit more specific with your questions, like "sticker on the side of the engine saying...3scv or some shit...WTF is a 3scv?" really isnt very helpfull, yeah you only had one letter missing, but as you can see it can make the world of difference! 3a-scv means something, where as 3scv..doesnt actually exist! (as far as google knows anyway!)

oh and also, get some R31 control arms instead of the s13 ones. they are considerably shorter and wont give you stupid amounts of track like the s13 gear does. they are a DIRECT replacement of the s13 ones. howeever for this you can still use your original rack ends. so in summary For using s13 control arms: hubs, brakes, coilovers, s13 control arms, tie rod ends (bluebird TRX), rack ends (ra60), ae86 camber tops. drill a 14mm hole in your LCA bolt hole in your cross member, drill 1 extra hole in your LCA for your castor arm. Using R31 control arms: hubs, brakes, coilovers, R31 control arms, tie rod ends (bluebird TRX), standard rack ends (ke70/ae86), ae86 camber tops. drill a 14mm hole in your LCA bolt hole in your cross member, drill 1 extra hole in your LCA for your castor arm. on a side note, i only just realised that R31 is just the numbers of S13 switched around, with the S replaced with an R.......small things amuse small minds hey.

hmmm i can't see why not.... it may get a little messy, but its only an old corolla after all.

ill come! i like steak. and corollas.

jump over to ae86dc (i think it may be down for maintainence), go through the tech articles and find the thread on s13 gear into ae86/ke70. in short: hubs, brakes, coilovers, tie rod ends (bluebird TRX), rack ends (ra60), ae86 camber tops. drill a 14mm hole in your LCA bolt hole in your cross member, drill 1 extra hole in your LCA for your castor arm. then it will bolt in.

http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Diff_LSD/diff_lsd_volvo_dana.htm some pretty good info there, they seem to be fairly abundant. JDM 86 disc rear ends are obtainable through importers quite easily, just the price is quite high. also seems that the volvo and jeep use this diff, and some parts are interchangable. sounds like a bit of hard work trying to find those parts. but its a pretty chunky diff thats for sure.

*references to formentioned squirrel talk removed* i didnt notice this business yesterday at all, untill i went home and jumped on firefox and yeah both 86dc and rollaclub were giving that funky red screen though yesterday at work on IE it tried to open something in windows media player when i browsed to rollaclub.com/board.....not sure what that was.

I'm not sure that you are supposed to try and buy stuff that people ask questions about... what size centre bore hole is standard ke70? the CSX wheels have centre caps. or alternatively have you tried going to a tyre shop? maybe they can order in centre caps for mag wheels. even if its for another brand of wheel, so long as it doesnt have writing on it knowone will ever know.

you think a differential from a VOLVO is just going to bolt into your ke70? its the same with any diffs you want to steal from any cars, custom mounts, custom tailshaft, custom handbrake cables and maybe custom brake lines. and as for where the Dana30 diff comes from? google it. i just found the info quite quickly, but I'm not going to tell you! hmm so this is quite an old thread.....

sorry ive no idea on details of the nissan diffs, someone might know. pinyada is only a 4clr CA20 (or something...), how big is the diff compared to a KE one? I'm not sure i would be tooo concerned about number of splines (more is better though), i would be measuring the axel diameter. and taking into account disc brake options and perhaps weight. the torago diff is quite an overkill for the lil ae86/ke70 (the diff itself is BLOODY HEAVY), especially since he was running 185 tyres! but its good to have a diff that is completely bullet proof no matter what you throw at it (with in reason). and in a 900kg car with a 1.8L turbo @12psi, weight isnt such a big issue....

NO bolt in options...... R31 diff is a good choice (same as that commondore jobby) and you can buy a brand new KAAZ lsd for them. or you can try and get your hands on a stock LSD (form either a silhouette r31, or whatever they came in in the commondores. but they arent the greatest, some sort of cone thing, my mate got his R31 one refurbished, went good for a while, but didnt last long. this was quite a number of years ago. but also rememebr that all these diffs are alot wider than the stock diff, we were running 14x6 +10 wheels on the ae86 (with torago) and the guards needed some serious "enthusiasm" to get the wheels to fit. less work than half these blokes running 15x10-400 wheels do, but if your going for that stock look you can't run very wide/low offset wheels. so if i was serious about it i would get the diff cut down to size at the same time so i could use decent wheels.....more ca$h.

negative. yr22 torago diff. apparetly its an F series, so you can get LSD's from altezzas, and various other cars. diff was 400 to buy. then took the torago diff, with a spare S series diff (adm ae86 diff) to this diff shop, and they welded all the mounts and spring seats from the S series onto the torago diff = $450 then the tailshaft was $350 then it bolted in. so thats ~$1200 for the torago diff, WITHOUT an LSD. your looking at $1200 to purchase a brand new LSD for it, then whatever it costs to get it setup inside the diff (potentially another 400-500 if you buy new bearings etc) so thats not much change from $3000 for an LSD diff, that will not break.

no worries mate, anything else you want to know? though to be honest there isnt much else to it, sort of just gota get stuck into the conversion and mod stuff as you go. the only real pain is the intercooler piping, we just bought some exhaust bends and borrowed a welderand we had a bunch of intercooler pipes of mates nissans and just peiced it all together. then once you have the thing running, drive/tow it to an exhaust shop and get an exhaust made for it, and your off! you also might want to check with an engineer what his requirements are for the conversion.