ke70dave

did this conversion in my mates 86 a few years back. exact same as the ke70. We used the standard ae86 radiator, it held up fine, even on the track (drifting so only short bursts of go go). ae86 rad is a bit bigger than the ke70 rad. i hear the s13 radiator is a good fit, but its going to have to be custom mounted. the loom is VERY easy to adapt, but you are going to need to study the ecu pin outs (we wired it like 3yrd ago, i can't remember details). constant power somewhere, ign power in a few places, and the starter signal. and off it goes. was litterally 4 wires to hook up. we put in a torago diff, and got a custom tailshaft. plenty of tailshaft companies around, around 350$ for the complete tail shaft. new uni joints at either end, and a new balanced peice of pipe in the middle. you just had to give them the length, and what you had at either end. the rest of the conversion is pretty simple, you are better of using an rb20 gearbox though (faily sure its rb20), as the standard ca box puts the shifter back a bit futher, to the point where you have to cut your transmission tunnell. though this was ok for us as my mate is uber tall, and sits really far back anyway, so he actually liked it. we needed to mod the hand hand break a bit as it interfered with the gearstick in 2nd gear. we just slotted the holes in the handbreak base and twisted it slightly so it didnt hit the stick. other than that its a pretty easy conversion once you get the engine/gearbox mounts done.

haha yeah looks like he may have done it a few times. he spins out a few times in this seems he can't handle a REAL rally car:P

yeah i was playing with a series 1 rx7 gearbox the other day. the outercasing is no bigger than a T50. gbox was pretty long though, but it seems there are MANY differnt combinations of bits you can play with to get the shifter in the right position. rotor boxes seem to have the funky external gear selection mechanism, with rods that go through the casing to the chassis. we were fiddling around with some parts and reckoned we could get the rods cut and re-machined and change the shifter position substantially. main reason we were doing this as I'm looking at a 12a turbo conversion into my car, biggest pain it seems is the shifter position. oh and reason we were playing with the S1 box is that we blew it up behind a 12a turbo. semislicks + drag strip = hell on the poor gearbox. my mate has quite a few rotary gearbox's lying around, so if the OP actually is serious about this i can get some measurements of the casing, then someone can compared them to the K/A/W series box's. btw sam where does one aquire these rotary to W box plates adaptor things?

well there is no need to make their job harder....... you just give them the information they want. and just keep giving information that will get you the part you need. yes you own an ae82 corolla from 1987 1.6L DOHC etc etc, unless they ask for a VIN number to prove you have that car (never happend to me, but ive never bought anything from toyota)and if that happends you may need to explain you have a bastardised car...or do what others have done and use someone elses vin number (there is a photo of a half cut JDM ae86 vin plate on ae86dc, if you need to buy something with a VIN number for an 86) and wreckers are the worst, i don't explain what I'm doing with any part i buy at wreckers, i just ask can i buy it, and if so how much. and if they ask any questions i just make some stuff up to keep them quiet. but my local wreckers sorta knows me now as the guy that buys ALOT of random parts of different cars. and don't tend to ansk questions anymore. they prolly think i own about 20 different cars!! oh and just remember that any numpty behind the counter of repco generally only has access to australian delivered cars (unless they dig deaper with phone calls etc). no 4agze's came to AUS so you shouldnt have to worry, and even so the listing will be 1.6L DOHC supercharged for the GZE. so just double check the engine listing.

haha i think half of you blokes take other peoples' talk to seriously. or you need better mates that don't pay you out all the time! WGMG: its not friday yet. and its not even thursday.

some money, a 13B bridge port,a ke25, a welder,an angle grinder, some steel, a soldering iron, a philips head and flat head screw driver (both small and large), a socket set, a few spanners,a pair of pliers, a 7mm allan key, rubber and copper mallet, large steel hammer, a hydraulic jack, some skills, and some time. that should cover it. Check out members rides section, theres a few rotary builds in early ke's. start with: custom engine mounts custom gearbox mount custom radiator mounts (your going to need a huge radiator) custom wiring custom tailshaft a bigger diff (if your a heavy foot) some better suspension that will keep you on the road some bigger breaks that will help you stop sam whats wrong with the rotary gearbox? they are pretty damn strong and a relatively cheap. i hear they are a bit large in the transmission tunnell, but people seem to fit them in just fine.(so many DX's in NZ with 13b's)

but even if postage is 400AUD on those coilovers ~600AUD is pretty damn cheap for a set of coilovers. the other "reason" may be that when things come to australia there are prolly quite a few "middle men" who add their ~10% on top. doesnt take long to get prices up that way. for example i used to work at JB hifi in the car-audio section. almost everything had more than 100%+ mark up on it (ie we buy it for $50 and sell it for $120). and as you all know JB is VERY reasonable prices when compared to other retail prices. not a good example no, but if that website up there is where they originally make them, or close to the top of the mark-up chain, and its only an internet site (which will be cheaper anyway), then its no wonder they are cheap compared to what sells in australia. for more eye openers of the american market check out www.eshocks.com

so you must have an adaptor that sits between the head and your intake manifold, to "convert" form bigport to smallport. in which case if you add in the TVIS plate it will push the inlet manifold out another ~30mm and thus hit your brake booster. like your mate said, best bet would be to get a bigport manifold and a TVIS plate, and remove the adaptor and current smallport intake manifold. you can get a FWD bigport manifold and just have it "cut and shut" as they say (throttle body welded on the other end) of you can get a genuine RWD bigport one (ae86 jap) and use that. then bolt your TVIS plate in between the head and your choice of manifold. either manifold you choose it shouldnt hit on your brake booster in this format.

no dramas mate, thats what forums are for! helping out! sweet deal on the 4age ke70, cost me more than 2000 just to put a 4age in mine... first things first, the standard discs, hubs, calipers, struts on the ke70 really have no usable parts that can be transfered onto anything else. its abit annoying like that, in that you have to pretty much buy a whole new strut/caliper/disc/hub to get any sort of an upgrade. i hear that celica front end isnt the greatest idea, something about it has a different king pin inclination, causes some way out there camber changes, and you need some camber tops to bring it back into check. (ive never used it, but just from reading around i get this vibe) unfortunately as soon as you mention the word "ae86" the prices sky rocket, but unfortunately it probably is the easiest solution. you would need to get the struts/hubs/calipers/discs/steering arms from an ae86 (slight brake upgrade too, from 210mm (ke70) up to 234mm (ae86)). i paid about 300 for mine, but turned out the calipers needed to be rebuilt ($240) i needed new discs ($250) and i bought new wheel bearings ($50) so add all those up and its a damn expensive excersise, for a "budget" corolla. but on the other hand discs and bearings are considered consumables, and its a good idea to get calipers rebuilt if you don't know the history of them etc. you can use the ke70 control arms and castor arms on the ae86 gear though. (they are exact same items) once you get the 86 front end your set for upgrades, alot of guys convert to coilovers (adj height + short stroke shocks), or some guys are content wiht just getting a pair of shocks and springs to work well. deciding factor here is how low you want to go. its a little bit out of the scope of this thread, but if you want to know more I'm sure we can dive into that. now xt130 (corona) front end ive not had much to do with, but ive heard good things. standard brakes are still solid but a fair bit bigger than the ke70 items. its the same size tube as the 86 so you can get shocks etc. this front end will be alot cheaper to buy from a wreckers etc, as its just boring old corona stuff. only real drama is the discs arent vented, which you may not need if its just a street car. i can't confirm what fits here and what doesnt (Steering arms etC) so maybe someone else can pipe in. btw if you need a TVIS plate let me know, i have a few spares...can post if needed.

trev name dropping again! haha yeah 86 struts for me. there are rumoured short stroke shocks for ke70 struts, i think it may have been from a VW of somet desciption. something quite obscure. i may in fact be talking garbage. if your keen maybe contact a suspension mob, and get them to crawl through some catalogues for something that might fit. or just try and get a hold of a catalogue with proper dimensions and have a crawl yourself. though its not much use anyway, since even if you did find some short stroke shocks, you are still limited to the ke70 brakes/steering arms. which you may want to upgrade later on. best of finding a different strut (ae86, corona, celica perhaps) to bolt in with the ability to get shocks easily.

far out that is cool! wanna hang onto those scales untill saturday? ive always wondered how heavy mine is. mine is currently in full "comfortable" street trim. (ie grosely overweight...)

yeah that paint work is awesome mate, well done. looks very respectable.

thast not an engineer then, thats a engine machinist. and your still not being very specific.... what sort of head work? standard machining? or porting etc? the guy i use is in wynnum, http://www.cylinderheads.com.au/ good guys, family business, they also own the mechanic next door. they arent much into performance stuff (porting etc). but they do a great job with standard machining. great communication too, always ringing up to check stuff before they do it.

I'm a really good engineer :D But i can only design you some piping systems. And perhaps maybe some supports to hold them up.

I'm using solid works right now, to do some FEA analysis. currently its solving my model, last time it took 7mins. remote desktop'ing into our super computer, 24GB of ram baby!!! hate to try and solve it on my desktop PC with its measly 4gb ram... for a simple DXF you can't go passed autocad, some things only need 2d. all our drafting here is done in autocad (easy stuff 2d, more complex 3d) and the drafters are fast at it. the console in autocad is great, once you learn the commands you can blast through drawings. and although solid works is great for design, its a pain in the ass for drafting. and if you are not careful in solid works you can screw things up real quick, editing parts that are linked to drawings and assemblies, and everything just falls appart.

i think i know what your on about, ive tried to answer your 3 points below: 1: i highly doubt you will be able to buy the STRUTS brand new from pedders as they are an OEM part. but definately buy new SHOCKS from pedders, don't waste your time with 2nd hand shocks. 2: i have only heard good things about the HSD kit, cheap too considering you get springs. plenty of people have used this kit with the xt130 struts. just need to confirm the diameter of the strut when you buy the kit. advantages over the ke36 spring seat is that the strut will be able to move inside your tower and combined with the camber plates you will actually have some adjustment available. other than that no real advantage other than the ability to get your heigh spot on. are you going to run short stroke shocks? unsure on those part numbers but you want to make sure your shocks are short enough to keep the coilover springs (ie short) captive. if you do use short stroke shocks you will prolly need to cut down the strut to suit, but you prolly already know this. 3: those camber plates look quite good, though i would highly recomend getting a machine shop to drill the holes in the top. you want to get that spot on. just take a standard strut top to a machinist (so he can get the bolt holes in the same spot) and say "drill these 2 camber plates like this". unless of course you have a drop drill and the proper sized drill. unsure how you determine the proper sized drill for that nurl on the studds (it will be an interference fit of some sort, which there are standards for), but it needs to be a very tight fit. edit: looks like e70van beat me to it!!! haha that will learn me for taking to long to post.

I'm not sure they will be the best for speakers though. may cause problems with bad connections etc, going over bumps the contacts will move around. in theory it should work fine, but it woulndnt surprise me if they caused troubles later in life when the contacts got a bit dirty. and yeah who wants to only be able to have speakers working with doors shut? when I'm working on my car i open both front doors and have the radio goin (i have splits in my front doors) cool idea for central locking though, cept as jono said you would need 4 contacts for the drivers door master solenoid.

http://www.yellowpages.com.au/ and http://www.yellowpages.com.au/search/listings?clue=panel+beater&locationClue=sydney+shire&x=24&y=22 and

haha thats what i was gonna say! and on a 4k, 0.5kw is like a 30% reduction in power. nice write up though. pretty easy to do by the looks of it.

i think that vent is there for a reason though... something to do with if you have all the windows down @ 100km/h then you need to release the pressure out of the car. other wise the backwindow takes all the pressure. something like that. either way there is a good reason for the vent. ever been in the back of a dual cab ute with all the windows down? the pressure waves almost burst your ears! holden crewman is a very good example... and SLW i think your signature is a bit big...isnt there a height limit on signatures?

yeah you should get new head bolts. and one of these suckers.

don't fix something that isnt broken;) is it blowing smoke? is it rattling? does it run smoothly? whats compression like? any blow-by? if all of these things are ok, it may very well go for another ~360,000kms if well maintained. cost? if you are serious about getting a professional to do it all....ring one up and ask, better yet go and see one and have a good chat about your options. just a note, to get a professional to completely rebuild your engine, is going to cost you an absolute fortune.

yep! because the original arguement was between the cars both of you are in at the time. imagine if a pilot of an F1-11 had a race in his CAR vs you in your CAR, and he lost....then he said to you..."well.....ner my F1-11 beats your car!" as for taking crap....meh i ignore it all.

you can however buy 12a housings, that are machined from 13B housings. unsure how they do it, but my mate showed me a website the other day. i think i am considering going 12a turbo in my ke70, as i have 2 brand new 12a housings sitting under my bed....

ah well that changes everything. by google pics looks just like a 4age. or maybe a bit like a 2tg perhaps. custom engine mounts, custom gearbox mount, custom tailshaft. wire it up, plumb it up. and that should be it. just have to make sure the engine doesnt physically hit on anything (intake on brake booster etc) i dare say you may be hard pressed finding someone who has done it before. if you have both the engine and the car. drop it in, and see how close everything is.