ke70dave

We are here to discuss cars, discussing requires words, and most of us appreciate when words are typed somewhat correctly.

who has seen the movie idiocracy? we don't want our scociety to turn out like that, I'm sure it all starts with bad punctuation and grammer. its all about trying to keep a high standard. youll notice this post of mine doesnt have perfect grammer/spelling. but it is readable by all members, words are the proper words not annoying shortened words. (eg 'da' instead of 'the')

nope. though can't be hard to wire in, plenty of people have done it. edit: the post above me has proven me half wrong.

yeah good mate, considerably better with the new front thats for sure.

well with all those mods you are going to require a fiar bit of fabrication, namely the engine/gearbox mounts. and then with the turbo engines you will probably require a bigger differential which is more custom stuff. there is not alot of difference between the gze and the SR20 in terms of difficulty, both need custom mounts, both need to be wired in, and both require "custom" interocoler piping. best bet before you start anything, go and find the engineer that you will signing it off, like i say everytime in this kind of thread, it doesnt matter one bit what rollaclub members think is legal, it depends what the guy that is signing it off thinks is legal. and unforuntaely even if one guy got something signed off as legal from one engineer, another engineer might not agree etc. theres a few build threads on here from guys doing the engine conversions you suggest (sr20, 4agze). most of it is custom anyway, so just check their threads out and pretty much everything will apply. oh and i woudlnt bother with the K motor, if you have the ability,the funds, and most importantly, the time, i would be getting to an EFI engine asap! like you say you will spend 100's if not 1000's on the K motor, and a stocko 4agze will still kill it. and be sooo muhc more driveable on the road, a 100kw n/a k motor is only good at doing one thing...full throttle!

and a 20V needs alot more cash thrown at it, ECU =2k or so, and all the dizzy/cooling mods=not cheap. i like what your doing with it trikz, looked tough when you had it at my place a few months back, looks even better now.

id be very surprised if they even looked at your dash for the RWC. shouldnt be a problem at all. car is looking good, i recenetly got a twinky wheel as well, such a nice wheel to drive with! wheel is a tad big, but about as good as it gets for standard legal wheels.

if someone really wants to steal your car, they will steal your car. they will bring a flat bed truck and just drag it up by the front bumper if they have to. and if i was going to steal a car i woudl bring a flat bed with a Faraday Cage around it, so the little GPS locater things didnt work!:P you just need to deter the joy riders. steering lock, an alarm, a kill switch maybe. but on a K motor if you can unlock the steering, just need a new wire between the battery and your coil, the same thing for the fuel solenoid, push start it down the road, and off you go... i think that the dinosaur on the roof is a far more effective solution.

it wasnt so much that the spring rate was the problem, it was the "suspension frequenecy" as they call it that was the problem, ie a combination of the springs and shocks. i ended up with 6kg springs, and my last set of coilovers were 4 way adj bridgestone ones, and on the lowest setting the shocks were still to stiff, though i was going for a grip setup. so if you can get a pair of coilovers that have adj damping that you can adjust alllllll the way down (or get soft non adj dampers, but thats VERY rare in s13 coilovers) good question! the main difference in the steering arms is the length of the arm between the tie rod connection, and point at which the strut rotates around. if you shorten this distance (in the case of the s13 arms, and the 86 powersteering arms) for the same amount of movement of the steering rack (ie steering wheel), you will get more rotation of the strut (ie wheel/tyre turning) if you have a look at this picture, you can see where the tie rod joins on on the left, and the hole that is aproximatly in the middle of the other two holes (to the right) is about where the pivot point will be. so the top one is the powersteering 86 arm and you can see its shorter than the standard arm. the s13 gear is shorter again, so you get even faster steering. and the s13 setup is able to steer further so you tend to get the crazy lock as well.

some nice photos there reed! thanks for that.

hahah brilliant! meh they are all old corollas, that arent cool at all, but they are fun to drive and can look tough.

haha damn i knew my name would be dropped here! first off all those claiming "it throws off the geometry" generally have next to no proof appart from what they have "heard" ALL mcpherson strut setups WILL experience bump steer, its inherant in the design. its just a case of ensureing that the worst of the bump steer effect is kept out of normal suspension travel. have a read here: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/s...o-86-*e7*/page4 on my little analysis of the s13 geometry. and ill copy my "summing up" post over. so i thought i would explain my experiences with the s13 gear and my new ae86 gear. old setup (had it for 4yrs), ca18 brakes, base adjustable and adjustable damping coilovers, standard mastercylinder. pros: cheapish, in a ke70 at least. epic lock out of the box. cons: weird steering compared to the 86 gear,steering tends to tighten up the more lock you wind on (i didnt notice it untill i drove with proper 86 stuff). s13 coilovers that are suitable for grip in light cars are VERY difficult to find. went through ~3 sets trying to find different ones, bought a few different spring rates along the way. i ended up with an ok setup, but it was still a little stiff. new setup: brand new everything, jap 86 calipers (rebuilt), vented discs, 40mm rca, kyb excel g inserts, 6kg springs (welded sleeve for coilovers) new brake lines, standard non-powersteering arms, conss: bloody expensive. (though that could be because i bought everything brand new) pros: steering is much more "normal" compared to s13 stuff, the effort required to turn from lock to lock is the same. a normal amount of track (though R31 arms have been sucessful in reducing track in s13 gear). its a much better setup compared to my s13 gear (though read on) so i have used both a "complete" ae86 setup (RCAs, jap brakes, coilovers yada yada) as well as a proper s13 setup, in the same car, and have used them back to back, so i belive i can make some pretty reasonable comparisons between them both. my oppinion is that both setups could be made to work well, its fairly obvios that the ae86 stuff works well straight out of the box since its based on standard equipment. but i still belive that the s13 gear could be made to work, but i did not like the "twitchyness" of the s13 gear. maybe if you bought some funky custom nuckels that reduced the steering speed of the s13 gear it might work well. though somepeople might like the REALLY quick steering. since driving around with standard 86 steering arms, although you do have to steer more, i find it easier to control, though i have not taken it through the twisty roads where the fast steering really was quite good. I'm a little hesitant to get the powersteering arms, anyone want to take me for a spin in a ke70/ae86 with power steering arms? to me the main draw back of the s13 gear was the difficulty in finding decent coilovers suited to grip (soft dampers that suit soft springs). its easy to find damper/spring combos that suit drifting but i was after more grip and unless i either bought brand new coilovers or had a pair revalved to suit it was difficult to find a good setup. and of course you can get new coilovers or get them revalved, but its not cheap, and the main calling card to s13 gear is its apparent cheapness. so to all the guys out there who plain out say "s13 gear is crap" i can say that is in fact not crap, it just needs a bit of work and planning to work well.

unlucky trev, hope you got it sorted! anyways, 3 cars in the end, 6 members. twas a good afternoon/evening! only one decent pic from me. i think reed has a few nice ones though.

unlucky mate, hope she gets better! and yeah best not to bring a 17month old out, i dare say it may be bloody cold at 10pm there... so anyone care to summarise the plan? yatala pies first right? let me know when you all will be at yatala and ill be there too.

few factors that you havent controlled there trev. how do you know you have exactly the same amount of each oil? looks to me like you may have just had more red stuff on that paint tin lid, thus it appeared my viscous. or less viscous...i can never remember which way it is....more runnier? a better way would be to put the oil in a thin tube, and drop something like a marble into it, and time how long it takes to get to the bottom of the tube.

and then once you figure all that out, you then realise that not all 195/50/r15's are the same! i just got some federal 595 RSR-s, and they appear to be quite a bit wider than the kumho's i had on there. the kumhos sat flush with the rim (7" rim) where as the federal's are a bit proud of the rim (more of a bulge, opposite to stretch?). both tyres are 195/50R15. not that it botheres me i have oodles of room in the ke70 guards, but if your right on the limit of fitting, some tyres will scrub and others wont!

meh your coming SLW, I'm sure we can find 15bucks for ya. and since you gave me those 4a parts for for free its probably fair! no more excuses! also pretty sure I'm bringing a +1 rollaclub member, ben (stixty, or however its spelt) will prolly come in my car.

yeah the interewebs is somewhat incredible in japland. i found that there was free wifi everywhere in the hotels we stayed at (as well as shopping centres), and it was bloody fast wifi too.

ahh nice, so not tooo much castor. ive currently got +2.5 caster, and -1 camber. could do with a bit more castor me thinks. though I'm pretty close to the (somewhat standard) front guard as it is. ps. your secret is safe with me.

I'm sure its been mentioned before in this thread, but how much castor/camber do you run on the front there? looks like a fair bit of castor judging by how much its cambering in that photo there.

tell him to go to the drive ins for his birthday;)

which mx5?

well fellas, the rally has been post poned this weekend, so I'm free to come to the drive ins. so keep me in the loop! and SLW if the only thing holding you back is $15, I'm sure we can pay for you. edit: i may need a push start after 4hrs of my radio on though...

this is a very cool car mate, that front end is going to look tough as with that new bar. i don't mind those wheels either, definately suit the car.

damn nice trueno mate! love the look. as for me 15x7+13 ssr mesh with 195/50 tyres front guards have been pumped out a bit, so the front wheels tend to sit in a bit at the front.