ke70dave

first result from a google search of "ke55 studd pattern" http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=15077 and as for locked diff, no idea, but id advise against it.

hmmmm yeah i think i still consider that a throw away article. sounds far to highly strung to be working in 10yrs.

far out that inlet manifold is HUUUGGGEE. surely those horizontal pipes could be at least 80% shorter than that? though i do like how the injectors are setup, that is quite cool.

haha don't worry about sounding silly, at least you are speaking in proper english so we can actually understand your questions! the wire in your carby will prolly be the fuel solenoid, my understanding is that its an electric valve that stops fuel flow when car is turned off (controlled by ingnition). only some carbys have it, not all. to be honest your engine bay is pretty good atm, i suggest giving it a huge clean (Degreaser, or steam cleaner) and then go from there. there is no real reason to start pulling stuff off for the sake of pulling stuff off. it could potentially create more dramas if you ever have to put it all back on again. one thing you could do though, get your RWC as it is. then get a webber carburetta and a pair of extractors, then you can throw ALL those pipes and crap in the bin, as the webber needs hardly any pipes etc at all. and with the extractors any sort of exhuast gas circulation can be binned as well. edit: just noticed you have extractors alreay, so your half way there, just get a cheap webber and your set. will make for a nice simple engine bay. and with the extractors/carby it will have a few extra horsepowers as well.

the thing in the 2nd picture, attached to your block, is your oil pressure sender. (either a guage or light in your dash, prolly just a light) the other thing, I'm not sure, i had one on my old 4k, and unplugged it...and nothing changed.....its connected to the carby yeah?

hmm yeah point noted. in that case if you can't find anything specific for ae71, then supercheap (or any auto parts store) have a fair range of moulded hoses, maybe just try and match the ae71 one to one. as hiro sais, you only really want the bends to be the same.

have i missed something here...but whats wrong with just using gineric heater hose? (if its needed to be replaced that is) cheap as!

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence of ever trying. and an oldy but a goodie, Better to be thought of as an idiot, than to open your mouth (or keyboard) and remove all doubt

one step ahead of ya, though I'm not going to esk, but ill be at the one that is next weekend, out near the gap. speaking of which, ill have to give you a buz chris to work out whats goin on with that. in other news i checked out this ke70 the other day, it really is quite a masterpeice! chris and tony really do love their cars!!

it is amazing though that in a day and age where talk of "renewable" energy is such a massive topic topic, and everyone is going on about the environment and recycling, but the item with the most technology and materials that almost everyone (in the western world) has and uses multiple times a day, is designed as a throw away artical? why can't the engines be serviced (machined etc)?? why not make them less powerful but able to last 30yrs, like the corollas that we are all playing with? rather than be the latest wiz bang car for 5yrs, and then have to throw it away. stupid backwards world.

not really sure what your asking, the hoses arent special, just *whatever size it is* (1/2"?) heater hose, cheap as from supercheap. if it doesnt come off with good pull, or twist it on the fitting to break the seal, else slice it with a knife. don't pull too hard asthe fittings are only copper, and if they are coroded they will bend/crack easy. nice looking engine bay btw.

yeah thats what I'm wondering..... i was thinking about getting a pair of ke30 arms for my ke70, currnetly just running stock ae86 arms. everyone wants 100 bucks + for standard control arms.....i bet i can get some ke30 ones for alot less than that.

ah very cool. we put 1.6L applause engine into a normal charade that looked like that one, that went hard enough, let alone the extra head/cam combo of the tomato.

can't wait to check out those vids at home, hvaent seen a genuine detamosa one before. thats a turbo yeah? 3clr? can't remember any details, my mate used to be right into these, they are great fun, i bet they are even better on the track.

some of those are fairly understandable, but they certainly threw the book at you on the others though (re, wires, AC pulley and numberplates) since when is it illegal to not have an AC pulley....?

very cool members car mate, i love the innovation. i also like the idea of mechanical spark advance control (advancing off boost, and advancing less on boost) with the turbo, taz rx and I were having a bit of a convo about this not long ago, we think it could be done relatively "Easy" with a few strategically chosen and positioned vacume/boost actuators, tuning might be a pain though.... can't wait to see what you come up with though.

use your phone. http://www.bodykits.com.au/body-kits.html http://www.spoilershop.com.au/store/

ah yeah, I'm not sure you would want to run s13 arm on a ke70 anyway, i think they are miles to long anyway. pluss the ball joint is a funky size (not same as ke70 anyway)

SLW just remember it is also the silvia hub design changes things, so you can't really compare your s13 gear with putting s13 control arms into ke strut. the hub position and angle and king pin angle etc all changes with the s13 stuff. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...ma_Control_Arms there is a small amount of info in there about control arms. i do recall seeing a better post somewhere, but can't seem to find it. http://www.garagedori.com/showthread.php?tid=753 this is interesting, seems that ke30 arms are same length as the oh so loved xt130 arms. +10mm on the ke70 items.

hang on fellas. he sais he has a 1987, which as someone said would make it an AE82 of some description but you are all suggesting he looks at SLW's ke70???? hmm... plenty of uber ugly body kits for the ae82 out there. go and see a body kit shop. i remember the days of lookng through hot4's at the vielside ae82's.

care to explain what is wrong with 4psi on 11:1 c/r? i mean its not ideal, but its not thaaaatt bad. and i don't think the idea is "dickhead" worthy. nothing wrong with high compression turbo engines. good tune will either make or break it.

so you think sex looks like spoiler and a body kit? what ever happened to sex education in schools? i knew schools were bad.....but surely not this bad.

probably, but if its only a door window, you can put a new one of those in in about 5mins.

wreckers may sell you one for cheap, but you will prolly have to get it out yourself. ive never bought a new window (i assume your talking about the front windscreen?) but i thought the going rate was about $250...

well you can can get away with out using those coolant lines on the throttle body. on my 16V 4age i don't use them, my idle screw for some reason wont open enough to let it idle at ~900rpm so i just use the main butterfly to control the idle, crack it open a little bit withi the adjuster screw thing. idles perfectly at 900rpm in all conditions. and its been like that for almost 2yrs now. unless you have aircon or powersteering then i see no reason to use any sort of idle up systems. espcially since that wax thing that hiro is talking about, i doubt mine is in working condition after all these years. in my car you need to baby it abit for the first 5mins of driving, as it tends to stall a bit easier (since no cold engine idle up), but you should be babying the engine anyway when its cold. oh and when my brothers drive it to move it in the morning, they stall it at least 3 times before they get it out the driveway:P