ke70dave

that is what i am also wondering... the rest of the story is awesome, good find. Gota be lucky sometimes!

what i hate, is when small jobs turn into large jobs for stupid reasons. example, changing the oil and oil filter in the ke70 yesterday, estimated time, 30mins. it went like this -jack up car and put on jack stands (my car is far to low to get under with it off stands...) -find oil catcher, undo sump plug, place oil catcher, go inside boil kettle, make coffee while oil drains. -undo oil filter, throw in bin, fit new filter. -drink coffee. -do up sump plug, put in new oil, run engine, check level again. done. -go inside to toilet, come out and spot a small puddle of oil under car. -sump plug is leaking. -so i do it up, and its still leaking, but only slowly. drop car off stands -drive to supercheap auto, buy sump plug gasket (service guy assures me its correct size), but i buy some gasket material at same time "just in case" -get home, drain oil into brand new oil catcher (to preserve my brand new penrite oil) -new sump gasket doesnt fit, make new gasket from material. -do up sump plug with new gasket, it still kinda leaks, but only weeping out. -tip new oil back into engine. -drop car onto ground, walk away annoyed and decide to play video games for several hours. elapsed time? 3hrs 15mins. and i still need to put the correct sized proper gasket in.... i should have left the bloody old oil in there!!!!!

damn thats what i was gonna say!!! haha haha cool car though mate, really like it. and the colour is fantastic.

ah sorry my mistake, i was just reading off the wiki page, they must be refering to the jap cars or something.

faaairrllyy broad question you got there. plenty of choices, if your talking $5000 and sporty...ish, and relatively new (compared to the cars we play with) then you are probably looking at a FWD mid 90's hatch back. the corolla of that era isnt bad, 7afe? (1.8 DOHC efi) thing, which has a bit of go to it, my mum has one of these, not a bad car, but not that sporty. the celica of that era is the 5th or 6th generation, 5th being the one with popup headlights,6th being the one with the 4 round headlights. combinatinos of 3sge, 3sfe and 7afe here. the 3sfe i think is somewhat underated, mate had an st162 (4th gen) with a 3sfe, and it went very well for a "economy" engine. it went even better with the 3sge we put into it though. the st162 in particular handles VERY well in stock form. not a bad car to drive either. never driven a 5th or 6th gen, but I'm sure they go alright too. but if your not locked into corollas, the pulsar of that era was not bad, the SSS has the oh so worshiped sr20. mate had one of these and it went alright, plenty of go in a small car. but you may be hard pressed finding one that isnt thrashed. best bet would be to run a car sales search for anythign between 4000 and 5000 and see what your options are. hell you could even pick up a nissan silvia for 5000, plenty of non turbo ones going for that price in fairly good condition. or even a turbo automatic one is cheap now, then just convert it to manual if you want.

just remember that the japanese lanugage is totally different structre than english, so if you are trying to mix the two together then its going to be difficult. and either way, ive heard japanese guys talking in japanese on drifting videos, and they always say "hachi roku" so thats good enough for me:P english language is a bit silly, since ae86 isnt actually "A E eighty six" its "A E eight six" (as redwarf sais its an acronym where the 8 and 6 mean differnet things) but us english speakers have converted the "eight" and "six" into "eighty six", i reckon because its easier to say...and possibly because thats how we say "86"...."eighty six" (86 being the number after 85, not seperate eight and six) and just for fun.... eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6 eighty six 8 6 eight six 8 6eighty six...seven

i don't know the K motor specifics, but its all about combustion chamber volume. if you put a 3k head on a 4k block and the compression goes up, then the volume of combustion chamber inside the head must be smaller on the 3k head than on the 4k head. and visa versa, i assume if you were to put a 4k head on a 3k block, the compression ratio would go down, since the 4k head has more volume then the 3k head. and then you got dished vs non dished pistons, the dished ones have more volume than the non dished ones etc. and combinations of all these different things can either provide a higher compression, or a crappy low compression. depends what you use.

ive had a few RC cars over the years, started off witha tamiya super hornet about 8yrs ago, epic car, with weak as rear suspension mounts. glued that thing back together so many times, and it just came back for more. then moved onto onroad, got a kyosho TF3, another excelent car, used to go through belts quite often, was wicked fast even with standard engine, and handled great. still go this, but its had all the good parts pilphered. then i got a tamiya tt01?, not a bad car, but knowwhere near as good as TF3. sold that not long ago. then i bought my first petrol car, a kyosho Fw05t, wicked fast car as well, the 2-speed is awesome, had alot of fun tuning the thing trying to make it run right, but i kept breaking things, and i sold my remote with the tt01. so currently it sits in a box, with the engine wrapped up in an oily rag, with no radio gear.....dying. should get it going again, but it might be cheaper and easier to just buy a brand new one.... id love to buy an RC plane, but scared i will destroy it on first outing.

just on a side note, what 4age emissions gear are you refering too? ive got a bunch of 4age parts down stairs that werent required to make my engine run. but none that looks like any emissions stuff? 4age didnt run any EGR or anything as far as i know?

its ok though, CA-rolla knows what hes talking about... i mean check this sig, hes good mates with JP's Performance Fabrications qualified boilermaker. steam engines have boilers...

well the question is, what do YOU want to do ? Q1, do you want to go faster in a straight line? Q2, do you want to go round corners fast? Q3, do you just want to make it sound like its going faster? Q4, do you just want to make it look like its going faster? Q5, do you want to feel like your going faster? Q6, do you not want to go fast at all, but just impress the ladies, uneducated peers and 14yr old kids? to these options i offer the following, A1, new engine, either 4age 16V or 20V, given you are on your Ps, only the 16V is an option. A2, suspension modifications, decent springs/shocks, swaybars etc (what i would do) A3, sports exhaust, cannon, pod filter. clacker on the spokes of your front left wheel. A4, paint it red, add flames, and some HID head lights. A5, Bucket seat, decent sports steering wheel. A6, neon lights, subwoofers, fake carbon fibre inserts, monster tacho, isotta steering wheel. welcome to rollaclub! nice looking clean ae80 you go there.

theres a small chance i may get in trouble at work for busting out in uncontrollable laughter.....

geezzz louise!!! 5L!!!! man throw that 4k in the bin and get another one!! 5L oil for 2000km 2000km = ~200L/fuel so for every litre of fuel your using thats 25ml of oil!!!! Not far off a two stroke.

i see what you did there...... --- as for the ae82, i would be looking at a 3sge before a v6. pretty sure there was a 3sge ae82 on toymods? i recall seeing one somewhere anyway. v6 sounds like far to much work for what would end up being a heavy front end in a light car. though maybe if you can get a relatively small all alloy V6 (do they exist?), it may trump the 3sge on weight, but i dunno have to do some research.

haha i like your style with the mac's.... yeah admitedly i felt kinda bad seeing ~$27k spent on a brand new mixing desk, but we seriosuly have run out of chanells.....and we use it for christmas/easter big performances, so hopefuly we get the use out of it. wynnum baptist church is my home church. which do you go to?

yeah pretty much what sam sais. since you have a complete doner car, that will make your job alot easier. i suggest you just transfer everything over from the other car. fuel tank/lines/wiring. pretty much anything that is differnet in the EFI car, put it into your other car. then you will be laughing. it will be a bit of work (quite a bit of work actually.....), but just put both cars side by side, and as you take stuff off the doner car, transfer it straight to the other car. can't go wrong that way. did a similar thing a few years ago with a mates st162 celica, bought a good condition, but smashed st162 SX (3sge) car. and just transfered the entire car (engine, brakes, suspension, wiring, fuel system) to the good shell. started first time and didnt give any dramas.

i was wondering how long it was going to take before that photo of the rota wheel was going to be shown... that photo is what some people refer to as an internet phenominon, it manages to make its way into almost every wheel thread on the internet!! heres one for ya, this is an SSR wheel not as catastrophic as that rotor, but it is cracked. ANY wheel subject to enough forces will crack/break. its an alluminium alloy and alloy is a stiff material, and is subject to cracking. my mate had a set of SSR wheels on his 32 GTR, and he found a fairly large crack in them, just like the crack above, got it repaired fine, but yeah it was cracked. here is a BBS wheel, notice the crack right through one of the spokes. there are many claims made by people about cheap wheels not using R&D or proper testing, lets see some proof hey? now i know some of you are going to say, well the BBS wheel and SSR wheel didnt fail catastrophically like the rota wheel. which is definately correct, and it is what you want. but the BBS and SSR both did fail, so just because its a jap brand doesnt mean it wont fail. btw when i say "fail" its refering to the wheel cracking. having said that, ill still buy jap wheels, as 2nd hand they are alot cheaper than these dodgy knock offs. and the dodgy knock offs look....terrible.

hmmm well first...tell me how are we supposed to know how many cans of paint you need if you havent even put up a picture of the bit you are trying to paint?

Well if you are serious about fixing the rust, I suggest you rip that sticker off, scratch the hell out of the rust with a wire brush, and drown it in rust converter. Do that a few times....untill there is no brown rust left. then give it coat of primer paint at least. this is by no means a fix, but it will slow the rust down, or may even stop it going any further untill you are able to get it fixed properly. once you have done this, and if there is still a hole, then maybe put a sticker back on, so that no water gets inside your car. but keep in mind this is not a proper fix.

maybe we can try another strategy..... we will post pics and you say "better" or "worse". ill start.

c'mon mate make an effort! that was close to impossible to read, i think it went something like this... I would have put pics up, but i don't have a pc, i do everything from my phone. So i have one hole above the right tail light and along the bottom of the windows. Yeh i havnt had time to take my car to a panel beater, but i live on the out skirts of an industrial (estate?) anyways, so i have plenty to choose from lol. Just posting to get the great rolla club advice. and since you have plenty of panel beaters to choose from, my advice is to go and talk to one of them:P oh and if you are refering to the rear windows, that going to require some nice welding.

yep thats what I'm thinking. solid state= it will run forever... Assuming that there isnt any crazy EMF business coming out of that coil which will blow up the "big" transistor. though i reckon that the relay will go for a pretty long period of time as well. not like you are going to be on the limiter all the time? think about how many times the indicator relay clicks! i also wonder about the possibility of desigining the circuit so that it doesnt do what taz explains (the chattering of the relay, constant off and on). put a small capacitor in there somewhere, so when the relay activates it stays on for say 1/4 second minimum. maybe? i dunno...

haha another quality thread! (pun intended taz) do yourself a favour and go and talk to a panel beater. you know...actually drive the car to them, and show them the rust. You have included no pictures or details on the rust. how on earth are we supposed to be able to help you?;)

i wonder if you could achieve the same thing but using solid state components? a chunky transistor instead of the relay?

in that first picture is it missing the back wheel????? other than that looks good, just need to get 4 wheels the same! must go alright with the 4age in there.