ke70dave

just had a good read through this thread! i bet that car is fun to drive even with the 3tc, gonna be even better with that new power plant. as for fibreglass. i did a bit of figbreglassing a few years back (mainly speaker/subwoofer enclosures). the best place to get fibreglass from is boat shops. can usually get 4L of the stuff (including hardener) for about 80 bucks. I'm unsure how you make flares though...as when i did mine, it turned out quite rough (just the bare cross cut glass fibres). but those flares appear to have a gell coat (or maybe its just paint...) on them. but it was ok for me as i just covered it in carpet.. the way i applied the fibre glass was pretty...er...agricultural... i applied masking tape to the areas that i was trying to mould (but didnt want the glass to stick too). there may be a better medium to use here, but masking tape worked fairly well, and it was cheap. and it doesnt get eaten by the resin. then i cut up my glass fibres into usable peices (200x100mm perhaps), you might be able to use glass matting, but i think thats fairly expensive compared to the cross hatch style (ramdomly placed) glass fibres. i then mixed up a small batch of the resin (around 250mm, i used a cup from my mothers kitchen...;)). read the instructions on the bottle as to how much hardener you have to put in, too little and it will never go off, to much and it will be going off infront of your eyes. The right amount and you have about 10mins before it starts setting, and overnight before its completley cured. then i used a peice of boad, layed down my glass fibre mat, and poured enough resin on (or use a really cheap paint brush to "paint" the resin on" untll the matt is completly saturated). you may find that at this stage the resin is starting to break down the glass, so you have to move quickly to pick up the glass matt and apply it to where ever you want to put it. the chemical reaction is an exothermic one, so if you can feel the glass getting hot...hurry up!!! in your case it may be easier to put the glass matting onto the moulds, and then apply the resin (making sure the glass fibres are soaked with resin, with formentioned cheap paint brush), but in my case i was applying the glass in awquad places (boot of a car), so needed to apply the resin outside and then transport the glass into the car (messy...!!) make sure you use gloves! i didnt...and i was itchy for days. in your case maybe do two or three layers of glass, if you have the time, maybe wait for a layer to dry before applying the next, so you can see how strong it is. then i guess to get a good finish, trim off the edges, start sanding and apply some paint! hope this helps hey. with my experience, with fibreglass you can't really go wrong. especially for cosmetic stuff like this. I'm sure the method would be more important for loadbearing fibreglass, but i say have a crack at fibreglassing something else small first ,just to get a feel of how much time you have to use the fibreglass etc.

wasnt that started by the same guy that started this thread? hmm.. either way as trev knows ive been playing steering wheel roulette lately, and the best method ive found is what is described in the last post in that thread. sit in the drivers seat with the nut undone, but still on the thread. pull really hard on the steering wheel. get a helper to gently tap the nut with a hammer, you may need someting like a socket extension to get onto the nut easily, give it a tap and it should come off easily. don't belt the hell out of it, or you will just ruin the nut/thread.

i tell ya what, my old standard 4k was flat out trying TO 5000 revs, let alone past it!! i had no problem not overreving it:P jono that dc relay kit you just posted is a pretty neat device, i assume its just a transistor driving that relay. though that comes with a nice little PCB. but yeah that kit + a cheap shift light = dodgy rev limiter. and yeah forget about any sort of fuel cut on the carby, and pluss you prolly don't want to be leaning out the engine at all, just switch off the spark, and watch your mufflers explode:)

and yeah an aftermarket regulator will have no trouble with the 044, i just hope you can put up with the noise!! haha i got some bundy from the website "Tweakit" it was $30 in fact...i still have it and never used it, so if you want it, you can have it for whatever it sells at including post. its 8mm stuff i belive, prolly 5m of it, enough for one line up the car.

ah your laughing then. i dunno about canberra, but up here in QLD its alot easier to get something engineered that is already registered. rather than getting everything engineered in an unregistered car, then trying to get it registered with the mods. complete pain in the assss.

why not just get it on the road with the standard diff?

i can't see 10k worth of work there...? well my paint job cost me less than 500, but yours looks ok as it is, leave that till the end. a tune, its a carby so wont cost much. carpet, 200bucks off ebay guages install, few hours pending location. fix seats....meh that can wait:P dash pad, just get one that is good enough to use to get you on the road. engineerd? no idea costs in canberra. you may need bigger brakes to get that engineered. have you spoken to an engineer?

10k?!?! got a list of everything left to do?

hahah clubby2084 thats funny as. i had a 2 week old half finished ice coffee asplode under my rear seat once (threw my toolbox on the back seat and it clipped the bottle...), i got rid of most of it easily, as it only went on the metal floor, managed to miss the carpet. though it did smell prrreeettttyyy bad for a few days. definately some 4 x 100 window winding action for a while there. on another note, has anyone else noticed that imported japanese cars all seem to smell familiar? few mates have R32's/s13's/r33's/cefiro's. and we all reckon they smell the same. i dunno if its something they do to the interiours in customs etc. we just say "smells like japan"... (though ive been to japan, and it doesnt smell like this...) its not like its a bad smell, just smells the same.

man thats awesome! great looking colour, and those wheels are cool as. do you have any closer pics of that inlet manifold/charger combo? the ke10 really is a great shape!

well its not the stiffness of the suspension, but the amount of "droop" that the suspension has, ie. the amount the wheels fall away from the car when the car is raised. short stroke shockabsorbers take care of this. they will hold up the diff more, and not let the diff hit the exhaust. i have an overdiff exhaust, and I'm fairly sure that when i hit a decent bump, my diff goes up and hits the exhaust. its even worse when theres someone sitting in the back!! nice work on the exhaust though, should be good when its all done. and yeah T series drums are fairly chunky looking!

just for reference, the standard fuel presure regulator on my 4age was unable to handle the pressure/flow of the bosh o44 pump. pressure was far to high, and causing the engine to overfuel itself. that 044 is a monster pump (200L/hour @ 5 bar) 5 bar!!!! thats 72psi. standard 4age fuel presure is ~32psi. no wonder the fuel pressure regulator couldnt handle it!! if you havent alreay bought that 044 i would seriously be looking at a smaller pump, there is no point pumping fuel around constantly, and at a stupid pressure, if it is not needed. all the stats on all the bosch fuel pumps are available on the website, so work out your worst case scenario on how much fuel you are going to use, and work out a pump that can supply twice that. http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/...s/fuelpumps.pdf excess fuel pumping just adds extra heat to your fuel, which isnt great. oh and not to mention the NOOOIISEEE that comes out of one of these pumps. it will litterally drive you mad.

hey mate, welcome to the rollaclub! throw up a members ride, lets see some pics of this beast! as for your questions: re: engineer. ring an engineer! the engineer is going to be the one signing off, so only his oppinion matters. and although its good to hear other peoples experiences, not all engineers want the same thing. so its best to speak to one in person. re: strength of diff. depends how you drive it, the Ta22 diff will be a T series i think, which are fairly strong. though some people have broken them with standard 4ac's, other people have had success for years with them with 4agte's. depends how harsh your left foot is. re: brake upgrade can't help you hear much, though have a read through the members ride sections, few ke30's with chunky brakes getting around. hopefully someone can jump in here and help out with this.

anyone here go to citipoint church? in carindale? was there last night, saw a sweet lookign ke10 or ke11, it was white. had shiny silver wheels on the front (didnt look to close, kinda looked like longchamps from a distance) and standard black ones on the back. looked pretty low, but also pretty tidy.

yeah apparnetly he didnt get defected for the coilovers, he got done for the the car being too low. ive been trying to find information like that that is applicable in queensland. not having much luck.... thats interesting about the permanent locking thing that doesnt allow you to go lower than legal height. one way of doing it i guess. though i belive that there are a few "coilover" companies around that are considered ADR approved (places like fulcrum sell TEIN coilovers) and i wonder if they have that permanent limiter thing on them. ive discovered that trying to find what is legal and what isnt, is a complete pain in the ass.

ahh man, your car is great! so nice and clean, and i love the mods.. i really think you should put those SSR mk3's back on though. alternatively send them to me:P

thats a pretty nice wagon mate! got any pics of the rotary one?

for the side indicators i recall seeing a few commondore clear indicators that someone had fitted to a ke70, looked quite good. though just gota be careful as the commondore were roundish, so looked newer. i assume youve punched in "clear indicator" into ebay and seen what comes up? heaps of real cheap knock offs that may work well.

name dropping i see there trev...... hehe but yes if you need the ecu give me a pm, its just sitting on my desk at home. not a bad looking ae82 there though, 300 bucks is a good deal. you will prolly be able to sell all the ae82 twinky stuff for a fair bit! (brakes etc) as for the celica box, which one were you refering to? as any of the "W" boxes require a funky bellhousing (A-W) to "bolt" up.

i agree with what philby sais. howeever twinky i stilll love what you have made!!! might be better idea to get a nice chunk of perfectly flat steel and mount your gear to it (its prolly going to be heavy), get it machined flat perhaps. i would also avoid using those poly bases on your mounts as any flex will give inaccurate results. (same deal as the tea towel) i do like philbys idea of doing it in the motor, but thats not really practical if you don't have the motor appart at the time i guess. but nice work though!

just cause I'm a nice guy http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...alve_Clearances interestingly i tried google as an academic excercise to check the availability of such information. i searched "4kc valve clearance" and the answer was found in the first link (wasnt a rollaclub link)...

if you want proper guard flaring, go to a panel beater. since your in brisbane, "perfection body works" in wynnum does good work. he does alot of imports and custom cars, i got a quote once for guard flaring, i think it was about $100/side without paint.

thats a neat looking ke70. 5k should go well in it! i thought you said you de-stickered it...whats that UNIT sticker doing there!!haha

hhah yeah maybe not silicon. from what i can gather he actually does a pretty good job in that article though instead of silicon/fibreglass, i reckon he should have just filled up all those cuts with weld. or at least put some weld in, then some bog/glass. i really don't like it when people flare guards and its sorta curvy and kicks out/upish. if anything it should curve down around the wheel. you tend to get that sharp edge that looks like it might take off someones leg if you drive close enough to them. i like those wheels though...

and while your there pick up a wideband for $200 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovat...-3769-p-41.html and either find a laptop with a serial port, or get one of those serial-usb converters off ebay. and your set! it does turn into an expensive procedure though, but you are getting pretty good stuff. ~280 MS2, ~230 wideband, figure something out for the dizzy (unsure if the electronic k motor dizzy will work), youll need a few sensors (air temp, water temp). figure out what to do about a TPS. so not much change from say 700AUD. then whatever you need to get a k motor EFI intake manifold (either make one, or buy an expensive OEM one that fits). worth it on a stock 5k? i say hell no:P