ke70dave

worst advertisement ever. have a look down at your keyboard, you will see a few interesting buttons. Namely...THE ENTER KEY as well as other friends such as the full stop and comma keys.

also check out the new haltech sprint range, can get something decent for under $1000. being a turbo engine you have more choice of ecus as they will easily run on a map tune (manifold pressure vs revs) with an N/A you are a little bit restricted as its best to get an ecu that can run both map and tps. to get the driveability in the low tps readings. the dizzy mods it will depend on what your ecu accepts as a signal, from what i understand easiest way is to use a GZE cas, or i belive that a small port 4age dizzy is similiar to the gze cas, where as the bigport dizzy is a little bit more basic, though it can be used if modified correctly. (once again pending the ecu accepted signal) so you will need to pick an ecu, and then find out what signal it requires, then figure out how to mod the dizzy.

for some reason i have always been under the impression that irriduium spark plugs were for turbo cars as a few years ago my mate tried a copper ones in his rb20 and his car kept miss firing and then as soon as he got the irriums it was fine for a quite a while so I'm not sure what was going on there he has just bought irridums from then on and never had a problem i don't think its worth buying them for a standard car non turbo car just get the cheap copper ones as they are about one quarter the price if not less maybe they make a better spark maybe they don't who knows if copper ones work then just use them and as for the puncutation yes please use a bit of punctuation in your posts as it is very difficult to read and generally if i see someone has posted up something and seen they have not put alot of effort into presenting their post then i have to ask myself should i put the effort into my post to give them the information in a presentable fashion or should i just move on its just general courtesy really

damn another cool thing i missed when i was in japan. make sure you get heaps of pics to make us all jelous.

is that at the toyota megaweb in tokyo?

yeah but i said i was comparing front brakes (not rear). (disregarding the ability/inability to swap, more the actual size that comes stock) and i am aware of the rear brake situation on jap/ausi ae86s. it was more of a passing comment that is fairly irrelevant, and somewhat offtopic.

welll i guess you are right. it makes perfect sense for them to be bigger. just you see so alot of 86 guys in awe of the 86 Jap brakes, when in fact the FWD car (that tends to cop a bit of slack for being FWD) has bigger brakes stock.

i am becoming a little worried at users inability to use the wonderful resource that is google.com? punched in "rear disc upgrade for ae92" first link, some good options in here as well as some very good info. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=142 theres a few good threads around that contain disucssions on this. apparnetly the ae92 SX/GTI front discs are actually bigger than JDM ae86 dics!! haha 86 got ripped off by a FWD.

mmm brand new paint, that will make this car complete. ill have to drop round some time and check out this beast in the flesh. youll have to sell me some more stuff matty:P

crap just realise the discussion has swayed from CA18 back to K motors. my post has become redundant, mods can delete.

have you located the flasher unit itself? sounds like it may have 2 seperate relays (for left and right) and your right one may be on the blink (pun intended!)

i think i know what you are refering to. though basically you are saying that instead of using an S13 LCA you want to use the standard corolla one? i believe this is possible if you can find that magical ball joint that fits into the corolla LCA but has the right taper/diameter of the s13. I'm fairly sure this exists, have a search on toymods, i think i saw it on there. might have been some weird magna or cresida? something odd it was.

WHAT!!! better not be, been looking forward to it...... btw i assume "TRD" is you tony? that is a sweet looking steering wheel, where do i get one from?

hard to diagnose with out being there, but your starter motor only requires 3 things to spin the engine 1, ground, so make sure your engine has a ground strap attached to it. 2, constant power, this is the chunky wire attached to your starter motor that goes straight from your battery. 3, the trigger wire, this is the signal from the ignition key that shoots off the solenoid in the starter and gets it spinning. i suspect that that random wire you have may have something to do with #3, so have a look at your starter motor and locate the small trigger wire and follow it and see where it goes. then let us know how you go with that. a quick check you can do is put a multi meter between the large terminal on your starter (the constant) and ground, and you should get 12V across that. this checks both your engine ground and your constant (though if your engine ground is crap, it may show up 12V with the meter, but not have enough juice to turn it over, but lets hope that isnt the case!) also put your multi meter between that random wire and ground, and hit the start key. just to see what happends...

a reference to "lime" perhaps? i like it when cars get a name from a circumstance that occured. my mates car is called "grettle" cause when he used to drive "enthusiastically" his sister would say "settle grettle!"....and it sorta stuck...for the last 6yrs.

i just signed up to paypal last night with my mastercard debit card.... see how we go hey, will keep limited funds in that account incase it all goes bad:P

thats alot of camber!!! i like what youve done in the boot, tempted to do something simliar.

ive never worked on one. but i think we had one of these at work, was definately a BA. was a style side one (not alluminium tray) nice to drive appart from the fact there is a MASSIVE blind spot where you usually do shoulder checks. was the very first thing i noticed when i drove it. and I'm the kind of driver that shoulder checks at every opportunity (i use mirrors too, but prefer to shoulder check) and it was VERY frustrating. though i assume this is a problem with most utes. also didnt seem that powerful, stupid automatic changed gears real slow. and the electronic throttle seemed to be rather disconnected from what the engine was actually doing.... edit: drove a brand new XR6 recenetly (do they do a ute version?) now that was a nice car to drive.

c'mon mate, its got freaking titanium bolts. i think anything with titanium bolts instantly becomes a master peice:P

you are lucky, i just fitted 86 gear to my ke70, required: ae86 struts ae86 steering arms (bolt spacing is different apparnetly from ke70 to ae86) you can use the rest of your ke70 stuff (control arms, castor arms, top hat) though i *think* there is a difference between the ke70 and ae86 top hat in terms of the castor you get. if you want a pair of stocko ae86 top hats i have a pair you can have for pretty cheap. (yes I'm trying to offload my junk! i have to much!!)

sorry Hiro but this is a technical forum, your common sense is not welcome here.

i think they have forgotten a certain mercedes 300sl or perhaps a jaguar e-type no way is a corolla EVER going to be a sexy car:P

i suggest putting thermostat back in.

can't help you with the conversion questions, though i imagine custom mounts for everything is a good starting point. but there is only one way to see if its going to be legal or not, and thats to call an engineer in your state. doesnt matter what we think, only matters what the guy who will be signing it off thinks.

to be perfectly honest i would suggest not buying all the individual bits, but try and buy either a smashed car, or a bolt in package that someone is selling as parting out their car. i did 4age conversion in my ke70 and i spent around $3000. (including everything from crossmembers to pedal boxes to exhausts) but my mate managed to buy a complete bolt in package for his car for $1500. some guy was desperate and was parting out his car. both essentially the same thing, just that i had to buy alot of my stuff brand new stuff (clutch, machine flywheel,exhaust, gaskets etc) where as his package came ready to run. so i say save your pennies, and keep your eye out on guys parting out their cars, might take a while for the right deal to come up but one will. and I'm not talking about just posting up a WTB, but trawling all the forums, looking for hints that people might be parting out, or watchign build threads where someone might be pulling a 4age out for an SR or something, then when they do put it up for sale you can jump on the deal!