ke70dave

I'm sorry what? camber tops and LCA's wont change king pin angle. and what are you refering to with the "unsure about LCA's and bumpsteer". as for the original question, ke70 stuff is an upgrade for ke30's yeah? ae86 is pretty simliar to ke70. so i reckon you could use it. I'm sure some ke30 enthusiast has either done it before, or they know more than me. hopefully they poke their head into this thread. just re-read your posts phil-keto, your gonna have to mix and match parts if you want stuff to bolt in. its not going to be exactly easy. I'm imagining, ae86 struts (to fit good shocks in), ke30 LCAs, ae86 steering arms, tie rod/rack ends to suit (are ke30 steering box?...hmm wonder how thats going to work...) and then if you want big brakes, like that ajps RX7 kit, thats an RX7 caliper, a mini cooper disc (i belive) and the alloy adaptor to make it all work. and probably custom brake lines to suit.

what is "poss"? and what is "wheel trap"? what makes you want to put the rx7 jobbies on?

edit: i didnt see taz's post, i took to long to write...i may have doubled up on what he said. well mine is fine I'm using those MR2 shocks have the following stats: KYB Sw20 Mr2 back shocks are: Body L 360mm , Comp L 370mm , Extd L 542mm standard 86 shock: AE86 Body length: 402mm Extended length: 604mm now i bought the struts already cut (to suit AE92 shocks), i just needed to put maybe 10mm spacer under my shock to get the gland nut to hold the shock in nice and tight. the car is about as low as it is in my signature (around 130mm at the jacking seams), and when i jack up the car the wheels fall away from the car about 10cm or so. and there is probably about the same length of compressoin (maybe a little differnet, since stroke is ~170mm on the MR2 shocks) i can make the car about another 50mm or so higher before the shock would be out of required range. if you run short stroke shocks, and you don't shorten the strut AND you run the car fairly low, you run the risk of "bottoming out" your shocks. which you don't want to do. the main reason for the shorter body and short stroke shocks, is so that when you lower the car the static position of the shock is about half way on its stroke. if you don't shorten the strut the static position will be closer to full bump on the shock and as mentioned previously will bottom out your shock. it also depends on where abouts you weld on the thread for the coilover business, mine unfortunately have been welded on a bit low, but its still easy enough to get the car to a legal height, in fact its legal where it is now...just. it all comes down to how high you want the car to be. so to the OP, pick a height of your car (say 60mm lower than standard). find a bunch of different shock strokes, pick one that puts the shock in the middle of its stroke at static height, then cut/don't cut your strut tube to suit, or add spaces if required.

i can't get to that ebay link at work. but i have MR2 sw20 rears in the front of my car, with ae86 struts. you need to chop off about 40mm (or maybe 60mm) of the strut tube. and weld it back on. and use a coilover kit thing to get the threads etc. jump on the google machine, and find out the body lengths of standard ae86 shocks, and also those MR2 shocks. as well as the compressed and extended lengths. then you will know what your dealing with.

don't just buy new ones straight up. get a torque wrench and make sure the torque on the main nut is correct. i dunno what it is, check manual. then once its correct, jack up car, grab the top and bottom of the tyre/wheel and check for clearance. if you still got clearance, new bearings time.

judging by his (ljmk2468) topic's on his profile he has a ke70. ae86 LCA=ke70 lca, same length. forget about getting longer LCAs to get hektic cambers, waste of time if you don't have other mods as well. i dunno what the prices on HSD's are, but i would just make your own coilovers (or buy someone has alreay made) out of ae86 struts. ljmk2468: option 1 if you have no money. get some decent tyres on the front, sign up at your local racetrack, get it sideways and have fun, and then ask people who are watching what they think you could do better to improve. option 2, if you have money and want to improve the overall handling of your car (not specificllay for drift, but it will definately help) get some 86 struts, get some decent short stroke shocks, some stiffer springs, some new bushes, an adjustable panhard rod, some decent tyres (on the front at least), a small steering wheel, and most importantly an LSD, get out onto a track and throw it sideways and have a ball. also, i bet those GTR seats are AWESOME in a ke70. nice work on that one.

yeah that wont work...all that information is already available somewhere. people need to be not lazy and just trawl the internet to find information. before i started modding my corolla i swear i read every bloody members ride thread on this forum, ae86dc, and toymods, and every google result i got from searching "4age ke70"...there is alot. after that i started on the tech threads....sure you have to filter out the rubbish, but its not like what we do hasnt been done before somewhere. but once you read them all, you got a pretty damn good idea on what to do, and more importantly...what not to do... however this takes time lots of time...and time is one thing you need to mod a car. though i dunno what the commotion is about in this thread, i was going to post something simliar to even, but when i tried to find the information on google (Hp of a 5k, to link and "prove" my point) it wasnt as easy as i thought, the HP figures arent listed on wiki etc. luckily some nice person put it in the FAQ.

yeah that wheel beering could very well be your problem.

i dunno what models, but this one was pretty old looking. about 1984 or so. looked like this

nah they are north-south taz friend had one with a 2a (or 3a) engine in it. looked just like a ae71/ae86 engine bay, cept it was somehow driving the front wheels. i never got a chance to stick my head under the front end and see how they did the front end.

one must ask why you want it? put more* air in your tyres if you want lighter steering!:P *taz is correct, one thing you don't want is my air in you tyres. that wont end well.

if you are going to the effort of doing a proper paint job please don't paint it matt black:( it looks VERY tacky unless it is done PERFECTLY. also wont clear coat on top of matt black make it...shiny?

what wheels are they? they are cool as.

yeah the replacement H4 semi sealed beams are the way to go. i thought zenon would be out for old cars, since you require theh proper lense etc. you can ge those "Crystal" semi sealed beams, but they look a bit wanky... maybe spend a bit extra and get some proper "hella" semi sealed beams, they always have nice reflectors, the cheapys from supercheap/autobahn tend to be a bit dodgy. also I'm not exactly sure on the size of ke30 lights, but on my ke70 quad light setup i went to the wreckers and found some OEM semi sealed beams off an old honda accord i think. The lense and reflector is awesome, stacks of light even with standard globes. ps. i always wanted to buy a pair of E30 BMW projector lights and fit them to my ke70, would be so cool.

good stuff mate! glad you got it working again. its a good idea to wire in a relay to that wire, so it draws power straight from the battery rather than through the original connections. over the years the connections throughout the car will get a bit dodgy and you can get some voltage drop through them, or even broken connections . which i suspect has happened in your car. there is a thing in the FAQ about how to wire up said relay (i think...). i had your problem quite a number of years ago, wired in the relay and hasnt given any drama since.

ah well then. thats illegal;) good luck and don't crash into me, as your insurance company wont cover the costs for my car. and i will have to get money out of you.

why expect to get defected? do it once, do it properly. and if it costs you alot to get it legal then suck it up. then when you get pulled over, have all your documents ready in the car. i have a folder of documents in my glove box for my mod plates etc to show to the police. not had to show it yet (touch wood), but one day i will. edit: this is pretty interesting. http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/environment/impact/emission.aspx anyone want to go and check the compliance plate and check what ADRs are stamped on a ke70? i can't as i am at work...but i will endeavour to when i get home.

there is no "earth" wire. on the starter or from the battery. the starter motor "earths" itself through your engine block when you bolt it in. the other wire you would have checked (big one straight from battery) is the +12V direct from the battery, it is not switched, it is constant. yes check the solenoid wire. this is what your key/switch controls. not starting = 0 volts, starting = 12volts. (with reference to "ground")

actually what you can do, since your battery is in the boot. get your little peice of wire, and bridge the main wire on the starter AND the trigger wire on the starter. this should make your starter motor turn. you say you have voltage at the starter, but which wire did you check? you can have voltage at the main power wire all day, but if the trigger wire (solenoid) is never given power your starter will never turn.

could very well be your ignition switch. on your starter there are 2 wires, 1 chunky wire direct from battery, and 1 little wire that is your solenoid wire or "trigger" wire for the start (comes via your key/ignition switch) get a random peice of wire, and go from your battery straight to your trigger wire, it should turn the engine over. if this is the case, follow the trigger wire around and look for faults. put a multi meter on the trigger wire and see if you get any volts when you try and start it. do you hear a clicking noise at all? if this is the case yo umay need an extra relay in your starter solenoid circuit.

el-o-el at 2hp. this thread i think has surved its purpose. though just don't go and buy a set of ignition leads if you havent checked your current ones are in spec.

daym 800bucks. mine was...80 bucks (QLD though) i would ring around a few engineers, see what they can offer, its a simple thing to mod, only increasing capacity by 20% and adding some fuel injection, and its all bolt in if you use the right bits. also for the slant to flat front, you also need the grill that goes between the bonnet and the windscreen. and the headlights wont bolt up unless you change the bit of metal that they bolt to (cut/weld etc), but i hear its pretty easy to just make them fit, drill a few new holes etc.

is your 'baby' standard? then just get whatever is listed at the auto parts store. for all of the above items. just get a decent brand, penrite for oil, NGK for spark plugs etc. no need to change the spark plugs or leads if they arent broken.

who knows mate. people are lazy? or like the guy above sais, they are treated as "one use only" items. not given alot of respect unfortunately. Same reason why you see so many half finished projects sitting around or for sale. like you, i had to get my car into road worthy state when i first got it (admitedly it was standard, but it was also pretty stuffed to begin with). luckily being a ke70 you can almost replace the entire driveline and all the components in about 1 week. and you end up with a brand new car. it does feel good to get a legitimate RWC for an old car that most people scrap.

how much altitude are we talking here? cooler temps = denser air higher altitude = less dense air. you would think they may cancel each other out.. but i can't image you are talking about to much altitude here? few hundred meters wont make much difference at all. are you running cold air induction? on carby cars if the intake air is to cold then it can play with how the carby works. fuel wont atomise properly possibly?