ke70dave

ah good point.. although technically my way may work as well, just a little more complex...and higher potential for error. ive spent the last 5-10mins scribbling down diff schematics on my notepad here....trying to get my head around it... i think i need to jack up my car and check it out for myself:P

2.18 isnt very approximate! thats very specific! haha good to see you measuring stuff and trying to understand! you want to be turning the tailshaft and measuring the wheel turns, as thats how the ratio is devised. or you could flip the ratio i guess, 4.11:1 is 1:0.24. but that doesnt match up with the numbers your getting. wait...how are you measuring this? are you just jacking up one rear wheel and spining it? cause that will cuase the differential to work, and I'm not sure how this effects you results. best to jack up both rear wheels, spin the tailshaft 4.11 times, and BOTH rear wheels should spin one complete revolution. if you find that one wheel keeps spinning whilst the other one stays still, find 2 friends, one on each wheel and get them to keep them spinning at the same speed, one might need some resistance so it forces some torque through to the other wheel. i don't think i have explained this all that well, hopefully you get an idea.

3sfe is too many efforts for the gains. i imagine its pretty much the same as a 3sge conversion, cept without the 3sge. -figure out what to do with the dizzy (CAS + aftermarket ecu) -figure out what to do with you gearbox (some weird and obscure bellhousing + custom clutch) -custom engine mounts/gbox mounts/inlet manifold, exhaust manifold, tailshaft, wiring. pretty much assume that everything will be custom, and thats a good starting point. the 3sfe went ok in the old st162 celica/sv21 camry my mate used to have, but i sure wouldnt go out of my way to put one into anything, cept maybe a bin.

I'm not going to lie...but thats a fairly poor fit that ae86 cage in the that ae71 up there. there are plenty of cage guys around that will do it properly and sign off the cams stuff at the same time. given the time required and materials, that $1150 sounds pretty good. i got a quote for about 2k at one stage. i think that was through to the front strut mounts too though. give these guys a call: http://www.racefabricationsadelaide.communityguide.com.au/ first result from google of "roll cage adelaide"

ah k, i don't recall exactly. i had the carbon canister hooked up to something though. i pulled it off a ke30 wagon at the wreckers (ke36?) but it looked a bit retro-fit on the wagon, so i guess can't guarantee it was originally from it.

my guess is that it is, hardly worth the effort mate. doubt you will notice any difference. just save up for some extractors. easiest way to clean up the 4k engine bay, is to get a 3k carby and put the 4k jets in it. 3k carby has hardly any pipes on it, just for the vac advance and the carbon canister. i did this to my original 4k as i got fed up with trying to understand the stupid emissions system on the 4k, and it never ran quite right as i think i had some pipes in the wrong spot. not hard when there is about 55 pipes in the 4k carby.

considered looping your exhaust back and forth under your car and adding a few more mufflers? could get 5 more easy. or on a more serious note, how about an airbox or something? sounds bloody loud if its got all those mufflers, and you reckon its still too loud. i think i want one, and i think your neighbours must hate you!

never mind. i thought you meant belmont in brisbane (3km from me...) but then i saw the perth.

yeah i had this happen on my mates car (97 astina),same thing, water out exhaust pipe. i did the head on it, turned out to be quite a bent head (with some corosion causing a leak), and it had a metal headgasket, so it leaked like a siv, put it all back together, fired it up first time after re-assembly, and water came out the exhaust....i crapped myself. luckily it was just water left in the mufflers! came good after a few minutes. hopefully you havent bent the head to bad. i did the head on my mates 4k, and it was so bent it coudlnt even be machined, was a good 3mm of bend in it!! lukcily a 4kc head is cheap as to buy.

yeah you don't want to be doing any manual drilling on anything if we are talking about pulleys. if you are the slightest bit off centre you will just flog out your bearings in your alternator. just take the pulley and your alternator to your nearest machine shop and get them to fit them. they will do the correct tolerances to give it a nice fit etc. prolly cost you 20bucks or something, its a simple job with the correct tools. and if you need that spacer that taz is on about get them to do that too.

$10 from dicksmith/jaycar mate. http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=QM1500&keywords=multi+meter&form=KEYWORD best investment you will make in terms of working on electrical stuff on your car. you are only guessing if you don't have one of these.

got a multi meter? if not get one, and check the power wires to your stereo.

gossssshhhhh!! i struggle to see where the "50 buck gift card" comes into the rest of your topic.

many cars back in the day came standard with vacuum guages. they arent stupid at all, i sure wouldnt put one on by choice, but they arent such a bad idea. good way to monitor your fuel economy. car looks alright, a quick tidy up and it will be good. i don't mind the interiour. a little....flamboyant perhaps. maybe tone it down a bit, but its alright. please put that bumper back on...keep this one looking clean and tidy.. ps: i have a flat bonnet you can have for free, comes with extra speed holes and some iron oxide. nothing a bit of figbre glass can't fix.

ahh well if you are a software engineer you must be inteligent. forget carbys. buy a programable ecu, a cheap one, ie a megasquirt. then wire it in and start road tuning. though ive never dealt with Gas, so not sure on what is required. i dare say that a decently tuned EFI system will always be more fuel efficient than a carby setup. I'm not sure how good the standard ECU is though, which is why i suggest the aftermarket jobby.

no i was refering to this: (ok i can't spell, and i scrolled to quickly, but it was worth a try!)

nah ive seen that photo from years back, and it is cool. ok yeah it helps i own one, but you wont get matt black anywhere near it!

it looks terrible. they all look terrible. they look so tacky and wrong. and why you would paint an austin martin that color, ive no idea. the ONLY matt black car that i think looks ok. (that i have seen) is this one. purely based on the fact that it looks VERY tough. it doesnt look good, it looks tough. there is a difference.

to many fulli sick drifters. and if i see any more threads that turn into 5k's into corollas, I'm going to scream. almost need a default reply: *5k is your best option *seirra standard shocks are too short *no you shoudlnt cut your springs *no you can't do that you are on your p plates. *yes a 4age in your ke70 will cost about 3000, no i wont give you a list of what you need, yes it has been done before. that should cover it.

i just bought an JDM s15 silvia stock as a rock, but pretty quick. needs exhaust though. first turbo car ive owned, certainly a nice feeling. best part is it has aircon.

luckily the front of an ae86 is VERY simple. only a few things could be the problem 1: loose gland nuts 2: shocks are too small. however if the gland nut is done up uber tight (REAAALLLLYYYY tight) even if the shocks are a tad small on the OD then it still shouldnt rattle as bad as you describe. the only way you are going tell is if you pull it all appart and see for yourself. if the shocks are too small in OD you could wrap them in aluminm from a coke can. (43.5-41.5)/2= 1mm gap either side of the shock to take up, so a few layers of aluminum coke can will sort that out, then once the shock can't move side to side in the strut, crank that gland nut up and you shouldnt have any dramas. you could possible find some thin alluminium/steel sheeting somewhere to use as well. first step though? pull it all appart and have a look, as i can only speculate.

too much efforts. you need a complete 4age in order to "turn" a 4afe into a 4age. the only thing they share in common is the block, the rest is different. the only reason it should be done, is if you have both engines already, and the 4age block is stuffed. its not something you should go out of your way to do, its something you would do becuase you happen to have the parts. 4age's arent that expensive, seen a few going for 500 including loom etc. to put it into a ke70, have a search around, its a long list of stuff and its not cheap, but it is bolt in.

raise your car......? Au springs are for making your car lower. and stiffer. and illegal.

I'm under the impression that it can work, but not a bolt in job. have a look at this: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/2008-T18-vs-AE71-Pedal-Box-A-photographic-comparison-Explanation-on-making-one-fit

if you do it yourself, potentially under 100 bucks. if you get someone else to do it, potentially over 700bucks. my mate bought a kit to put a ca18 into his ae86, about 450 i think. and although the mounts did their job, they were pretty agricultural. just a few bits of bar slapped together. we could have made them for under 100, but the kit saved time.