ke70dave

yeah i had ae71 tailshaft in that list.. auto and manual diffs are the same, just a different ratio. in fact if you have an auto diff keep it (4.1 ratio as oposed to 3.9) ke70 and ae71 diffs are exactly the same (bar the ratios i think), exact same externals though. ok here you go, the list. I'm should put this in my sig..... 4age engine T50 gearbox loom and ecu clutch and flywheel insert a spigot bearing into your crank (FWD 4ags don't have it. if you have one alreay, replace it. its $6. don't know what it is? google it) rwd intake manifold (genuine or cut and shut FWD one) RWD exhaust manifold (genuine or extractors) cooling system, either genunine RWD or make the FWD work (google it, theres a really good guide somewhere, easy to find) fuel system, please do it properly. in tank lift pump (check the FAQ), with a surge tank (check ae86dc for my guide on undercar surge tank in a ke70) DO NOT just use a single external efi pump. thats the lazy gay way. ae71 gearbox and engine crossmember ae71 engine mounts, both rubber and metal (or ae86) ae71 pedal box to bolt into your car (you will need to drill a few holes for the clutch master), or fabricate something. been done heaps of times. ae71 clutch master cylinder (buy this brand new, 50bucks) ae71 slave cylinder(buy this brand new, 50bucks) clutch solid line (ae71 works, but its just a line, find something at the wreckers and bend it into shape) ae71 clutch solid line (get a braided one made up, with a banjo fitting to clear your extractors, cost me 70bucks) ae71 tailshaft (bolts the T50 to your standard diff) if you want a T series diff, you will need an ae86 front half with a T18 or jap ae86 rear half tailshaft. ke70 radiator can work but you will need really long radaitor pipes to fit it up. i used an ae71 radiator purely because i had one. lots of different options, there is a camry radiator that fits good, massive too so bit of an upgrade. then when you have bolted all that in, tow it down to the exhaust shop, get them to put a PROPER exhaust on (2.25" one muffler 1 resonator) over diff and tucked up to the body nicely. that should be about it.

have a google mate. all the info is out there. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=2059 there is some good one. there is quite a long list of stuff for the conversion, but its better if you discover it yourself, then you'll remember it! then if you have questions, head on back. quick run down: efi fuel system t50 gearbox, ae71 crossmember and gearbox member. ae71 tailshaft water system sort out what to do with your radiator (outlets on wrong side for 4a) .... ... .

i assume this one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-4wd-turbo-petrol-hilux-hubs-/170598776373?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item27b87abe35 The 1.8 L (1809 cc) CA18ET produces 135 hp (99 kW) and 141 lb·ft (183 Nm) from a single Garrett T2 turbocharger. i dare say that must be slow as, 1.8L single cam, turbo or not, is going to be fairly horrible at powering those monster tyres. but i may be wrong, but 1.8L isnt very much, though hard to tell how big that car really is, as its a datsun of some description. take it for a spin and tell us what you think! as for the engines themselves, can't be that bad, look fairly simple. came in nissan exa's in aus i think?

does sound like spark related. just buy cheap copper plugs too, apparnetly they work better than the fancy ones, just don't last as long. make sure you gap them properly. does it do it if you rev it up using minimal throttle? or only when you give it the beans.

Ring them up and they will tell you. tighecams.com.au/contact.htm

yeah get some sand paper onto the contacts. you should really get a new cap, but you might be able to get away with it. depends how bad it looks once you clean it all up.

damn those rear wheels are massive. what you might need to do...is get another panel van, cut it straight down the centre, and weld each half to the side of your current van!!! nah in all serious ness, thats going to take alot of work. common method for quite extreme wheel fitting is getting some old guards and welding them onto the outside of the car, and bogging/glassing to fit. in your case you might be better off with proper over fenders like on that green car up there.

yeah check the timing like has been stated, you shouldnt need any fancy fuel if the timing is set to standard. attack it with some carby cleaner. also VERY carefully while the engine is running, mist some water into the carby. nothing like a steam clean to get rid of those potential hot spots.

haha me? yeah i nominated myself. figured it would make my internet browsing somewhat usefull. it used to be good, but i dunno seems to have gone down hill....and then that subforum popped up.....and that was it....I'm rarely there anyway. browse the for sale sections and try and offload some of my spare parts in the WTB's :P formentioned subforum is just below offtopic, in fact its the lowest forum link. you gota be signed into see it though. anyways, back to more important matters. more discussions of this ae86....go!

by rally height you mean functional height:P

have you actually looked into what is required for EPA passing? i belive there is some loop holes in regards to the carby/efi thing in an old car. research it thoroughly before throwing in the towel, given the original emissions requirements on the ke70 which is what the EPA is based on, can't be that hard to pass.

165 tyres???? why not just buy one of these. if your going to get new wheels, and new tyre at least make them grip better than the standard items.

haha agreed on the ae86dc comment....they have a porn sub forum now.....? anyways always like your car tim, so nice and clean but with some nice mods too. what happened with the semi trailer? sounds nasty...good to hear it on the mend though.

yeah i donit think its such a big deal on old cars. what sort of difference are we talking here trev? i don't even know what km's are on my car, bought it with the speedo not working, swapped it for a tacho dash with 287k on it. luckily everything that spins or makes the car work has been replaced....

also make sure you havent crossed your fuel lines somewhere. if you have your breather pipe submerged (ie your return) then when the fuel tank pressurises it will force fuel up your return line and that will flood your carby (i think) i had this happen when i fist hooked up my 4age, but instead of it flooding my carby, it leaked out my dodgy hose connection and spilt fuel EVERYWHERE in my garage from just a few hours of sitting.

could also be the "sense" wire for the alternator. where does it look like its supposed to go? the actual charge wire should be fairly chunky (compared to normal wires) and should be attached to the alternator by a bolt.

was the R31 going in reverse?

well its supposed to be connected to something. connect it back up, check your charging voltage when the car is running (should be 13-14V ish). there is a wiring diagram on K motor alternators in the FAQ i think.

whats a good wrecker in adelaide??? what king of question is that? bloody ring up a wrecker and ask them if they will pull it out for you. and if you think its to expensive, ring 4 others and compare prices. http://www.yellowpages.com.au/search/listings?clue=wreckers&locationClue=Adelaide+SA&x=29&y=16

http://www.gimp.org/ its free.

front universal joint of drive shaft? can't say ive ever had one of them fail. have you been doing naughty things?

yeah plenty of guys take their cars for a spin on the race track, good way to hoon legally in your hoon car. crashing at a drift/track day isnt exactly un heard of, seen it heaps of times. thats a fairly nasty one though! oh and yeah thats not a GTR, and even if it was....R33's are ugly:P

love both the cars mate. looking forward to seeing some of those videos you mentioned.

No don't give any money back. Deposit is there so you.don't sell it. If he changes his mind he forfeits the deposit.