ke70dave

nah the s15 has aircon, ke70 no aircon. and its summer:P

who would have thought?!?! as for my car...it hasnt been driven in about 2 weeks. i should take it for a spin, prolly need the battery charged by now.

i heard a rumour once that it was "rb20 engine mounts" with a k series cross member allows you to bolt the CA in. unconfirmed. either way, its pretty damn close, find someone with a few bits of steel and a welder. or figure out what you need to be done to that engine mount, draw up a little diagram, take it to a fabricator and get them to weld it up.

that is cool, nice bit of tech info there as well. keep the pics and info coming!

Jip: confidence is gained directly after it is needed! gota have a crack, get out of that comfort zone, then the next time is slightly easier. having said that I'm useless at just starting convo's with random people, which is why i avoid such places as you describe. getting stood up sucks though, can't help you there! in my oppion,a good way to meet people is through sporting activities (or equally social activities), then straight away you have something in common, other than being in the same place. bubbles: nothing saddens me more than knowing that someone was so down, and felt so bad, that they felt the need to take their own life. my only "real" experience of this was a girl i met once who used to go to a school i just joined, took her life when i was in grade 12(she left in yr 10). even though the only thing i knew about her was my name, it is terrible to think of the life that has been wasted and that i had met the life that was wasted. gah its horrible.

thats a pretty serious looking shifter contraption... looking forward to more upadates!

what makes it better? if you are serious about choosing the right turbo, you need to start looking at compressor maps, and understanding how ot use them to choose you turbo. I'm not up on how to use them completely, but there is heaps of info out there on how to do it. here is a good start, very intersting stuff. http://www.automotivearticles.com/Turbo_Selection.shtml

unless you build it yourself, or buy someones unfinished project, or parted out project....a complete 4agze setup for an ae71 does not exist. 2500 for a half cut, then sell off all the unusable stuff to the FWD corolla crew over at twincam.org/info, make back some of your money (gbox, driveshafts, brakes...anything else they want/need) then spend the money you made back on setting it up for RWD.

looking very good there bubbles (hehe) i like those white walls.

with the correct combination of parts, a 4age conversion is bolt in (appart from fuel system and wiring) everything on the beams is going to be custom. i think you know which one is easier!

interseting thing about turbo, is that the goal isnt to get maximum pressure, it's to get maximum volume of air flowing through engine. These complicated multi turbo charger setups may hinder this when you start trying to move alot of air.....which maybe explains why most twin turbo setups get thrown for a good single turbo setup when they upgrade etc. but ive no real evidence to back this up....

not sure id build that thing purely to make smoke.....hopefully he drag races it too. but check out the supercharger belt move! all over the place.first time ive really noticed that....

is your mate an engineer capable off signing off on engine conversions?

ohhhh does that sound good. lookin forward to seeing this thing in action. you and your alloy bolts...

this is interesting: http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1008_intake_reversion/index.html and after reading that, I'm still going for needing to free up the exhaust. (pending rules in the class he drives in). also they mention "increasing low lift exhaust flow" as well. to get the exhaust going out your exhaust port, not your intake port.

haha love me? mmm well this is awquad.... I'm not sure if there is anything i don't know, if i knew that i didnt know it, i would know it...wouldnt i? the nuts were Hex yes, not sure what you are refering to with the 2-holes thing though? should look like this. this is an MR2 shock, you can see the thread is course as well: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/images/MR2_Struts/gland_nut_installed.jpg i didnt have a spanner that fitted though, but i did have a pipe wrench that worked a treat. you really need to swing off the gland nuts, you don't want it coming loose at all. and if (like me) you can't seem to get it tight enough (bloody thing wouldnt stop rattling, even though i swung off that gland nut), throw some 20C peices under you shock, and try again. i can't claim any praise for this one, someone suggested that in my car build thread.

yeah they wont sell them to you seperately. i was in the same position as you a few months back (i bought celica shocks to put in 86 struts, celica gland nuts were a course thread, ae86 is a fine thread) i ended up getting mine from A J P S http://www.ajps.com.au/ i think it was like $20 including postage for a pair of brand new gland nuts. that a j p s bloke is nice, he'll try and help you out!

if you don't mind me asking SLW what you get done for to get 1month suspension? ive never heard of 1 month suspension before. usually 3months cancelled or 1yr on 1 point? as for what happends now, just ring up department of transport.

150psi +-5% seems good to me. how aggressive is that cam? that will decrease the compression when you measure it. as for the inlet reversion, what is the rest of your exhaust like? standard? that might be your trouble, air just can't get out. (thats my understanding what you mean by inlet reversion) i googled it and on the rollaclub FAQ it sais something like "Make sure you have extractors before fitting twincarbs or you will get inlet reversion" i assume, more/bigger carbys = more air, stock exaust manifold = air can't get out, thus air goes back up carby when valve opens?

yeah the whole thing where people are going crazy at the supermarkets is quite rediculous. out here at wynnum, we didnt get any flooding at all. localised maybe, like a backyard, it was actually quite sureal, everything was just "normal". where 15mins away peoples homes were under water.... howeever....at the shops, all milk gone, both fresh and UHT, all bread gone, any sort of canned meal (baked beans)..all gone...people buying 100's of dollars of panic food. now i know supplies to these things were cut off for a few days there, but this was before it all happened (in brisbane anyway). panic panic panic. i walk into coles to get an ice coffee, and people are running around screaming fighting over the last loaf of bread. i mean c'mon people! if anything leave the food for people that actually need it!

unfortunately as smart as our brains are, we are only just touching the surface of understanding how the human body works. On one hand its amazing to think how advanced it is, but on the other hand its sad when you hear about these deseases that have doctors baffled. good luck with it mate, stay strong, good will come out of it all!

he is a member on here i belive. it is a very cool car.

ahh i figure the water lines would be with the heater core. makes sense. i assume you mean parellel with the heater core. though you probably coudlnt put it in before, as my understanding is when the heater tap is closed the water in the heater lines isnt flowing?

the funny thing about engines...is they are all the same! oil feed: as previously mentinoed, take a tap out of the oil pressure switch. pending what turbo you use, you may need a restrictor or some description. check with you turbo as to what pressure it can handle, then check what oil pressure a K motor runs at. for the oil feed you probably want to get a braided line, go to your local hydraulics shop with your oil pressure switch, and your turbo, tell them what you are doing, and they will sort out the rest. oil return: take your sump to any decent fabricator, and get a line brazed into the sump. you want the oil drain to be exactly that a drain, directly down out of the turbo straight into the sump, no bends. then to join them up, go to your local diesel spares get some silicon hose (this stuff is wicked) its not cheap though. but its the best. get a few good clamps and your done. water feed/return: not entirely sure where you would get this from on a K motor, ive not had a K motor for yrs so can't even go and look. maybe try and get a turbo that doesnt require water;) as mentined boost is controlled via wastgates, you can buy replacement (different "boost" pressures) wastegates for "most" turbos from aptuning.net (I'm in the process of buying one for the s15 atm). or you can just use one of those boost "t" things, but they tend to add dramas such as boost spikes etc. the rest comes down to if you choose EFI or carby, id go with EFI, but that adds electronics and tuning to the equation (both of which you don't want to pay someone to do it, as it will cost a fortune, and defeats the purpose of turbo K being cheap). alot of guys go carby for simplicity and have success. once you decide what your doing re efi/carby, an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor is something you want, along with an appropriate fuel system. there is no step by step guide, its all custom made, so you need to understand everything. especially when you are on the side of the road at 11pm at night with your girlfriend in the car, in winter. your going to want to know how to fix it;)

nah hes in the land of the yanks twinky! check out his cool multi coloured 2-door ke70. as for that link, the prices sounds about right in comparison to engines you get in AUS. but most of us are from australia here, so i doubt anyone would have had any involvement with that company.