ke70dave

hmmm doesnt surprise me. the porshe example is interseting, cheaper to move to america for 12months, buy a porsche, drive it around america for a while. then bring it over when you return to aus. than to buy one out right in aus.....crazy.

no dramas, admitedly i did have a bit of fun with that post up there;) and may have gone a bit over the top what does look cool, is the FXGT's. they are a 2-door version of the ae82 that didnt come to australia (of course). I'm not an ae82 guy so i don't know specifics, but they have cool sideskirts, bumpers, grills, etc. so if i was you i would be trying to track down these parts. wont be easy to get, will probably involve importing the parts from overseas, but ive seen theparts for sale on the ae82' forums so they are around. http://www.toycrazy.net/mark/pics/ae82fxgt/fxgt-007.jpg that car is a little rough, but you get the idea.

what exactly did you want us to reply to this thread? what could be done to make it stand out? spinning hub caps, fluffy dice, twin turbo, NOS, extra cup holders(at least 4), neon lights in foot well (ones that flash with you subwoofer), oh yeah..5 subwoofers, paint it pink - bright pink. what i think should be done? a set of wheels, no bigger than 16", good suspensions, almost every "option" off the twincam version (colour coded bumpers especially, steering wheel, interiour, rear hatch wing, etc) and of course a 20V 4age engine. unsure on your license type, 20V might be out. what i think you should do? dunno, I'm not you! to get ideas on your car, you don't just post up asking for ideas. you spend days and weeks and months trolling the internet seeing what others have done, forming your own oppinion on what you think is good and bad, and eventually forming your own ideas based on what you have previously seen.

what sort of carby? damn 'ae824ate' that is a nasty job you have done on your wrist....

you could put a buzzer in. something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Headlight-on-buzzer-Alarm-Reminder-Brand-New-/400102788400?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d27fc0d30 there is probably a jaycar equivilent. but if you get a 12V buzzer, and a diode you could make one really simply.

what do you mean "re-wire"? if you are asking about ripping all the wires out of the car, and starting again, thats going to take ages, talking maybe a week full time. maybe even more. not to mention the cost of equipment (wire isnt cheap, relays, fuse boxes, crimps, heat shring, switches, bulbs....etc) i dare say you are probably looking at $4000+ to get an auto elecy to wire up your car. why exactly do you want to-rewire the whole thing? whats wrong with the standard wires? if you do it yourself it will be heaps cheaper, you can actually buy car wiring kits, few hundred bucks, get a fuse/relay box (used in hot rods, vintage or custom cars). i considered doing this to mine, but decided it was far to much effort for no real gain other than it looks better. but its ALOT of effort. and will be complicated, things like windscreen wipers and indicators are a little complicated, definately do-able but if your not up on electrics, it will drive you insane. factory automotive wiring is designed to use minimum wiring, so they tend to do little tricks (funky ground paths etc) that can do your head in if you don't understand it.

damn straight. its just a ke70. bought to be used, and i bet he's going to have a blast taking it off road. yes ke70 is a good car, yes they are fun, but they are the econobox of the 1980's, there are millios of them, why not have fun with a few of them. alternatively, your mate sounds like a bit of an idiot if hes going to this much troble over an arguement. (btw video doesnt seem to work for me)

Copies of what?

far out....VIC as well? floods in VIC and QLD, fires in WA..... nasty stuff, good luck all you victorians.

In the 5 yrs I've had my ke70,been pulled over countless times for 'random' breath tests, I've never had a cop ask me to open the bonnet. Just keep it legal and then three is no need to be stealth. I agree with madke35 up there, not worth it. But sure have a go, would be a fun project. Edit: el o el at 200 kw at wheels na 5k

paint it the same colour as your car...

yeah agreed. i went with the T18 bars. they look ok, but they never fit or look right. you can mould the guards to make them fit better, but bit to much effort unless you are good. best off getting some of the brand new ones, though from what i hear the chroming isnt all that great on them....but they do look good.

my understanding is that it's the JDM bellhousing that is "Worth" the money. because of the clutch slave on the other side. i paid 250$ for a 20yr ae71 gbox, in usable condition. i thought that was fair. i woudlnt pay any more though.

I am one of the lucky ones, no real dramas out my way.but at work today I went and got a stack of sand bags to try and protect our office, looks like it may be flooded in tomorrow. I work at eagle farm which is right on the river.......good Luck to those who aren't as lucky:(

brilliant write up mate. i enjoyed the read! and really nice work with the ke30. well done, I'm a bit of a megasquirt fan, don't have one personally but working with one on a friends 12a turbo. great bit of gear. btw where did you get the EDIS from? america? good to see some real engineering there. what do you do for a job?

mmmm that is cool, well done guys. don't need a spare service crew for the corolla?:P

not sure why you guys removing the bonnet for.. just make sure the end of your crane is close to the engine, don't have 1m of chain between chain and engine. and yeah its like a 30min job to remove a 4k engine from a ke70. gbox xmember/engine xmember, few fuel lines, exhaust, few wires....out it comes.

We should buy stuff from harvey norman, that harvey norman bought from china.

bit of a cosmosworks/simulation fan? bit better than strand7 we had at uni. yeah its pretty dodgy analysis thats for sure, but was just a quick copy and paste. like you say the actual numbers don't mean a whole lot, was more just a comparison, and yeah the rotation is interesting, thats probably the root of the "problem" with NRCA's. yeah not sure i want to touch that speedway plate, i don't think 10T will be very kind to it.

who is he? that the bloke going on about taxing internet sales or some crap? sure it isnt the background in that photo? few seconds of looking at the background and I'm feeling a little angry.... edit: just jumped on news.com.au, and found that photo....yeah I'm not a fan of that guy. not my fault harvey norman is generally 70% more expensive than anywhere else. the funniest part about all this, is that even if 10% gst was added to online shops, online is generally ALOT cheaper than 10%. soooooooo ill still buy online anyway.

what you suggest will "work", but don't bother, not worth the effort. no more power. will sound better maybe. if everything else is stock then nothing wrong with the stock airbox. if you get a webber or some other uprated carby, the stock airbox may not fit, so most guys get one of those shiny airfilter boxes that sit ontop of the carby, to replace the stock one. the filter itself isnt really an upgrade (though it sounds heaps better), more of a necessety with the new carby. and it looks alot neater in the engine bay.

photos of my FEA as shown: for those not familiar with FEA it is a computational way of seeing how a body acts when forces are applied. in my model i fixed one side (the steering arm side) and applied the load directly down on the other side (like where the strut would sit on the RCA/NRCA) now the scale you see in the drawings is in MPa or megapascal, this is basically a measure of stress in the material. i chose a standard alluminium for the material which has a yeild strength of about 620MPa, which means if the stress gets above this value then the material will yeild, or deflect or "bend". now i chose a force of 100,000N, which is equivilent to about 10,000kg or 10ton. i chose this fairly arbiarilly, but its sort of a worse case scenario, say your driving at 160km/h, you hit a giant pot hole or ripple strip. the impact force on this thing is going to be huge. but its difficult to get a real number, so 10ton was chosen. so here is a quick sketch of the cross section of my NRCA, i guess the dimensions. this is more of a comparison between the NRCA and the RCA so i figured the dimensions werent that important: now for the RCA i just changed that sketch a bit to make it smaller, and here are the stress results that i got: and one from underneith (this is where it is fixed. so the stress is around the 30MPa mark, with peak stresses hitting 50ish. in FEA you get peak stresses where the mesh stuffs up, so you sort of ignore them a bit (hard to explain) this is a cut away of the RCA, you can see the stress is distributed nicely throughout the item, so the whole item is taking the load, which is a good thing. now onto the NRCA...this is where things get interesting...... ill just jump straight into it: the main problem with NRCA's is because of the bolt offsets they cause there to be what is called a "moment" applied to the item, which would put enormouse forces on the bolts and the NRCA itself. this is not a problem with the RCA because the forces are applied purely in the same plane as the strut (ie straight "down" through the RCA, not stepped like in the NRCA). this twisting can be seen in the following plot, the numbers on the right are mm of movement, the plot has been greatly exadurated. now onto the stress plots: in that second photo you can see that there is high stress concentrated around what would be the "outside" of the steering arm, because of the fact that there is now twisting being applied to the NRCA, the stersses are no longer uniform throughout the item. not to mention how much higher the stresses are. this is a cut away of the NRCA: you can see how the stresses are concentrated along that edge, which again is from that rotation. so thats why i don't like NRCAs! keep in midn this is a fairly crude analysis, but it was more just to show why i don't think they are a good idea by giving some sort of evidence. not to mention they do ruin your scrub radius as mentioned previously, which i think is a good enough reason not to use one at all......

my understanding is that NRCA's are like a cheat way to get a bit of camber while getting the effects of the RCA. have a google around on what an RCA does, there are some good explainations out there. as for the "bad" points of NRCA's. in reality there probably isnt anything "bad" about them. but for me personally, they just don't sit right. the idea of stepping out the connection between the strut and the LCA for the purpose of getting a bit of camber, is just silly. either lengthening the LCA or using camber tops is the proper way of going about gaining camber. with the NRCA's you are introducing that step in the strut (down to the LCA) which creates further failure points. I am a mechanical engineer, and when ever we design stuff at work, the first thing we ask outselves is "does it look right". and even if all the analysis proves that it will be fine, if it doesnt look right, or sit right, then a new design is found. NRC's just don't look right! actually for an academic excercise, if someone with some NRCA's could get me some dimensions (ie the offset of the holes) ill model it up in FEA anlaysis program, and show you why i don't like them. edit: have just done some FEA analysis on an RCA and NRCA, i guessed the dimensions, but the results are fairly conclusive! ill put the images up when i get home.

round up all the broom sticks you can. and get one of these:P http://dicksmith.com.au/product/L4033/vhf-uhf-combination-outdoor-tv-antenna btw have you tried your TV on the outdoor antenna thats already in your house? does it work good?

hmm sounds to good to be true for 19bucks. how about somethign like this http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LT3134&keywords=TV+antenna&form=KEYWORD its got the powered amplifier. that has to make things better?