ke70dave

took me a while to work out what it was supposed to say.. i assume "OROLLA" or "oh rolla" you might want to chuck it up in the for sale secion :y: maybe a nice mod will move your thread for you.

very nice car mate, really like it. ive always been a fan of the rotor, must go alright in the little corolla. also good to see you have stuck with the project for such a long time too! even through the unfortunate events.

start at the standard 8 BTDC, increase it slightly if you run 98 octane. in fact advance it a little bit, take it to a big hill, load it up in 3rd gear, and see if it pings. if it does, back it off untill it doesnt!

just start with a basic service, timing, points, spark plugs, fuel filter. don't buy anything untill you have inspected them and made sure they are the problem. running on can also be caused by hot spots in the engine, you can steam clean the inside of your engine and try and get rid of any built up carbon, by spraying a fine mist of water into your carby while it is running. be very careful as if you spray to much you will in fact fill your engine up with water and destroy it.

any reason why you ask about R34 and a ceffy? corolla is from 1981-1983? R34 is what, 1998-2000. ceffy is 1988 to 1989? what were you hoping was gonna fit! i actually had ceffy brakes on my ke70 as the "s13 front end". i believe the brakes were bigger than the CAs13, but smaller than the SR20 s13 brakes. worked well on the corolla, the brakes anyway. the s13 geometry and suspension was crap compared to a well sorted ae86 setup though. other than that, seats are a good upgrade, wont bolt in though.

agreed with jono. unless you are going for rediculous horse power, a properly sized turbo for a street driven car will not have any dramas with lag. the problem with most people and their "lag" is like jono sais, they put a huge turbo on, with a garbage exhaust manifold, rubbish exhaust, horrible intercooler and piping, don't tune it properly and then say "oh its because the turbo is soo big, thats why it lags". you really need to make sure every part of the system is designed for maximum flow. in the SR in my s15, its making 0.8bar by around 3300ish rpm, probably making 0.5bar by 2500, and holds 0.8bar all the way to redline, sure below 2500 is "off boost" but turbos inherintly do have that "lag", its just the nature of the mechanics of it all, but i think it can be minimsed by good parts choice. also my 4age in the ke70...has nothing below about 3000rpm anyway...so thats N/A lag.... also one last point, when the engine is "off boost", the turbo is still blowing air, and i think that it is still helping the engine out, although there may not be positive pressure in the inlet manifold i think it is a higher pressure than if there was no turbo at all.

i think 2.5 is a bit big for a stocko K motor though? i would just go, 2", hot dog in the middle, decent straight through muffler on the rear. or if all else fails, one of these welded on the back should do the trick.

yeah i read that trev, i just didnt quite understand what he meant on first read. dividee does yours look like this? http://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20Tuning/Images/Surge%20Tank.gif

nah you shouldnt need that. the surge tank should be always full, and over flowing when running (ie slightly pressurised). thus no priming needed. dividee, maybe draw a diagram in paint exactly how you have hooked up the pipes. showing which pipe on the surge tank you have hooked up which line. what have you done with the return from the fuel rail?

potentially. so much else comes into it though, as its not area under the entire curve, its area under the part of the curve that is being used by the gear ratios. see if you can find some real dyno charts of cars with simliar peak power, and compare the lines. you probably can't directly compare them (with numbers) but you can get a good idea. agreed with mr fires. its far to general to make a call.

4 words dictate the arguemnt. in regards to a torque/power curve. "Area under the curve" you say "both cars making the same power"....what does this mean? say both cars make 100kw, at what rpm? and what do they both make 1000Rpm lower, and 1000rpm higher? you just can't compare the two by saying "both cars make the same power". get some torque/power curves of 2 motors, that "make the same power", and one is N/A and one is turbo. then compare the two curves, work out which one has more area under the curve, that car will theoretically be "faster". assuming all other variables remain consistant between the two cars (gear ratios, tyre size, suspension, driver skill...) which isnt really possible, so you can't compare them at all!

that face palm picture is fantastic. now mr madke35coupe, what yo need to read, is some intercooler theory. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/intercooler.html here is a good start also intercoolers aint intercoolers. bar and plate, tube and fine, length, height weight, direction of tubs, end tank size, does the interocoler have diversion plates inside, pipe size.... not to mention the different varibals effecting temperature of the air exiting the turbo: density and temp of air entering turbo, pressure ratio of turbo (ie "boost") and so on.... then on how good the intercooler does, is dependant on the design of the intercooler, air flow of "cold" air onto the intercooler, and most importantly the temperature difference between the fluid you are trying to cool, and the being cooled. now onto your second question about the electic fan acting as a turbo, if you google "electric turbo" there are heaps of companies that reckon they can do it, but i generally don't belive them....and here is why. your engine eats an INSANE amount of air. if we assume about 80% volumetric efficiency (google it), then your engine (I'm going to assume a 1.3L 4k) eats 0.8*1.3 = 1.04L/revolution of engine. so at 7000rpm, it will eat ~7280L/minute of air. (7000*1.04) the fan you choose needs to be able to flow this much air in order to keep up with your engine, ie it wont produce any boost with this. Now i don't know how to work out how much it needs to flow to produce boost, but its going to be about a metric shiteload. and getting a "Fan" to actually produce pressure is another story all together. which is why turbo chargers are such a masterpeice of engineering!!

i was more refering to TV as in commercial TV channells, ch 7, 9, 10, ABC, SBS, go, one....man there are a few now. i too do enjoy a good video game session.

wont be castor to give that effect. castor will effect toe.....slightly..... i wound my castor from +1 to max...and i drove it around a few weeks before getting a wheel alignment, noticed no toe effects.

oxy weld is better than nothing! meh who cares if your 16, have a crack at it, its how you learn! i personally have not used fibreglass to fix rust holes (used glass for other things though), but maybe have a google on how its done. theres heaps of panel beating forums out there with some great info.

i did exactly what you describe bullet55. just as we were masking up the car to spray it with undercoat (full car respray..) rememberd the hole i needed to fix, bit of rust kill, attack it with a wire brush, filled it up with bog, sanded it back. worked great, for about 6months. it has come back rusted worse now, and annoyingly its through the new paint! you can't beat welding new bits of metal in, but if you dotn have the skills and equipment then that can be expensive. maybe try and find someone who will help you out for a box of beer. once its welded in you can do the rest with a grinder and maybe a very small amount of bog to make it completely smooth. fibreglass will do alot better than bog thats for sure, and its easy to use.

haha I'm only 23! i don't consider that an old fart!! though some might..... :glare: agreed with the TV comments. lets not start on advertisements. i reckon for every 1hr of TV you watch, you lose 1 point of IQ. and if its the news, its up to about 3 IQ points/hour. I'm always having arguements with my parents that the using a computer (games, surfing the net, whatever) is "better" than planting your butt in front of a TV, purely due to its interactiveness. you can read what you want, search what you want, follow the links that you want. TV....no interaction what so ever.

journalists annoy me in general. in fact the entire "news" .....industry? do you call it an industry? annoys me something chronic. to the point where i can't watch the news as i just get so frustrated! even reading the news websites its just full of garbage. i just get frustrated with the way they exadurate things, word things to sound so dramatic, whilts not actually telling you any facts. and don't get me started on the interviews with politicians/people that are shown on TV, in the floods some moronic journalist asked julia guilard: "So julia, this flood, what do you think the effect will be on australia? in terms of the economy?" WHAT DOES THAT EVEN MEAN!!! and what sort of answer did they expect on the spot, from the front man/woman of the political party, who had no way of even telling? of course julia answers with some equally BS reply. and the viewers (ie me) have gained no knowledge what so ever. just filling up our TV with crap!!! ok thats my rant, back to drinking coffee and enginereing something.

if you going to go the rally route. keep it as stock as possible. do up a 4k (cam, compression, side drafts), add a cage, some rally tyres, maybe some shocks springs, keep it cheap. get out there and have a thrash in what should be a reliable simple car. if you start talking turbo, gze in rally, unless you spend the big bucks on getting it 100% reliable, you will be forever on the side of the road! and suspension requirements will be much higher for the higher horesepower of the forced induction motors. have a chat to "trd ke70" about their old rally car, thats where its at! if i ever get into rally, i think i woudl probably just buy someone elses project. check this: http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/cid/560/id/3793/Default.aspx if thats as good as the add sounds, i doubt you could build that for $4500.

haha c'mon man! could you be any more broad. its all going to come down to budget. which you didnt mention. if you havea lot of money, start with something like an evo 9, or an R32 GTR, or a subaru STI, buy the best suspension you can get your hands on (olohns, proflex etc), spend alot on tyres and safety gear, and go out there and blast around the track at the time attack. no good for drift but thats not real motorsport anyway! haha.

haha nice one. i forver payed out my girlfriends sun glasses, she has those silly massive sunglasses, that don't actually block any light...let alone protect your eyes. gave her my polarised glasses to try (just cheapy, but polarised normal glasses), and her eyes were opened, litterally....in that she could actually see when outside. next day i see her with new glasses, look very simliar to the old ones, howeever they are polarised. success!

bugger that...... I'm yet to encounter a snake in real life, which is odd given the amount of camping/hiking ive done. but i don't think I'm a fan....lucky you didnt disturb it when you found it, ie dropped something on it etc. btw what type of snake is that? (excuse my ignorance) dangerous?

geez 750US +post (we buy 0.9988USD today), man you can't go past that. brand new stuff and everything. i should have probably got that instead of stuffing around with the JDM ae86 stuff, new discs 250, calipers ~150, caliper rebuild 250....pads...80...whats that? $730...and still only have 234x18mm....damn stupid takumi tax! not to mention the ~$110 i paid for new brake lines, and you get that in the kit!! just order an extra pair of brake pads when you buy them, save having to chase some down when you need them. down side is i don't think willwood is ADR approved.

love those bumpers mate, they turned out fantastic. what sort of coating do you have on them to get the chrome? is it just chrome paint of some sort? never thought it would turn out that good if its just paint.... I'm looking forward to seeing this thing in action in a few weeks, ill have to pack my allen keys though...for all those damn alloy bolts!!!! haha

haha feet on the dash! not a bad way to end up with your leg detached from your hip in the event of a crash! in other news... there is a house down on the manly forshore, near the fish cafe, with a few corollas and a corona. he/she has an older corona (maybe early 80s, possibly the quad square light version, not the quad round light version...i don't think) with "corona" sticker on the back window, that is the logo of the corona beer. quite clever i thought. he/she appears to have a few corollas too, think ive seen a ke30/55 (can never tell the difference), and possibly a ke20?