ke70dave

and get some good tyres.

some good info here. http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20839

ah sorry i got confused with that other thread about the ke30 that doesnt start. same deal though, hardly any wires in a ke70, so can't be much wrong. hmm the indicator light sounds like a loose ground somewhere. there is a ground up near the front right? of the car, i left that one off by mistake once, all hell broke loose. nothing was working like it should! and the starter motor sounds like your solenoid is stuffed. not pushing the gear into the flywheel properly. Hard to say without seeing/hearing it in person. edit: given its a conversion, who knows what sort of wiring has been done by either you (did you do the conversion?) or any previous owners.

nothing wrong with EFI!!!!!! and once you set it up properly the first time, it wont give you any dramas. forget carbs on a 4age i think, once you set the EFI up, you never have to touch it. (key word, set it up properly!!) note: almost everything you read on the internet regarding fuel systems for EFI + 4age's + rwd corollas is WRONG. you do not need a 900HP external fuel pump, or a 7L surge tank. agreed becareful with "packages", you really need to understand what sensors, wiring, etc you need before you ever start looking for parts. luckily the 4age is the most simple efi system you can get, so you don't need much to get it complete.

well yo need to start with the diagnosis.... make sure your battery is good, or put a known good one in. then if it still wont go, you need to look into the wiring. you can use a peice of wire straight from the battery to the starter motor solenoid. if that works then you know its a wiring issue.

you asked for a mobile auto electrician....in the gold coast, i found one that i would probably call if i needed one. if an auto electrician cannot sort out starter motor wiring in a ke30, then he does not deserve to be called an auto electrician. thus ANY auto electrician will do for you, call around untill you can find the cheapest one, mobile guys probably have a minimum call out fee. have you called that guy yet? had a chat to him? maybe he can help diagnose over the phone? if he is not helpfull over the phone....call the next one in the google result. whats going on with your car anyway? the starter circut on a ke30 contains like 2 wires. is it clicking and not starting? might need a relay in the solenoid wiring.

sounds like you need a relay in your starter solenoid. have a search around, been covered a bit. basically you need to wire a relay into your starter solenoid wire, as there is too much voltage drop through the 30yr old wires running around your car.

Google Search, a web search engine, is the company's most popular service. According to market research published by comScore in November 2009, Google is the dominant search engine in the United States market, with a market share of 65.6%.[113] Google indexes billions[114] of web pages, so that users can search for the information they desire, through the use of keywords and operators. GOOGLE IS AMAZING!!!!! looky what it found me. http://www.auto-electrical-goldcoast.communityguide.com.au/

el-o-el at this thread. anyone here a dentist? I've got a sore tooth. Will pay you in beer to fix it for me. how about an optomotrist? i need to get my eyes checked. There is a carton in it for ya. Just pay the $50 to those with a wheel alignment machine and hope they know how to use it.

in the simplist terms, suspension is there to allow the wheels to move up and down to help the body not move up and down (provide comfort), it is also there to ensure that the tyre maintains contact with the road at all times (provide grip). in order to achieve this, the wheels are connected to the body by suspension arms, springs and shocks. the connections are connected by pivot points, the inherinet problems with pivots is that everything moves in circular motions. good suspension geometry takes into account these circular motions, and ensures that the wheel (and thus car) moves in a way that is predictable and keeps the tyre in the optimum position throughout the suspension travel. A massive amount of effort goes into this from a design point of view, much scratching of heads whilst staring at cad models, wondering how they are going to keep the tyre in the right place throughout the suspension travel. quite a difficult task..... then "Car enthusiasts" come along, throw in lowered springs and huge wheels, and stuff up all the good work that the suspension designers have done. the suspension starts to be used outside its design specifications...and the car handles like poo. in regards to s13 gear in ke/ae. the suspension and steering points on the s13 gear has been designed for an s13....not an ae86. so although it "works" it doesnt work that great. i have no technical data to back this up, other than ive driven on it for a few years. ae86 gear is identicle to ke70 stuff (or pretty close too) so the suspension points are the same...and thus works alot better. in realty, when you lower an ae86 (or any car really), you are stuffing with the suspension geometry. luckily you can mask the effects of this with RCA's and other gadgets. if you really want to learn about this stuff, download a program called "optimum k", you can experiment with suspension geometry pickup points, and check camber change etc throughout your suspension travel. Its very nerdy, so make sure your girlfriend doesnt see you using it. http://www.optimumg.com/OptimumGWebSite/Software/AboutOptimumK.html

with s13 gear its cheap to get a cheap setup. But its not cheap to get a good setup. geometry: you need to read up on suspension geometry , its a huge topic, very interesting though.

hehehe you know me too well. as for s13 RCA's...yes there is! they attach to the ball joint of the steering arm thing....allow you to lower the tie rod end down to correct the changes in geometry. there are a few different variations around from what i can tell. here is a quick one i found on the google machine. http://www.nengun.com/sun-line-racing/roll-centre-adjuster I'm not entirely sure on when the are required (it how low you need to go before yo need them...), i just bought a set of coilvoers for the s15, trying to work out if i need one of those RCA's or not:S in order to set that up it would be a slow proces, would need a bump steer guage and alot of time..doable at home though thats for sure.

edit: so i took to long to post....destroyer has covered a few of my points. ive had them both, and ae86 is far better. i am a convert as i thought the s13 stuff was great at first, but as i explain i realised it wasnt so great. ive had my ke70 for arond 4yrs now, put s13 gear straight in when i got it, it was cheap, brakes are awesome, but it never did quite feel right. i tried 3 different pairs of coilovers to try and get decent damping and suspension droop. the last set of coilovers i had were the best of the lot, 8kg with kyb AGX inserts inside of bridgestone coilovers. it just never felt quite right, the steering feel is not linea from lock-lock, it tends to get "harder" to steer close to full lock. before anyone sais "s13 gives to much track" this is EASILY fixed by BOLT IN R31 LCA's, brings the track back to about 10mm over stock (Same as the much loved xt130 arms). i have personally done it on my mates ae86, works great at bringing the wheels back into check. so onto the ae86 gear: at my whits end of the setup not feeling right, i bit the bullet and went for a complete ae86 JDM yo setup, jap 234x18mm brakes, with cheap sw20 rear kyb excel G shocks with 6gk springs, 40mm RCA's, weld on coilover kit, 6kg springs, brand new discs, calipers (reco'd), brake pads, tie rod ends, rack ends. the entire front of my car was brand new stuff. and it is fantastic. i can feel the shocks arent the greatest (you can't expect much from under $100 each), but it is very good. feels like driving a "normal" car, the steering is normal, it gives great feedback. and it takes the bumps very nicely. while gripping like crazy to the road. and it is sooooo much better than the s13 gear. just feels "normal" and gives you more confidence in the car (i find anyway). the only downside of the ae86 gear is that the stock jdm brakes (vented 234mmx18) are certianly not as good as the nissan stuff (ca s13 brakes are 250x20?, and every nissan brake pretty much bolts on...) but i reckon you can get pretty close with some good pads and some good fluid (have a chat to GSL rally sport). these ke70/ae86's are pretty light so you don't neeed much to make them stop (I'm just a sucker for huge brakes!!) i have hit up the mountain roads and had the brakes fade once or twice, but in general the 234x18mm's do a very good job. i reckon if you were to hit the track and intending to lean on the brakes ALOT (ie proper circuit racing, not really drift...) then you would definately need better brakes, go some wilwoods or the RX7 option. but for a street car the 234x18's are more than enough.

which computer did you get...? on a k motor i would be grabbing one of those haltech sprint computers, i think they are still around the $1k mark, prolly less now. i can see it being an expensive process, but 7g is quite excessive in my oppinion.

now thats not very nice is it. seems such a thing as "reverse cut gears" exist for differentials. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/8-reverse-cut-ring-and-pinion-differential-gears-fj80-lx450-front.html something to do with the front differentials in 4wd's. 4wd diff might be a bit chunky though..... so you flip a 4wd diff over, install some of those resvse cut gears, and i think that should sort it out....unsure though, don't quote me on this. but yeah far to much trouble than its worth i would think.

yeah there is that... i always wondered about the posibility of flipping over a differential to combat that issue. would be a pretty custom job thats for sure. but you would be getting a custom diff probably anyway.. unsure what effect this would have on oil delivery to the gears, probably not ideal. Or if diff gears are designed to be driven one direction, and if you drive them in "reverse" for an extended period of time is that bad for it? who knows...lots of issues to think about here.

i remember reading the main drama with that engine was the exhaust being on the drivers side, so you need some funky extractors to clear all the stearing gear. especially important with steering boxes etc in the old ke's. I'm sure anything is doable, have a look at beerhead's extractors he made, they look awesome. which is why its "more popular" in the US since the steering is on the other side. ps. that is a brilliant looking car, just needs a parker lense! (or whatever is usally beside the headlight)

care to elaborate? VTEC is quite possibly the greatest achievement in allowing an engine to have more power, while retaining great drivability in lower revs. why do you think its over rated? incorporating 2 or 3 camlobes for the valve train is a brilliant idea, allowing higher duration AND (most importantly) higher LIFT at high RPM's. the early vtec engines had that definate "Switch", but the later models are continuously variable valve timing, unsure how its done exactly, but its pretty damn awesome. most engine manufacturers are using the idea of variable valve timing these days, but my understanding is most (if not all) do not incorporate higher lift. in MY oppinion haters of vtec are those that don't understand how good it is.... a honda engine would be brilliant idea in RWD, but might be a challenge finding a RWD gearbox to suit. I'm sure you could machine up a chunky adaptor for it though, been done before on other engine/gearbox combos.

well done guys. I'm lookin forward to being taken for a spin!!! or more importantly hearing it from a distance....

don't be so negative! i give it 2hrs and he will have pulled it appart and it wont be driveable... :P

yep. you can get spacers that fill up that gap. little rings. go have a chat to a tyre shop, they should be able to sort you out. if not, find your local machinist, he will take a few measurements and be able to machine some up for you.

$1.57! ipswich eh....what fuel is that? bp ultimate has been ~$1.50 for a while. wont be long till it cracks $1.60. then i will bring my push bike out of retirement.

nothing wrong with over diff exhausts.... i have 2.25 over diff in the ke70, car is just legal height (only just). and ive never had a problem with it rattling or anything. Under diff makes NO sense on a live axel/diff car (ie ke70). as much as i am a fan of DIY, in my oppinion exhausts are something you just pay an exhaust shop to do. you can get an entire new exhaust fitted properly for under 200bucks. and if it rattles you take it back for them to fix it for free. if you are going to go the DIY route, you need to buy the proper bends, cut some straights to suit and should be good. thats how mine was done anyway, few off the shelf bends and a bit of straight pipe to join it all together.

damn not a bad result. decent looking power curve there too. well done on the project, its turned out great! ps. 43psi is alot of psi's!!! and on stock bottom end. next car will be an evo me thinks...

pending how good the wiring is in the car (being ke20, probably crap) you could rewire all your lights using 2 relays (one for low beam, one for high beam) run both your low beams off one relay (triggered off your original low beam main positive) run both your high beams off the other relay (triggered off your original high beam positive) run both relays main power straight to your battery, that way no voltage drop = epic lights. and how a relay works, and how you wire one up...start here: http://www.mp3car.com/the-faq-emporium/117895-faq-relays-how-they-work-and-how-to-wire-it-up.html