ke70dave

if you have a tacho aim for 800-900ish.

could be, I'm sure its not helping the situation. i would be more concerned about the leaking fuel first! grab another fuel pump and see how it goes.

"why so sly" ? about all i can get out of it.

the thing in the box is called your fuel pump! the leaking holes indicate that the diaphram inside the fuel pump has ruptured. they put those little holes there so that you know that the pump diaphram has ruptured. only option is to buy a new fuel pump. that thing in the box will come off with 2 x 12mm bolts into the block (maybe 10mm), pull of the fuel lines and remember where they go, and you put a complete new shiny silver thing on. a brand new fuel pump will cost around $100 or so i would think, you may be able to get a 2nd hand one from the wreckers, but i suggest a brand newy. edit: dagnamit, redwarf beat me to it. and he only used 9 words.

incorrect! i drive past cops all day in the corolla, never get a second look. But when it was multi coloured i got pulled over at every chance they got. only defect ive ever had was for my nardi steering wheel...but that was one of those setup defect stations. didnt even look at the rest of the car (bucket seat, 4age, suspensions...which are all mod plated anyway, but still...he only cared about the damn steering wheel!, i am yet to have to show a cop my mod plates)

i don't really know if this is a random photo. but its a random picture of some kind that i found mildly amusing: http://www.news.com.au/technology/pedobear-appears-in-americas-favorite-coupon-book-spruiking-for-cp-distributor/story-e6frfro0-1226025812331 i don't usually find the "pedobear" stuff funny, but this guy is pretty unlucky!

ah yep, a few months is better than a week! ive done the on side of road window rail bash a few times, driving to work in the rain it popped off once as i had to wind down window to stop the fogging... fell off its rail, pulled into servo to fix it, took about 15mins or so, got some funny looks as i was bashing my rail on the concrete, had to be done as i couldnt leave the car with the window down at work all day! i also considered drilling a hole in the glass and putting a bolt right through the window rail...might need to take it to a glass man for that though. doubt thats a good idea though!

how long did the band-aid work for you? ke70 is second car for me...so i don't use it all that often. btw when you say felted strips you are talking about what the window slides in? not the peice of rubber that sits between the window and the rail. i attacked the whole area with lanolyn spray once. that worked ok, untill it rained again.

i dunno what group my paint was (Standard ke70 dark blue metalic) but i think i only paid about $180 for 4L? also...i cannot stand that GLEE show. got to be the most annoying show in the world (second only cooking shows, but they are in a leage of their own)

which way did the car turn? given the camber on the road is towards the gutter, i would expect the car to turn to the....right? ( i think) edit: re read your post. you said it slid "left", so the back of the car went to the left? (towards the gutter?) or the car turned to the left (back slid to the right, away from gutter) find a perfectly flat peice or road (maybe a carpark, don't get caught by security!) and try it again. also check your rear brake shoe adjustment, make sure its the same on both sides. do you have stock tyres? ie skinny ones? if they are reasonably old, and just cheapys then they will be quite unpredictable at the best of times, let alont locked up in the wet.

maybe my ke70 has the same problem. currently both front windows continaully fall off their rails, and i think it is becuase the window gets stuck in the rubber rails...i thought it was because of the recent rain the rubber gets wet and "bloats" and the window gets stuck in the wet rubber. I'm considering just getting the silicon out to make sure the window doesnt fall off its rail again. good idea? if so any suggestions on a silicon that will stick to glass? I'm not interested in it being pretty i just need to be able to wind down my window without it falling inside the door! its too damn hot to drive around with the windows up all the time.

welcome mate. what do you know about the 3sgte conversion? once you work out what is required for the conversion, then that will tell you which one of the cars is easier! 3sgte is not an easy conversion, essentially everything is custom made. from engine mounts to manifolds. also consider that with a 3sgte you are going to need some bigger brakes to pull you up and some suspension to keep it on the road. so ease and availability of brake/suspension upgrades must be taken into account for the car that you choose. are you able to fabricate/weld yourself? there is a HUGE difference between the 4age blacktop and the 3sge/3sgte (in terms of conversions). with the correct parts a 4age will bolt into a ke70. unfortuantely the same cannot be said for the 3s motors.

painting is the easy part. making the car straight enough so that it looks good once its painted, that is the hard part! and making the car straight isnt expensive, just takes ALOT of time. and for the last time...yes a 5k is a good upgrade. no need to rush modifications based on money, just keep saving and looking out for a good engine. you're only talking $500 dollars here, not $6000. on my car i went suspension > paint > engine conversion (4age). over 3yrs... i prolly should have started with paint as it was pretty shocking (5 different colours on the car for 18months of ownership) if your car is all the same colour, give it a cut and polish and a buff and you may find it comes up good enough. afterall its only an old corolla! and once you start painting, you are committed to finishing it. and lastly....whatever you do...do not paint it matt black.

i just read the first link in that google search, http://www.classicrallyclub.com.au/docs/Tips_tuning_Weber_carburettors_DVAndrews.pdf very interseting stuff!! one of these days i endevour to use some decent carbys on something.

not seen your thread before mate! very nice work. good to see you getting stuck into it! should be a fun little car when you are finished! as for those shocks, you might have something good there! chuck them in and see how they go. if they are stuffed, but turn out to be a good brand you coudl look at getting them rebuilt. a good shock place will be able to tell you if they are good shocks or not!

being a 4k just weld the piston back together! nah better not do that. i would be inclined to replace all 4, even if it is with 4 second handy's from another motor.

sounds like you need an LSD?

not so much a grinds my gears. but you know when your driving along, and some song comes on the radio, and somehow the noises in the song sound like a part of your car is breaking? so you panic, quickly turn down radio..only to realise that the noise that you thought was your wheel nuts loose was in fact some annoying electronic noise! happened to me yesterday! pissing down rain too. i so didnt want to get out and fix something. note: ive never actually had anything mechanical break on my while driving, but given ive done up all the bolts in my car, its always in the back fo my mind!!

that is very cool! sorts out most of the problems easily! and if you have an EFI manifold to go on, don't need to worry abou the throttle body injection. i like how he has done the crank angle sensor. thats nifty!

yeah ive heard about those camira ecus. too much effort though. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb22-assembled-unit-p-34.html $252US + post, complete programable ecu or $152 us + post if you are handy with a soldering iron http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb22-kit-black-case-p-128.html

not exaclty sure what you are asking mate. but if you don't have the standard ecu, the only option is to get a programable one. it comes down to how much work you can do yourself, are you good with wiring/electronics? in your circumstance a megasquirt ecu is the perfect option, but its not an easy task to wire one up.

i dare say you can't call that an engine conversion. since it came with the twin cam from factory, just yours didnt? (4afe, or 4afc i assume). more an engine replacemnt that just happends to have a better head than the original one. --- now onto the 5k, pull it out now before you do more damage! at least it might be saveable as it is, may only need bearings not a crank grind!

there should be a tyre sticker/placard on your car somewhere that tells ya? maybe inside the door jam somewhere. i can't even remmber where it is on my ke70....but it will be around somewhere.

good work! thats exactly what i was thinking as i was reading down the thread. i had the exact same issue when i used s13 camber tops with my 86 coilovers (sw20 shocks with some coilover kit, otomoto i think). had to get the local machinist to machine up a small sleeve to take up the slack between the spring top and the camber plate, and allow the camber plate to properly pivot.

this is interesting: http://www.logoblog.org/toyota-logo.php dunno if its correct, seems to make sense: (starts of talking about your logo up there, and goes to talk about the current logo) In 1936, when Toyoda Automatic Loom Works Ltd. was launching its first passenger car, it needed a new trademark to commemorate the launch. For that purpose, a competition was held to establish a logo that would promote the company’s vehicles. The design requirement of the company was to create something that will express ‘the feeling of speed’. Thus, the winning logo resulted in the change of the name from ‘Toyoda’ to ‘Toyota’. This was as the Japanese lettering of ‘Toyota’ gave the logo a sleek look and was also chosen because the number of strokes in the Japanese word ‘Toyota’ (eight) was considered to bring luck and prosperity. Although no longer used on products, the original Toyota logo is still used as the company’s emblem and is given to the employees of the company upon joining. The current Toyota logo consists of the name “TOYOTA” in roman type with three ovals in red and white color scheme. ‘The two perpendicular center ovals represent a relationship of mutual trust between the customer and Toyota. These ovals combine to symbolize the letter "T" for Toyota. The space in the background implies a global expansion of Toyota's technology and unlimited potential for the future’