ke70dave

rose joints require the LCA to be modified with a welder and welders make things hot!

the only one i have had any experience with was this one: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-lc1-digital-wideband-controller-with-sensor-3769-p-41.html which i think is the same one styler is talking about? seemed to work good, we used it with the megasquirt ecu.

the only kit i have seen that looks anything like a ke70 is this one http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r76934135 kind of the DX/panel van front. there used to be some on ebay, maybe check there, unfortunately its blocked at work for me...

so you are allowed to spend 500? if you can stretch that a bit you could get some wheels from otomoto. something like this: http://otomoto.shop033.com/p/4352093/hero-15x65-15x7.html or this http://otomoto.shop033.com/p/4352094/impul-pro-mesh-15x7.html (though they need tyres)

lots of light weight rims look good :y: i think what you are trying to say is: -cheap -look good -handle well you can pick 2.

its too hard to say what it is worth. to 99% of the population its not worth anything. to the scrap metal you might get 100bucks. some people manage to find complete running ke70's for under $300 other people try and charge 1000 for a shell with a few dents. from what you are describing i wouldn't be paying more than about 200bucks for the shell alone. few extra hundred for those extra bits perhaps.

are these 12 slotters made of steel? cause they are going to weight a ton. sure you may think they look cool, but they will be rather detrimental to the handling of the vehicle.

happened to my girlfriends iphone when she upgraded to OS4 or whatever the latest is. unless you have done a backup on your pc, using itunes (which sounds like you have some olderones), then unfortunately they are all gone. apple is annoying in that it encrypts everything as well so even if you do find them you need a special program to read them outside of itunes/ipod (which do exist) how did yours come about being deleted? an OS upgrade? if they have become corrupt or something and are still on the phone somewhere, you can probably find a way of extracting the files off the phone and trying to read information out of them....when i tried this there was a fair bit of info out there about it, tedious though.

about 80% what an sr20det would be in a s13.

"I'm beginning to think, that some people in this world, have started to mate with vegetables" -Jeremy Clarkson (On the american road trip episode)

hmm that is interesting... i know my s15 does a quick prime when you switch it to IGN (but not start), i noticed this in my mates s13 too. with my 4a because it doesnt prime (for whatever reason) i find i need to give the starter a quick blip to get it to prime the fuel pumps, then i go to start it again and it starts well. if i don't do that priming thing, it tends to turn over longer as its pumping the fuel up (i don't think i have a non return valve in my fuel pump either...) anyway....i used this to wire mine up http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Circuit_Opening_Relay_Wiring

welcome mate, a guide on the conversion can be found here: http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493 as for the box itself, you need either a k40 or k50. get the k50, 5 speed, usually around $100-150, they are somewhat sort after, as opposed to the 4 speed (k40) which tend to be alot cheaper.

hmm this isnt the case in my car. i hooked mine up using the circuit opening relay with the ECU (as per the wiki article on here somewhere) the fuel pump should run when the engine is cranking, and when the engine is running. otherwise if you crash, and you leave the car in ignition, then you could potentially be spraying fuel everywhere.

1984 mazda 323 hatch, 1.5L carby FWD.(essentially the same as the ford laser) bought it from the neighbours back in 2003, for the sum of $1100 un rego'd. (260,000kms) very good condition, straight as, no rust, almost perfect interiour. just needed a new headgasket. this car was actually in "overrated" condition, all pin stripes were in order, no previous damage that i could see, even had all 4 chrome rings on the wheels! did the head on it (reco'd a wreckers head), got L's soon after, i drove it for about 2 yrs, then bought ke70. sold the mazda to my brother, he learnt to drive in it, then drove it everywhere (hes a trady, worked everywhere), head needed to be done again (the reco'd head was a dud apperently). drove it for about 3yrs total, then sold it to my other brother! he but learnt to drive in it, and drove it for 2-3yr (another trady), but neglected it a bit, maintenance wasn't kept up to it. he has recently sold it, for a grand total of $500, with about 325,000km's. needs 4 new shocks, has a few nice dings from an encounter with a concrete wall and an energex truck (still driveable), just need to replace a few panels... served us well the ol' mazda thats for sure. with a bit of maintenance it would go for another 100,000km at least i reckon....

my mate bought a clutch disc for his s1 rx7 from exedy. just the disc, no pressure plate or kit. he got it from supercheap auto, just walked on in with a part number and picked it up the next day. not sure where he got he part number from...exedy website maybe? was a ceramic cushioned button somethingarutha.

with that dieseling issue, it can also be caused by carbon build up in the combustion chamber igniting what is left of fuel mixture. what can help is a bit of a steam clean of your engine, spraying a fine mist of water through your engine while it is running. there is also this wonderful stuff called "subaru upper cylinder head cleaner", only available through subaru (around 16bucks a can). follow the instructions on the can, involves filling up your intake manifold with the foamy stuff with engine off, start engine (quite difficult at first, make sure battery is in good condition), then spraying the stuff into intake manifold while running. its like carby cleaner on steroids.... worked wonders on my s15, cleaned it out real good....and ran uber smooth after it.

"project car" and "cheap" should never be put into the same sentence. unless its a bush basher....

so long as you give the ECU the signal it wants, it wont matter what cas you use. and we are only talking about hall effect sensors here, just as long as the ECU can interpret what the pulses refer to. http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6894 looks like he has used the factory gze cas on that thing (I'm guessing since they don't specify another cas...) http://files.haltech.com/downloads/platinum/Platinum_Sprint/quick_start_sprint_500.pdf more info on the sprint, fairly basic PDF. i believe that the smallport distributor is "better" to use with an aftermarket ecu, than the bigport one. smallport one has 3 sensors from what i can gather, bigport only has 2...or something. http://www.haltech.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/sprint_500_wiring.pdf going by that, the sensors are all 0-5V, which is what toyota uses. and it has a "trigger" and then a "trigger home" for the cas, fairly sure the bigport uses that method...or you can easily make it like that. in conclusion. research research research!!

i believe that someone has used 4age pistons in a k motor before. and there are heaps of forged 4age pistons around. else maybe 1G might be the go according to this: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/30364-4age-pistons-into-4k/ might be best to contact a piston manufacture, give them the specs on pistons you want (pin height, size..whatever) and ask if they have anything to suit. surely something has to come close that is available.

ANY aftermarket ecu will run a simple 4age turbo. what you need to do is download the manuals for each of them and study the crap out of them. figure out how all the sensors work....and then you can figure out how you are going to wire them up. there is alot of calibration of sensors required, so you may get away with using the standard ones (and just calibrating them), just depends on the individual ecu's requirements. i haven't looked into ecu's ages, but the new haltech range is supposed to be good, cheapest one is under 1000$ too. essentially they all do the same thing, and you arent looking for any fancy features with a simple 4age turbo, no vvti etc. what is more important than the ECU is the guy behind the laptop tuning it;)

this is getting out of hand. scar92, next time figure out a way of asking questions like this without blatantly saying you are going to do something illegal and it will keep everyone happy.

that is a cool contraption matty. what will be your main purpose for it? speedo and AFR's?

any corolla is quite capable of sliding itself into a tree. best corolla to slide? they are all RWD (well up untill ae82), all light, and all underpowered and gutless. unfortunately you can't do much about the underpowered and gutless department until you get off your p plates. if you want to slide on your p's, i suggest an SR20de s13. they are so cheap now, seen a few for under 5k! set of coilovers, sway bars, some good tyres a few adj arms to get a good alignment. get yourself onto a track and have a ball. you will never get the same out of any corolla without an engine conversion and Alot of cash spent on suspension. to be honest, unless you are hellbent on getting a corolla, weather it be for looks, or the oldschoolness (which are both valid reasons), then grab a nissan for easy fun sideways action.

ae82 may be the same as well, that what i used on the t18 bar. brackets not perfect, just made up some new ones. alot 80's toyotas used the same rectangular indicator. shouldn't be hard to find something that fits at the wreckers!

stock silver with a red pin stripe around the edge perhaps? but yeah definately not any of those colours.