ke70dave

you will find that all topgear eps are 59-60mins long (BBC, no addverts, 1hr show) what they tend to do on ausi tv (they used to, not sure now) is chop out the "star in our reasonably price car". which is about 20mins long, just enough to play topgear for 1hr, with 20mins of adverts.

i never watch TV at home, ie...never. then when i go over to mates houses, they tell me "oh i love this advert"...which of course i have never seen before, which people are generally shocked at. and i think...arent we here to watch a TV show, not the adverts between them? i am so sick of advertising, you cannot get away from it. as long as TV continues to waste 30% of my viewing time on advertisements, i wont watch it!

8kg referes to 8kg/mm so for every milimeter of movement in the spring, it requires 8kg of weight on top of it. so if you weigh 90kg, you will get around 11mm of deflection in the spring if you sit on it. which is not alot. you will get more if you bounce up and down though. (edit, assuming the spring is linear)

you don't have much luck with diffs do you matty. let me know if you want to sell those 4:3's....i may be keen.

My girlfriend has been to that place, did the inca trail i belive (climbed up over a few days). some of her photos are incedible, especially that place you have there chobis. definately on my list of places to visit.

that is wicked!. before you do anythign else you need to create a build thread for that! or at least post more pics. what may help you out, is search around on the net (torrents..) for this spreadsheet that can help you calculate these things. there was a torrent around that was something like "TRD manuals" has heaps of good info. google "toyota TRD manuals torrent"...i think its the first one. but there is a spreadsheet and you put in all your drivetrain details (tyres, gear ratios, diff ratios etc) and it will give you a graph of all the speeds in all the gears. its quite easy to do the calcs yourself, but someone has already done all the work for you in this spreadsheet! if you can't find it send me a PM with your email address and i can forward you the spreadsheet when i get home from work. if you want to work out what is the "best" ratio, you need to decide how fast you want to go, then design your ratio so that you keep your engine in the torque band for as long as possible...i think.

8kg is a bit over the top.... i have 6kg in the front of the ke70 at the moment, if i had better shocks (i only have excel g's...cheap!) i would be putting in softer ones, but the excel-g shocks are only just passable on the 6kg's. (i also cannot be stuffed as i just put up with it for the time being) forget those 8kg/6kg springs, spend all your cash on a set of bilstein or koni shocks (or simliar GOOD shocks), and go for something like 5kg and 4kg, or even 4kg and 3kg. (i am unsure as to why we always put slightly softer springs in the rear...given that it should be pretty close to 50/50 weight distribution, let the rear squat a bit for more grip perhaps?) you just don't need 8kg/6kg in a sub 1000kg car. your teeth will break. i know this because i had 8kg/6kg a few yrs back, i got talked into it on the internet as being "the thing to do". little did i know that those spring rates were perfect for driving on a billiard table. but that is about it. in the real world you need soft springs, and good shocks.

its not that we hate you or are intentionally trying to flame you... but i think you will appreciate that if we gave an itemised required parts list (with prices) for 4age/sr20/3sge conversion into ke** for every one that asked for one, we would be writing lists all day. not to mention that prices are always variable, so in reality they don't mean much anyway. and considering that all the information required for all of these conversions already exists somewhere, there is no real need for us to start listing stuff in every thread on this topic (about once every 3 days a thread like this comes up). else i may as well just write up the list, save it on my desktop, and every time someone asks "what do i need and how much does it cost to put a 4age in my Ke**" i should just ctrl+c and ctrl+v. a viable option maybe, but that just encourages laziness. so the idea is, you go away and do your own research on each of the conversions, spend hours, days, weeks researching, copy and pasting to ms word, saving photos into a directory for reference later. keep doing this untill you have covered every aspect of the conversion from cooling, wiring, manifolds, bolts, what parts you should buy new (clutch, spigot bearing etc) and then if you have some specific things that you do not understand or need clarification on , then you ask, and people will be happy to help if you can show that you have put some effort into understanding but just haven't got there yet. before i even bought the first thing i required for my 4age conversion, i had folders and folders of tech articles, photos, saved posts from people. all with very good information that i knew i would need. so when issues arrose during the conversion i had the info already there. which came in handy at 11am on a Saturday when i realised i needed a part from the wreckers and the wreckers closed in 30mins!

for crying out loud. please do some of your own research. you are going to be the one that is going to be putting all of this together, therefore you need to know exactly what you need. its not as easy as saying "it costs this much". except for the exhaust, everything else required for the conversion is NOT OFF THE SHELF. thus the prices vary...alot. eg: my 4age = $130 (most parts, except manifolds) ive seen them for sale for $900+.... start here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/5644-4age-into-ke70-ae71-conversion-the-step-by-step-noob-guide/ make a list of all the parts you will need, then research how much each part is likely to cost you. then when you have finished your list. double it. Thats about how much it costs. (my standard 16V 4age into my ke70 cost me approximately $3000, once i added up all the costs, which i have done before and posted on rollaclub, but i can't find it)

you can get a pretty good wheel alignment at home with just using a tape measure to measure the distance between the fronts and back of the wheels. you can't set castor or toe properly at home (you can have a good go), but toe is quite easy to set. just keep the steering wheel straight, and adjust both sides the same amount. keep measuring between the front and back of the tyres untill they are the same, then you wheels should be straight! (if the LCA;s are longer than the ones you had in there, then that will defiantly cause toe out, experiment in seeing if you have enough adjustment in the items you have, else you may need to go for the ra60? rack ends which are longer, have the extra tube to give you more length)

how does this work? ---- you really need to work out the FINE details of each conversion you are considering doing. and decide for yourself the best one for you. these details will not come from creating threads on forums, you need to dig deep into other peoples build threads, send the builders specific questions about what you have read etc.

you sir, need to open up microsoft excel start a new spread sheet, and call it "ca18det conversion" then start researching, and start finding out what you need to get done, make a list. then get your phone book out, and start ringing around different places and getting ideas on how much stuff costs, add it into the formentioned spreadsheet, and keep a tally on the total. asking "can thisbe done for $10k", is a waste of time. some people have probably done the conversion for under 2k, mates with free parts, mates with skills. others have probably spent 25k, by dropping off their car at "insert rip off performance shop here" and picking it up 3 weeks later. for reference, we put a ca in my maters 86, torago diff, engine mount "kit" he got from somewhere. made our own intercooler pipes, wired it ourself. prolly got away with the entire conversion for $5k. it was only a standard ca18turbo (well standard + good exhaust, good front mount intercooler and 12psi), and it was damn quick, you don't need any more in a ~1000kg corolla.

good news everyone! had some success tonight. damanged it a bit though, still useable. vice + dad + stilsens + 1m steel tube on end of stilsens + heat (to the point of untouchable) = the ability to turn the coilover 1/4 of a turn at a time. it never became loose. it is bloody tight. all the threads that come out of the base are full of rust. ended up turning it just enough to get the height i desire. but it was a fight all the way. actually damaged the casing of the bush/spherical bush, it had a nice shoulder that i fit a 3/4" spanner around to hold it still. started to round quite badly!!!! still usable though. so, a rollaclub top tip. if you have coilovers, tomorrow buy some grease, and pull them appart!!! and apply copius amounts of grease, and reassemble...

i didnt do anything with coke bottles on my 4age in the ke70? i just blocked off everything with bolts and hose clamps.... and use the throttle stop bolt thing to crack open the throttle to allow it to idle. downside is there is no idle up when it is cold....so you gota be a bit gentle until the car warms up.

can't help you with the parts... but your car looks absolutely fantastic!!!!! if you have any more photos of the build process we would all be interested to see them. do you have any more photos of it with the new paint? i love the color.

and to summarise, yes tyre walls deflect: http://www.tireguytogo.com/images/bent_rim-1.jpg this is a good photo that goes it as well. ugly car, but check the drivers side front wheel. http://www.stowaway.us/gallery/d/972-2/srt4.jpg the only way to tell if huge wheels will fit your car is to try some on! 18x8 id say will be pushing it....upside is you will increase your ground clearance 10 fold.

i would save up and buy some wheels and some good tyres.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/38104-gregorys-ke20-service-n-repair-manual/ he may still have it, give him a call. unsure if you can put it through the shifter hole, maybe. open it up and have a look. you can on the T50. there is usually 2 bolts on the gearbox, one for filling, one for emptying. you empty it using the empty hole, and fill it up using the filling hole. and you keep filling untill it comes out the filling hole... buy a gregorys :y:

grab a gregories manual for your car. mr gregory has already done a step by step for you :y:

I'm fairly sure everything is aluminium (the outside definately is, i think the thread is too) i should get out the magnet to confirm. dad has a massive pipe wrench which combined with a bit of rubber/rag will be able to get a good grip on the threaded section, and I'm not sure what temp his heat gun is, its not bad though, hoping its enough! i intend on grabbing the threaded section where in a section where i am not likely to use (somewhere in the middle....) currently it is sitting at home wallowing in WD40, so hopefully it helps...

well you see in that photo. the locking nut is a "C spanner" style. but the locking nut is not the problem, that came off easy. and spins up the thread all fine. the base of the coilover has no notches or places to put the C spanner. it is supposed to spin freely, and you use the locking nut to hold it still. this is a photo of my actual shockies (Well not mine mine, but a photo of mine): http://springrates.com/catalog/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/JIC_Magic_FLT_FA_4a294d30a9a13.jpg right hand ones are the rears, that red ring is the locking not, only ~5mm thick, that locks it together. where as the yellow/gold bottom/base section is threaded onto the bottom. has no provision for C spanner on it. just a smooth body with a thread on the inside. edit: no good in the car (i tried that, as i had them all in, and then tried to adjust...and found the problem), as the shock absorber just spins, and you cannot grab hold of the threaded section, there is nothing to grab hold of!

just thought i would see if anyone had any ideas on how i should tackle this. ive picked up a set of JIC coilovers for the s15. second hand unfortunately, but they look in very good condition overall....and they were cheap (traded some other parts for them) and i cannot for the life of me move the base on one of the rears!! for those unfamiliar with them they look like these (this is just a google image NOT MY ACTUAL ITEMS) http://i46.tinypic.com/2yye97b.jpg the one closest is a Rear coilover, you can see the base is threaded onto the shock body. the majority of coilvoers do not have the base adjustment, but these do and you can get more height out of them (which is what i want) and mine is stuck good!!! problem is the guy before me had them set very low, and they need to be moved up to make it a reasonable height. other wise i could possibly just run them as they are...the other 3 spin fine, but the last one does not. things i have tried: -copious amounts of WD40 -this "locktite freaze and release" stuff -a spanner on the spherical bush end, an a good wack with a hammer (combined with a dodgy strap wrench attempting to hold the shock still) -my housemates muscles (i have none) things i am yet to try: -this stuff called "PB blaster", everyone on the net seems to recomend it, also "kroil" is another product that gets mentioned alot. both difficult to get, need to get them from specialist places (not repco or supercheap auto) -putting the shock in a vice and trying to turn it off (don't have a vice at my house, might get to parents house tonight), its a soft vice (not metal faces), but i prolly can't put to much pressure on it without damaging the thread. -HEAT! (I'm gonna pick up a heat gun from parents house tonight....) the main drama is it is very difficult to hold the threaded section of the coilover in order to get a decent amount of force onto the base. my last option is just to take it somewhere (maybe a shock reco joint) and say "fix this"!!! i am hoping the heat works, but there is a sticker on the shock that specifically sais "do not heat" so its a last resort type thing... any suggestions are welcome!! as this has been going on for 2 weeks now, and i miss my turbo and aircon:(

unplug your TPS and see if it stops, if it does, you may need to adjust your tps. i just kept adjusting mine until it sounded good. you can kinda hear it when it clicks into "idle mode" on the TPS (there is a microswitch in there to tell ecu throttle is closed) else you have an air leak.

yeah my s15 has that metal brake line like that too. weird hey. how big are the 2 pot pistons compared to the original items? if you meausure the diameter of your standard piston, and measure the diameter (s) of the new 2 pot item. you can work out how much extra fluid is required to get the same movement, take into account that the 2 pistons only need to move half as far as the single pot original (since there are 2 of them pushing towards each other, i think this is correct...) in my limited experience with using over sized calipers on standard master cylinder (s13 calipers on ke master), you do get a different pedal feel, the pedal is still hard to push but you need to push the brake pedal further to get the car to stop, but it worked great like that for 3yrs...so you should still get something that is useful from your setup. spongy feel to me is definitely an air in the system problem. though the fact that it comes good after a few pumps...also to me sounds like a mastercylinder problem. might be worth taking the MC out and getting it checked over. also re: suspension. sounds like your shocks are stuffed. get some new ones if they are the standards, cut springs + standard (potentially stuffed) shocks = mushy mushy.

nice to see another thread that has a decent story included! rather than just a mod's list. enjoyable read! look forward to seeing progress. edit: i had a good laugh at the "castle" reference.