ke70dave

http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp + ruler. knock yourself out. then you will know for sure... you might have to measure the size/offset of the ke30 wheel, unless someone knows what it is.

is that a photo shop, can't really see any tyre on the front right wheel? and doesnt look like it is running much castor...hardly cambering at all! edit...it seems that shady's and bubbles photos are different... I'm confused. bubbles is a photoshop, shadys is real? shadys looks more real...

on thursday I'm going to the gabba! to see the lions play! and I'm avoiding driving the corolla this weekend, mmm double points and cops that are angry that they have to work over easter:P

I'm not a fan of that seal up crap, but agreed it can be a quick easy fix to get you going for a bit. rowantsarolla , when you remove the headgasket please make sure you take the head down to a machinist and get it checked out/faced/machined whatever. no point putting a head back on that is stuffed!

unlucky so far..but it looks nice!! ive been in a 318i one, and the poor little 1.8L was struggling a bit.. how do these things go with the 2.5L I6? must go pretty well? i always wanted an e30, but have always been a bit hesitant re: parts cost.....

ive always just used sidchrome. i got a reasonable size socket set about 6yrs ago, and then i got a nice sidchrome spanner set about 3yrs ago. ive never broken anything so not had to worry about warranty. then i have the toolbox which has various screwdrivers/pliers that do the job. no need to go too fancy on tools for backyard use, look after any remotely decent tool and it will last a long time.

may want to include your location.. just take it to your local machinist, around 50bucks usually. i sure wouldn't be trusting a random forum member to machine my flywheel, but hey up to you!

good idea, but it does not matter one bit what we all think. the only opinion that matters is the guy that is going to sign off you car. because that is what the police and insurance company will look at. unfortunately you are correct in that even from the authorities you can get 10 different answers for the same question. here is a good place to start: http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications.aspx read through alot of that, print stuff out, get out your highlighter to the important parts, so when you go and see DOT/engineer you look intelligent!

i really don't understand why they use such low profile tyres! it just looks rediculous, especially the rear...

yep it works....but its not ideal. and it makes a heck of a noise. (i too ran it for a few months, before putting in my surge tank) VL's have a lift pump that works with the high pressure pump, high pressure pumps do not like sucking fuel at all and i belive will eventually fail if asked to suck fuel for too long. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/Installing_EFI_Lifter_Pump_into_AE86_Fuel_Tank i did this on my car, works brilliantly.

you can buy self brake bleeding kits, which is basically a piece of hose with a 1 way valve inline. then you just put one end on your bleed nipple, the other end in a coke bottle with a bit of fluid in the bottom. howeever, i would get someone to help. you need to be able to see the bubbles coming out the caliper, no good just doing it untill "pedal feels good", might be full of bubbles still.. i am sure that people have had success with doing it by themselves, i just don't trust it...

fare enough, but experience shouldnt involve wasting alot of cash. by the sounds of it, this is what you want: very rough estimates.. engine/gbox - allow $600. to4z- 2000new (i have a feeling this is the wrong choice anyway, given that they run these on 12a's, and they are alot smaller capacity than a 4L 6, check compressor maps) ecu to run it all reliably - 1500 + 1000 in tuning = not much change from 3000 (allowing for an o2 sensor) engine mounts (if you can't DIY) allow 700 diff shortening + modding = 1000 new tailshaft= 500 weld in cage - 3000 (properly done, they cost big bucks) sort suspension - allow 2000. sort brakes - allow another 1500 exhuast (including a custom manifold (S?)) with an external gate ) allow 800 + rest of exhuast = 1000 external gate (say tial) = 400 radiator of some sort - allow 200 maybe custom intercooler piping, + intercooler + polishing disc = 1000 (maybe more) fuel system to run all this = 600 now adding all that up you get - $17,500 adding 33% for the fact that an engine build always goes over budget = 23275 or $24k. now this does not take into account doing anything to the motor to get it to run boost, oil lines, cooling lines any of that jazz. prepared to spend ~20k on a conversion just because knowone has done it before? and then watch someone with a 4agte run rings around you because it doesnt weight 12ton at the front end? i sure wouldnt be!! getting experience is a good thing, wasting money and calling it experience...is not. now I'm sure you can get some of these items cheaper, howeever this is a worst case scenario but it will leave you with a GOOD car, that has been done properly. note: proper LSD>locker.

c'mon SLW.....your list is rediculous. agree with xy500. polished intercooler? what the? how about finshing one of your current cars? and making a succes of one?

very well done!!! so easy and effective, how you like 4age? if i get a change if you don't mind i can put this into the FAQ? or better yet, if you can write it all up neatly, with explanation (its pretty good now), I'm sure we can copy and paste it for you into the FAQ.

but does that 1100 include labour? if so.... 400 for 4 springs (prolly kings i guess?) 400 for 4 shocks (doesnt get much cheaper than 100each....prolly monroe or something)) 300 for labor (70-80/hr is about the going rate for a mechanic) sounds about right to me. i you have 1100 to spend on suspension, find someone with some 2nd hand lowered springs of some description, buy 4 x bilstein B6's from US ebay. get a rattle gun and some spring compressors, and your car will handle ALOT better than the cheap shocks, look good, and you would have learnt something about you car!

btw is there a fan behind that contraption?

every engines loves a bit of cold air. in regards to your rear speaker setup, if you are running a sub, you really should be running a high pass filter on your rear speakers, so they don't produce any bass. otherwise you can get funky influences from the bass from the speakers interacting with the bass from your sub. in my car (not a corolla, but same deal), all 4 speakers run on a high pass of 125hz, and the sub runs on a low pass of 125hz. 25mm is a bit extreme for that parcel shelf i would think, thats going to weight a ton! 800bucks for springs/shocks sounds about right... (springs around 200/pair, shocks the same...) for brand new stuff. not a cheap excercise, few hours of labour and you will be over $1000.

that is fantastic. leave it as it is! make sure those hose clamps are tight! that looks like an oil cooler off an twinky corolla?

ill take the forza 3 xbox drift challenge. now to dust off the xbox and see if i can run a network cable to my router...damn only wireless in new house. t18drifts, trev, send me a pm with your xbox live ID's or whatever i need to add you to my friends thing, I'm always keen for a race!

T18drifts...you are digging a hole...and its filling with water. I suggest stop digging....

undo everything you have done. replace the fuses, let us know how you go. never wire a subwoofer to a cigarette lighter.... lights should be ok though.

i read this yesterday, and the word "finally" put shivers down my spine. now i read it took 5 attempts?!?!?! i think you had better tell us what happened on the other 4, just for our curiosity!

an ae71/ke70 (slant front) visits a guy near me from what i can gather... he parks on the nature strip along seabreeze road manly west. he came screaming up my street the other day, made heaps of noise, but not goin that quick, so i assume 4kc/4ac:P its white, with long champ wheels, and big black fender mirrors.

when i went to japan, went with a few guys from uni, one guy...had no situational awareness at all... standing in tokyo train station in peak hour, with a huge backpack on...he would just keep walking slowly around, stopping in the middle of masses of people to look at his train timetable, then spin around and hit a bunch of people with his backpack...and be completely oblivious to the chaos he was causing. it was so bad, all i could do was laugh.

agreed with mr silver. maybe even try and hire a compressor rather than buying one. try and get the biggest you can get, you need to be able to get enough air to empty one mix of paint, you don't want to be waiting for the compressor to fill up while you have paint in your gun ready to go. forget supercheap for everything other than sandpaper. go to a proper auto paint shop, i bought quite a decent gun for 90bucks, so much better than the supercheap crap. and when you go to a paint shop, you arent dealing with a 17yr old kid who doesnt know what they are talking about. yes get a water trap, we even ran two of them when i did (cause we had 2 lying around...) we bought the supercheap gun quite a number of years ago (mainly to get the air line attachements, just happened to come with a paint gun too), we were just painting the engine bay....i mean it worked...but only just, wouldn't want to paint a car with it thats for sure. btw: that orange ke20 looks awesome!