ke70dave

surely someone will have some bolts for you. edit: sneaky loveke70 got in before me. buy his! or go to wreckers and remove some. wreckers near me doesnt charge for bolts! i went in there once and got an entire ice cream container of bolts and nuts, free:D

so this thread was started on 8march, its 1st June today. how is the registering progress going? So you can actually drive it somewhere to do previously mentioned drifting. unless i have missed something in the last few pages of arguments.

i think the front left wheel was off the ground for at least 40% of the track.

nah no pics unfortunately. mine has gone hard again after shortening (about 1yr ago), so i figure all that is left to do is add oil.

i actually shortened my ke70 cable. just hacked up the outer plastic casing, cut out a bit, "joined" it back together using a little peice of metal tube to join the plastic casing back together. seems to work well. mine does need an oil though thats for sure.

id say it would depend on the thickness of the tubing etc. your in Perth i see, but in Brisbane we have these huge welding supply stores. i went into one once and the guys that worked there were very knowledgeable. hopefully they hire similar intelligent people over your end of the internet. i say just take in what you want to weld, and say "what do i need to weld this".

yeah that does kinda suck. but hey worth a try i guess... i would usually try my luck at something like that if it had been for sale for 1month....not 29mins! what annoys me more, is when someone low balls you, you accept as you could do with some cash, then they never come through with the purchase.

am early 90s starlet worked well on my mates 4a 86.

google "3tgte weight" http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/viewthread.php?tid=16200 the answer even shows a photo of the engine, and what is on it, ON THE SCALES. 165kg with what looks like the majority of the ancilaries, minus gearbox.

i gave up on ae86dc quite a while ago. got a bit sick of the same old threads about people trying to fit 15"x23" -76 wheels on their cars. though i have managed to sell my stuff on there, i generally look through the WTB's and sell stuff to people. works out well.

great idea, don't expect it to be easy. i think you need to decide what you want to do with the, then decide what engine is legal in you car, then decide if you have the ability to perform said engine conversion. can you weld? can you fabricate? also: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/36900-my-build-ke30-12a/

i just hope that the bog stays there...hopefully you don't pick up a large rock one day and crack the bog off! looks good now though.

yeah but you see, if you have the car low, with short stroke shocks in a non shortened strut...at static height (even with the guard is alot lower than stock) the shock may be at 80% bump travel. so when you go over a small bump the shock may bottom out...damaging your shock, and sending you off into the trees. do you understand why short stroke shocks are used? by the sounds of it you may as well just use standard stroke shocks. I'm trying to find this good diagram explaining short stroke shocks, can't find it anywhere!

edit: just re read your post where yo mention QLD.... ill look again. i have a mate who may be able to help, hes always away with work though. edit: these guys say mod plates on their advert http://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/capalaba/hi-tech-auto-repairs-pty-ltd-12439856-listing.html?context=businessTypeSearch&referredBy=www.yellowpages.com.au so just give them a call, and if they can't do it, they may be able to point you in the right direction.

i had a feeling something toyota existed, but yeah she basically bought them as we usually borrow her car when we go play sport....so avoid the sweat on the seats etc. so didnt want to spend too much (though i think she paid about 150 for them, they were sort of the better ones from autobahn, besides the sheep skin ones) so cheaper ones were fine, but i refused to do a bad job, nothing more annoying than seat covers that arent installed properly....

blueksev, it may be easier for us to help you if you tell us what you are trying to achieve with this setup? if you want 13" and tucking guards, and you want to have usable suspension travel, that will NOT be possible unless you shorten your strut. (cut and re weld) and from what i can tell you arent keen on cut/welding? correct me if I'm wrong?

so not really a grinds my gears.. Yesterday girlfriends mum bought some seat covers for her car (08' corolla). me being the nice considerate boyfriend (as well as a corolla fan) put up my hand to put them on...."should take less than 1hr" i tell myself. holy mother of all hellish jobs. what a pain in the butt. 2.5hrs later and i had them looking fairly good. ended up taking both front seats out as it was close to impossible to strap the covers on properly with all the plastic covers on the seats. got away with leaving the the back seats in, but if it was my car i would have had them out as well.... ended up with a few cuts on my hands from trying to get my hands in and around the rear seats. not to mention girlfriends mum would not stop humming this stupid ass song the entire time she was "helping"! haha but in the end, she is cooking dinner for me tonight to say thanks, so can't complain.

unfortunately any mods other than a the CAI (ie a pipe from the front of your car..) aren't going to be cheap compared to the benefit you will get. a new exhaust may cost you $500, and will make the car louder and go maybe 2% faster. and being auto you aren't starting with the best setup anyway. i say service it properly, adjust the timing just before it starts to ping. run it on good fuel and enjoy some happy corollering!

i agree with the comment about penrite trying to push higher viscosity ratings...with their "extra 10" crap. i steer clear of that. just get the normal rated stuff. i remember when i was working at supercheap auto quite a number of yrs ago, they had some promotion on a castrol magnetic oil i think it was (where the stores were competing to try and sell the most...), they pretty much told us to sell it to everyone that wanted oil for their car, regardless of the type of car.... (old or new....) i still sold the correct weighted oil to the customers i dealt with (well as per the small amount of info we had from the oil companies), then got asked why i wasn't selling them this stuff on promotion..... so a ke70dave top tip, don't take what super cheap auto workers say as gospel!

some very good info here, i have the sw20 rears in my struts (struts cut to ~332mm) it all sounds great using a spacer (not cutting to make coilovers), just you can't get the car very low if you use such short stroke shocks in an uncut strut. so you are stuck at high ride height with limited travel. not saying its bad, could work well, just a heads up. also i would be making sure that your springs don't allow the shock to bottom out, as it wont have the travel of the standard shock/spring combo. also what is the reason behind not wanting to shorten the strut? you can always shorten the strut but retain the standard spring hat/seats. don't see many people doing this, not sure why. maybe because coil-over kits are so cheap.

i too have the SW20 inserts in my 86 struts i just got kyb excel g's though, about 220bucks/pair delivered from GSL rally sport.

sorry austin 7 ....not lotus 7!!! (goes and edits first post)

hey guys, has anyone ever put an RB engine in a corolla? and is it legal? HAH! fooled yas all. no this is not a thread about an RB engine in a corolla, this is about "RB corolla", this racecar i saw out at lakeside raceway on saturday, yesterday, 28th may. thought you K motor nuts would find it interesting. all information can be found here: http://www.johnsredcar.net/ with some very good information, as well as a diary of the restoration. essentially its an awesome open wheeler from the 1970s, running a 3k engine on av gas (10:1 compression apparently), twin carbys apparnetly making around 130hp, and it sounded tough... i had a chat to the guy who owned it, he seemed knowledgable, mentioned that it used to be a 2k i think. a few pics i took of it, but there are better ones on that website above. and a few pics of the display he had setup: anyway thought you all might like to see this, it was a good day out at lakeside, plenty of interesting cars going around, even a 1930 austin 7!

I'm not sure but i had mine break a few yrs back, and the car would idle fine but it would not go ANYWHERE. would just die with the slightest load applied. was weird. and i paid under 10bucks for mine..

Create a budget.....right now. Make it realistic with 'fun' money, stick to it and you won't have any dramas! also whats the job? out of curiousity.