ke70dave

work at JB do ya? i used work the car sound section at JB. used to get so many people like that. annoyingly i made alot of my money on commission (Well you got a base rate, but it wasn't fantastic). i have a feeling people used to come into JB hifi and get all the info on stuff from me, then go and buy it online. (i don't blame them if online prices are cheaper!)

ahh take those spacers off! don't believe the masses, guard clearance with suspension travel is what all the REAL cool kids have. not the opposite!

looks great mate. just need to fit those front wheels in! rears look to fit quite nicely.

ok first of all do not buy a 2nd hand slave cylinder or master cylinder. under 50 bucks each for a BRAND NEW one from repco. i cringe when i see people trying to sell them for 70 each 2nd hand. secondly, nothing special about the ae71 hardline. except that it fits nicely on the fire wall. its just a piece of pipe with 2 10mm (?) nuts on the end. but people charge to much for them. if you can't find one for under 10 dollars, go and find an old RWD celica at the wreckers, get its clutch line and bend it into shape. and if you need to shorten it, take it to a hydraulics shop and get them to cut it, and put a new nut on the end (cheap as, fast too) you will need the rubber soft line that goes between the hard line and the slave. if the rubber soft line looks in bad shape, get a new one made, under 50 dollars. DO NOT pay any money for a rubber line that looks stuffed. get it for free, and take it to a hydraulic shop and say "make me a new one of these" the pedal box itself, unfortunately you can't do much except pay the exaggerated prices. unless you are prepared to modify the standard manual one, guy on here did it recenetly, few hours with a welder and he was in business.

not much change from 3000 for a 4age conversion alone. i did it properly but got alot of good bargains, and that's what it cost. i can give an itimised list if you like. take head off, inspect damage. if its not to bad (from inspection of engine shop) put it back on with new gasket, and your all good. if it is stuffed beyond repair, pick up a complete 4k for about 100-150bucks out of the for sale section. swap it over in a weekend, and your back in business. or you can prolly get a head by itself for about 50bucks, just have to make sure you get a good one, so get it checked out at the engine shop before you install it. if you overheated it badly, good chance you warped the head.

alluminium also corrodes better and the plastic end tanks are more susceptible to come appart from alloy core. copper/brass ones are brazed together, also the ones in ke's are (i think) multi row as well, ke70 had 2 rows. you only get 1 row on the new alloy/plastic ones, so that's why they are heaps wider. (as far as i understand)

ding ding ding! old corolla radiators are awesome, in that they are copper (i think copper), at least completely metal. not this alloy, plastic ones that come out on newer cars. unfortunately that means that old corolla radiators cost a fortune compared with new car ones (i got quoted around 280bucks for a brand new ke70 radiator) your best bet i reckon would be to obtain a decentish condition 2nd hand radiator from here or wreckers, then get it overhauled at a radiator shop. can usually get a radiator off here for about 50bucks.

remove all shocks and springs. replace with solid metal 40x40SHS. you want handling like a go-kart yeah? go-karts have no suspension, so neither should you? right??? SLW that looks ridiculous. altezza, teflon body kit, i like that. but why use teflon? use fiberglass, so then you can stich it back together with wire ties, all the cool kids do that. in short, cut springs arent the greatest idea, especially with standard shocks. in order to do it properly, a set of new shocks, and a set of lowered springs, king springs or whatever work good. having you car dragging along the ground, makes you look like a bogan, will attract the cops like nothing else, and will make the car handle like absolute crap.

do what this guy did: http://suprang.com/ but instead of a supra, use a GT4. And instead of a mustang, us a ke10. compare wheel bases and track of the gt4 and the ke10, that will tell you if its possible. but that's the easiest way to get a car to handle as good as a gt4, and to look as good as a ke10.

probably should say at what RPM those figures are at as well. i suspect 7k will make its peak power and torque at lower RPM than a 5k.

best bet is to grab yourself a gregories manual mate. all the torque settings will be in there. actually if i recall correctly, last time i bought a headgasket for a 4k (ACL i think) it came with the torque sequence and settings in the packet. i changed a 4k headgasket with a basic socket set, no weird sizes required.

anything will work if you are willing to do the above. bigger carby prolly wont do too much without a better exhaust and maybe a camshaft though? either way, have a look at a simple downdraft webber perhaps? get it jetted for your engine, make that adaptor plate, and you'll be laughin. you could always get a nikki carby off one of the old mazdas (626 i think had them), make the adaptor plate, be an improvement over the aisin thing. the nikkis came on heaps of cars, so you can prolly find one off something about 1.6L, may not have to change the jets then;)

they need to stop remaking old movies, and make new ones. to me, remaking an old movies is simply milking the idea for all its worth, people will go "because they saw the first one" smart way to do things economically, use the same story, tweak it a little, add some visual effects that everyone will love. make the big bucks.

sure anything is possible. but what you are talking about is completely redesigning the underneath of your car. and redesigning the outside of the car. pretty much redesigning the whole car. i wouldn't advise it.

that is a sweet sweet sound.

i reckon he must be trying to adapt an aftermarket ae86/ke70 item to his corona.

that is a brilliant link. i like the way he writes, makes it easy to read.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine the world is your burito!

i reckon if i had one of those drivecams, i would be able to video tape at least 3 people a day running red lights.

edit: (forgot its ae82, not ae92, no 4afe in ae82) with these corollas getting cheaper, unless you find a cracker of a bargain 4age sx (smashed but in good condition complete car, for under $500), and have the time and ability to completely change everything over (it takes ALOT longer than you think) you are probably better buying a good condition sx, and selling what you have. ae82's are so old now, if you give it a good service, some good cold air intake, you may find you get an extra few hp just from that! edit: further to what altezza sais, in road cars, there is alot of brake bias to the front (like 70%+), so rear brakes aren't used as much. if you have more rear bias, if you slam on the brakes while cornering..you may spin around!

if you are willing to drive to capalaba, have a look at "boss wreckers", which is at tingalpa. thats just near me, they always seem to have heaps of cars. they are also part of some sort of wreckers network (i think most are), so if they don't have the part there is a good chance they can find someone who will. surely there is some wreckers down your way though? just remember there is nothing really specific or special about an ae82 (or any corolla for that matter), smashed ones are abundant, plenty of parts. no need to search out toyota only wreckers. most wreckers with a decent collection should have a number of ae82s to pick at.

does undoing the tensioner give enough slack in the chain to rotate the cam?

the resonator stops.....funnily enough...resonance! as well as removing that annoying "raspy" noise. on my engine (Stocko 4age), i had a single resonator out to a straight through muffler. it was a bit loud for my liking, so i got the brilliant idea to replace the resonator with another muffler. it was quiet...except for 2300,3300rpm, 5200rpm (approx) why is this? RESONANCE. ive not got it changed back, luckily i don't drive it much, but it is the suck. crazy vibrations through the whole car at those specifc RPM's. turns out i had my cam timing wrong, which was why exhaust was too loud, so with the correct cam timing the exhaust is a bit quiet....so ill get that resonator swapped back in one day.... to the op: just go to an exhaust shop, get them to replace your whole system with a 1.75", resonator in the middle, and a "huricane" straight through muffler at the end (simliar to that tri thing altezza is on about). prolly cost 200bucks. it will be welded properly, and you wont ever have to touch your exhaust again;)

to sum up what twinky sais: you can't get something for nothing. any energy you want out of your supercharger, has to come from somewhere. and the more devices you include in your system, the over all efficiency of your system becomes lower, as every device has a efficiency rating.

backfiring out the intake is your ignition timing out. double check the position of the distributor. it will probably start if its +/- 20deg or so, but any more and you will get what you are experiencing. trying rotating the dizzy (where it is now), see if it gets better or worse, maybe you are close...maybe you are a tooth out.