ke70dave

to quote a good friend of mine, Qui-Gon Jinn from the movie star wars - the phantom menace. "Whenever you gamble my friend, eventually you will lose" ---- i am so sick of gambling during sport on TV now. it is becoming everywhere.

An inter cooler for the s15. and not a cheap one.... But yes i should save most of it...

well what a very sad day it was today. after almost 5yrs of ownership (registered it october 2006) the ke70 left my premisis for the last time. it has been sold to someone who by the sounds of it will make it unrecognisable as "ke70daves ke70", which i guess is a good thing for me, i wont ever see it around the streets. far out i never thought i would be so sad letting a material possession go, so many good memories, was the first car i have modified, and it has taught me an incredible amount of stuff. big thanks to rollaclub members for the parts and help over the years of ownership. a few photos from today, as wel as a photo of how it looked when i started.

nice work. with the water overflowing the radiator. thats just the water expanding, all good, just let it dribble out, you wont lose much. fairly soon after that happens, the thermostat will open, and you will see coolant rushing past in your radiator. then after a while it will stop again. This is the thermostat regulating the temperature. (if you wait long enough it will happen again and again) next time wait for this to happen, then just top up the water that spilt out, that way there is also a very good chance you have gotten any air bubbles out of the system (just make sure you are parked up a hill, or flat, just not down a hill) then once you have filled it up to the brim (with the engine still running), put the cap back on and your done. make sure your overflow bottle has some water in it, so when it cools down it draws fluid from that bottle.

my goodness "XD" annoyes me..... as stated....too many questions. if you were going to go 4age, just wait untill you get a new job and do it. unless you spend a bucket load on your 4k, i don't think you can get near the reliable power that a 4age can give you. also i think you don't want to go any bigger than 2" on a 4k, even 1.75 will probably be big enough.

well....where do you usually buy car parts from? popular brand for rebuild stuff are ACL. might also pay to look on ebay as well, plenty of bargains on there. if you've thrown a rod, you are going to need a new block? might be better just to get a whole new 3k and start from scratch.

probably flew into the glass window, and when it slammed into the glass, crapped itself....onto for mentioned window. :P

how about this one: The 3GR-FSE adds D4 direct injection. The 3GR-FSE engine is rated at 256 PS (188 kW; 252 hp) at 6,200 RPM and 32 kg·m (314 N·m; 231 ft·lbf) at 3,600 RPM. Applications: 2004 Toyota Mark X (GRX121) (Japan) 2003 Toyota Crown Royal & Athlete (GRS182/183) (Japan) 2006 Lexus GS 300 (GRS190/195) (Europe & North America) 2008 Toyota Crown Royal (GRS202/203) (Japan) best part it all those cars are RWD already.

they have me sold on the cool website. good info though, 850 is pretty reasonable!

far out the ka20 engine is running 11.7:1 compression ratio! no wonder they can get 220hp out of it. i think you'll be hard pressed to find a 4clr Toyota engine that has equivalent in N/A form. honda engines are pretty damn good at what they do. that 2GRFE looks pretty impressive, but it has 50% more cylinders than the honda!

just buy a set of lowered springs. kings are about $350 for a set. and if you don't want to buy them, just put standard uncut springs in.

about 10deg BTDC. if you think you stuffed up the timing....just turn the dizzy one way and see if it gets better (sounds like it might start), if it doesnt, turn it the other way. did you take the dizzy out? if not it can't be that far out, just need to trial and error. don't be afraid to get someone to turn over the car, and you spin the dizzy until it starts. done that a few times if i didn't have a light handy. just don't hold the starter for more than about 5sec at a time, starters don't like that.

maybe the gas is leaking from your aircon? into your vents? and when you put your foot down the pump works a bit harder, and makes the leak worse? just thinking outside the box here...

probably just the axel bearings. no need to change the whole diff for that. buy new axel bearings (about $50), pull axels out, take them to mechanic, get new bearings pressed on. put axels back in.

if it is a australian delivered ae86, it will have an "S series" differential. not the same as ke70 or ae71. and the center wont bolt in either. the entire ke70 diff will bolt in, but you will need to use an AE71 tail shaft, as your current tail shaft wont be the right length. whats wrong with your diff?

that 93k datsun is a bit....over priced. beautiful car, but i think 10-12k is a bit more reasonable. sure he has spent a fortune, but its just a 240Z. and yeah whats with the wheels, they belong on my mums ae101 corolla.

lots of good stuff here. http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm and you'll need this too. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Circuit_Opening_Relay_Wiring don't hook it up to acc power, do it with circuit opening relay, or when you crash the car your car will fill up with fuel.

the cold setting would just be a ball park figure so you can start the car safely, get it up to temperature, then set them again when its hot. as an engine spends 99% of its life in the hot state, not in the cold state. so long as it doesn't close up when its cold, doesn't really matter what the gap it is, as long as its correct when its hot. which is why the gap is a bit higher for cold temps, then once its hot you set it to the proper value, the cold value just gets you close to the hot value. (that's my understanding anyway....)

the only real way to repair rust is to cut out a big enough chunk of steel to remove all the rusted areas, and weld in a new bit of steel. grind the welds back and you may need to use a very small amount of body filler to get exactly the right shape, then paint it all. any other form of repair (fiberglass, patches, rust converter, paint) is only delaying the inevitable. these methods are ok as long as you are aware that you haven't actually fixed the problem, just slowed it down. (assuming the rusted area isn't a structural area (ie chassis rails), in which case, you need to repair it properly) remember that body filler (bog) is like a sponge to water. so any filler that is exposed to air will just soak up water, and if the filler is on steel it will just rust away the steel. So make sure if you use body filler that you don't use it to fill up holes, as the exposed body filler on the inside will just attract water, and rust your car from the inside out!

cool lookin wheels! very 80's.....ish. unfortunately when it comes to wheel value, its all about the width and offset for the JDM wannabees. if wheels are 14x8 with an offset of -10, it doesn't seem to matter what style of wheel it is. people will pay a fortune for them..... nothing wrong with a 6" wide rim, 185 is plenty wide enough and that will fit on a 6", especially on these old corollas. but yeah the width and offset is what gives them the "value" in the car scene it seems. i say keep them, maybe do something funky with the colour scheme. paint that inner ring a funky colour maybe? like maybe a red ring sort of thing. could look cool!

ke70's have the huge flaw in that there are no LSD's available. ae86 stuff bolts in, but that has the huge flaw of being very expensive..... the easiest solution is to get yourself a compelte diff/LSD from some importer (AE86 item) , prolly cost you 1200-1300bucks. but thats about the cheapest way to get an aftermarket LSD. and then hope that the monkey before you installed the LSD properly and it isnt stuffed. ke70's are a cheap fun car to run, untill you start talking about LSD's. but then again an aftermarket 2-way for a skyline or something is just as expensive. locked diffs sure are bad and all, but for a track car which is designed to be just a fun thrasher (drift days, not trying to shave 0.1sec off your lap time) are probably not a bad option. they do make you understeer, and they do try and resist the car from turning, weird feeling. but for driving on the street, complete and utter pain in the ass. not to mention the legal side of it.

hey mate, what are you on about? maybe use a few more words to explain what you are asking.

"Sent from my iphone" at the end of emails. that is all.

695kg curb weight? that real? far out attach some wings to that thing and fly it!

For front I went 6kg after trying 8. Id go even softer if I did it again..4ish with better shock. Whatever cut standards are feels good in the rear. Can't be more than 2-3kg.