ke70dave

there are plenty of morons who have managed to destroy a ke70 diff with a 4k... we put a yr22 torago diff in my mates ae86, comes with 4x114.3 too, and we just 14" wheels on it (only just fit, funny as 14" wheels over ~12" drums)

I don't see how, bump steer is purely a difference in the radius of rotation of the steering arm and the LCA. -1billion degrees works on v8super cars becuase of the tyre and car setup. my understanding on camber on tyres is the following: a tyre performs maximum lateral grip with some camber angle because of the deformation of the sidewall on cornering that causes the contact patch to sort of rotate around flat onto the road when lage cornering forces are applied. keywords in the above sentence being sidewall and contact patch which are TYRE DEPENDANT. other keywords are the large cornering forces, going 200km/h around turn 2 at queensland raceway, is a little differenent to a quick hills run on your local windy road. not to mention the weight of a v8 super car (which will cause alot more weight transfer to the outer wheels). so comparing a v8 super car (12"+ wide full on slicks with a rock hard sidewall) to your every day tyre (be it a truck or a car)...is somewhat useless! my understanding is that there are a few ways to judge if your camber setting is correct: pick a setting and: -compare the wear marks on the tyre, if the tyre isnt wearing all the way across evenly you need to adjust. too much inner wear, and thats too much camber, too much wear on the outer edges, maybe add a bit more. problem is here you need to drive a bit to get an indication of wear, and if its set wrong...well youve just wasted a bit of your tyre i guess. -do a few hard corners, then measure the temperature of the tyre at say 5 places across the tyre (using one of those infra red things), doesnt matter if the temperture isnt accurate, you are looking for differences, not absolute values. It is ALWAYS a trade off between straight line grip and cornering grip. -1 camber is what is factory on s15 on all 4 corners, and it seems to pull up fine. not to mention I'm flatout locking up these toyo t1rs, my face goes straight through the windscreen before they lock up!!!

no need to stuff around with computers, just wire it once properly and be done with it. but carbys are good to. wreckers, forums, half cuts, you can probably buy most of them on a crate. carbys on a 4age is a great idea, I'm not sure its legal though, given the 4age was EFI, better check that in order to make its 'not a cop magnet'.

why carbys? the mazda BP engine from the mx5 would be fun, 12A or 13B, could run either EFI or carby.

ohhhh someone did a good job at that one. so long as the differential wasnt damaged.....the rest well, doesnt bother me too much:P

only just. matt/satin colours only work if the body is absolutely perfect. and the car is washed every 2nd day. any dirt or imperfections on/in the body immediately make the paint job look incredibly tacky...

that has a really agressive front end on it. i like it! sort of reminds me of a series 2 s14 silvia, the angry eyes one.

it may work, but it certainly wont work well.

my ke70 cable went straight into the t50. pulled it out of the k40, swapped to the t50, put cable straight into t50. and with 195/50/r15 tyres and a 3.9 diff ratio, it was nice and accurate too! (+/-2km according to GPS)

its the same in the piping industry. we still use the original imperial systems, we have even added metric tags to the imperial sizes. eg: a DN100 pipe, is a common size, that has an overall diameter of 114.3mm (4"). not 100mm OD as you would expect. a DN15...is 21.3mm OD...go figure. who knows why it is, i guess there was SOOO much crap built when imperial was the norm, that is still running (eg both refineries in brisbane are built in the 60's) changing everything to metric is just not an option. even if you started by saying "right, any new stuff will be metric", how do you join to the old stuff? then you will need twice as many spare parts (both metric and imperial) while we wait for everything imperial to be decommissioned... not to mention that anyone that produces anything for these industries (that is currently in imperial) would need to modify their machinery etc, sounds like its just been put into the "too hard basket"

the back of your gauge cluster.

science sais there is ALWAYS pressure drop :( no free lunches in science. love the car mate, thats a biiiiggg hair dryer you have there.

its not even registered?

have you guys seen 'The IT Crowd' episode about 'Friend face'? brilliant episode, basically a huge payout on facebook and the whole social media phenomena actually, every episode of 'The IT Crowd' is brilliant... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rNgCnY1lPg .

for what its worth i never saw more than 83-85 degrees on my 4k, unless i let it idle for an extended period of time. even charging up a mountain laboring the hell out of the poor engine, it didn't really get much hotter, maybe up to 87-90. has anyone questioned the temp gauge? and where are you taking these readings from?

sweet mother of cheap tyres. why did i just spend $820 on a set of T1r's. i wonder how they ship tyres? 1 tyre per box?

carpet straight onto the body would be horrible... not only from a wear and tear point of view, but it woudlnt be as soft under you feet, and you will be able to see more of the ridges. and the carpet will move around. for the extra 20bucks and bit of effort i would get it, your getting brand new carpet, you might as well do the job properly. and just don't put it up around your pedals, problem solved. the underlay will also act as an insulation, your exhaust will heat up the passenger side footwell, no one likes their feet cooked.

HUH!!!dirty dirty nissan....... i enjoyed the read, a few yrs of history there! i intend on getting involved with the sprints at QR/lakeside in my dirty nissan, just sucks how seem to be on week days. ive read about this sydneykid bilstein kit, but from what i can gather he isn't around anymore or something. must go a alot better with this than the cuscos 8/6kg or whatever they were.

what kind of answer are you expecting? a manifold designed for an engine, wont fit easily onto another engine. cutting, welding, probably adding more material is required. might as well make one from scratch. its like saying "will an ipod charger fit a nokia phone with some work". yep it will.

in terms of what paint to buy, either go have a chat to an old guy at a paint and panel shop, or maybe there is a good paint shop near you. there are certain types of paint that don't mix well, not sure if factory paint is 2-pack? so you may not be able to use either enamel or acrylic. or certain brands may be better for touching up factory stuff... from my somewhat limited experience with painting cars, the painting part (spray gun), is the easy part. just mix thinners to what it sais on the tin. A few goes on an old guard, and we had paint coming out of the gun quite nicely. runs are easy to avoid, just be careful and keep the coats light. bogging and sanding though.....what a pain in the ass. spray booth = garage with plastic sheets draped everywhere. Once the paint is airborne its pretty much dry, so you are just catching dust, not wet paint. i did a metalic blue when i did it, came up ok, we did something funky withe the paint though...seemed overly flecky (or maybe the metalic bits were too big?)...or maybe thats how its supposed to be.....but the paint it self was awesome. next time i might stick to a non metallic standard colour. i suspect it may be much easier to get a good finish. pending how much you actually have to do, it may be much cheaper and easier to just get it done by a shop. strip it yourself and let the shop sort out the right colour code. it is VERY difficult to get the colour right. my 1999 car, i got the bonnet painted to the color code, and its slightly different to the rest of the car (if you look real close in the right light), i guess that's 10yrs of sun there.

all depends on the condition of the head when you take it off. if you pull it off and find its all in good condition, an acid dip, a quick skim 500 should cover it. if you need a few new valves, more than a skim, if there is any corrosion, the price may blow out.

yeah i guess that was what i was sort of referring too, the rules and regs of the powers at be, dictating designs.

haha now thats lowballing! i think this is one of those, 'suck it up' scenarios. i never knew that about the SU's needing to be on an angle in order to make the fuel bowl vertical. makes sense though.

I'm not sure i buy this... maybe the the midst of a massive traffic jam they put out "cleaner" air than they take it, but its still air filled with chemicals, just chemicals considered not as harmful as other chemicals. but i refuse to believe that a car traveling through the country side isn't degrading the air it pumps through its engine! its almost like manufacture are going a bit backwards with the engine/car design. so the latest cars are able to get around on 4L/100, according the wiki, that civic is achieving ~5.9L/100....back in 1975. so they made the cars twice as heavy, and make the engines twice as economical, you are back to where you started in terms of economy:P

A mate of mine sent me this link today, he is looking at buying a first generation honda. Thought i would share it here. The honda CVCC engine, certainly no power house, debut in 1975, and using quite an interesting way of reducing emissions. have a good read of this, veerry interesting. http://www.1stgencivic.com/world/c1zr/m1/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12770 There is a concept around known as the "homogeneous charge combustion igntion" (HCCI), which is basically a cross between a compression ignition engine (diesel) and a spark ignition engine (petrol). in which the fuel air mixture is pre mixed (like a petrol), but then is ignited via compression (like a diesel) works ok in theory, not so good in practice (without adding complex support systems, but an interesting idea as well. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homogeneous_charge_compression_ignition both concepts aiming to burn a very lean mixture, and keeping temperatures down to reduce the N0x's. in an attempt to reduce over all emissiosn. although the HCCI engine is still in development, it seems that this honda engine was quite a good attempt at this, and quite ahead of its time with the CVCC in terms of emissions! it would be interesting to compare this engine, with the emissions of popular engines of today, ie ~36yrs later. discuss....