ke70dave

i don't see what is wrong with not spoon feeding people. if corollas are a true hobby and passion for a nooby, hours and hours of research should be enjoyable. i dare say everything to do with the common (and even not so common) modifications has been documented a billion times, weather it be build threads, tech articles or even previous tech questions. before i even bought my ke70 i had spent months crawling through the net and had pretty much the whole thing planned out, even bought a few 4age conversion bits before buying the car as they came up cheap. it helped i was a poor uni student working 1 day a week and a $500 ke70 was a HUGE purchase at the time...so i had plenty of time to ponder:P the idea is good though, having all the info in one spot, but i think its much better to spend hours diving through build threads, as you lean alot more than just reading a list of parts required. not to mention build threads usually have heaps of pics, so you get a feel for what you will be doing. just my 0.2C anyway.

what does the "rear setup" consist of? if that front stuff doesnt come with brakes i think its a bit on the rich side. costs for front end usually go something like this.... -bar struts ($200 or so, if you are lucky cheaper) -pair of shocks (B6 bilstein are about $600, TRD brand new are about the same i think) -coilover kit ($300 from otomoto including spring rate of your choice) -calipers maybe $150 2nd hand (+$200 to get them over hauled) -brand new discs ($250, don't use 2nd hand ones) -RCAs ($100, 2nd hand) -T3 camber tops are about $250 i think? but yeah they wont fit your car, need to modify. -new wheel bearings ($50?) -cost to get the welding done (maybe free, maybe few hundred bucks, depending on your contacts) so compare those prices to the price you got.

brilliant job on the car mate, love it!

the J series of motors are quite decent though. ive been reading up on them alot lately (in my quest to buy a chaser, anyone wanna buy a s15?). The later model 1j, single turbo, vvti (continuously variable, not on/off like many), and it being over square gives it that rev happy characteristic. not to mention the sound, jeez the J engines sound good. 1uz is 87.5 mm and stroke of 82.5 mm, so over square as well. giving it the same rev happy characteristic. but the 1uz is a 4L, and the J is only a 2.5 (or 3L for the 2j). can't realllly compare them. ive just read up on ferrari donks...yeah whole other leage.

those TRD shocks are supposed to be pretty good. 6kg might be a bit stiff, i had 6kg in my ke70, was pretty good, just a bit stiff for daily driving, certainly bearable though. i would probably go 5 or 4.5 next time, and spend up bigger on the shocks. how much for all of that? so it doesnt include actual struts?

which ECU are you using twinky? edit. there are calculators for these kinds of things, eg http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/calcinjpulse.html but you will need to know the vaccume present, the fuel pressure, and all those other parameters. the fuel pressure is very important, as that governs everything. what are you using in terms of a fuel pressure regulator? at first glance 290cc injector for each cylidner seems quite large ona 1.3L, so you MAY have trouble getting a good idle anyway. 2nd edit. http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1615&st=0&sk=t&sd=a this may be helpful, the spreadsheet looks good.

you arent the first person to have problems with your 4age idle. have a google and you will find heaps of threads just like this. in general, the only way an engine will run at a higher RPM is 2 ways: -Ingition timing is wrong, if you advance the timing it will idle higher -air is getting into the engine when you don't want it to. with my 4age, i got rid of all the water lines and plugged up everything around the throttle body, and set the idle with the throttle body. with this method it always idels at what you set it at (so no idle up on cold start). you are going to need to understand how all the systems on your engine work before you try and fix it! research research research!

you are lucky!! back in the early 80s, when toyota was desiging the corona. they thought...hmmm we had better give nissan a call and find out what popular turbo engine they will start making, you never know someone in 2011 might want to put a late 80's nissan engine in this corona. so we had better make it bolt in! ------ in case you have missed my sarcasm, custom engine and gearbox mounts will be required. in fact pretty much everything to do with waht you are talking about (SR into your corona) will have to be custom made. a short list- -engine mounts -gearbox mounts -wiring -intercooler piping -tailshaft -bigger radiator (and associated water stuffs) -probably a bigger diff (shortened and modified to fit your car) -custom brake lines for formentioned diff -bigger fuel system (most likely a surge tank setup, pending the design of the 22re fuel system) starting to get the idea? here is a bit of encouragement. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/engine-driveline-conversions/30821-1982-corona-sr20-%3D-0-a.html

it is very......brown. who remembers 'rallisport challenge' on one of the old consoles? and the 240turbo was the best car, as it was virtually indestructable. only tiny photo i can find of it:

yeah but just because they havent blown, doesnt mean they are good quality shocks.

yeah definately pointless.

yeah but for $750 brand new i suspect the quality of the shock is questionable. same with any coilover of that price. depends how much money you want to fork out. A J P S can make you a nice pair of coilvoers using bilstein B6 shocks for around $1500, i think that includes camber tops? else if you can find a pair of ae86 struts, you can convert them into coilvoers yourself, choose what shock and spring you want (heaps to choose from). be aware that building a front end for ae86 (or any car) from ground up using new and/or refurbished parts is VERY expensive. if you can try and find someone parting out their car i would try and buy it all in one go to save a bit of cash. also you may be able to find some bargains on yahoo auctions. http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b124837092 unfortunately i can't seem to get it to language convert....but even if you got something like that for $500 thats not bad.

no its too hot. bring back winter, i hate summer. i dug out my pedestool fan last night....not even the end of september! what makes me happy though, is ice cold AC in the car:D

unlucky with the defect, though most were avoidable:P the car itself looks great though. love the chome bars with the square lights. considered the idea of painting the light surrounds satin black? seen it done before. looks quite cool.

ah that is annoying. Maybe try and find an exchange item then. or chuck up a WTB and get another one to get it going. where are you located? if brisi i can recommend logan priest in wynnum, he does nice and fast service, and has had alternators on the shelf ready to go for the last 2 cars ive taken down there.

looks like a pretty good buy t18drifts. i love the cooler setup, that is fantastic. has backyard mechanic written all over it. its one step up from a J pipe arrangement. admitedly a small step.... i was half expecting a hole in the bonnet after seeing the engine bay pic!

the standard 4age regulator is inside the alternator as far as i remember. i would take the alternator off, and drop it off at your local auto electrician. he will do all the testing, probably change all the bushes in it, fix the regulator issue, and you will be left with a brand new alternator! and you will never have to worry about it again. alternators are fairly gineric, they just differ in size and mounting. so the auto elecy will have stacks of available parts. he may even have an alternator available for swap over, given how popular corollas are.

with those badly rusted areas, especailly around the boot lock there, its probably easier to just go and cut that peice out of another ke70 and weld it in.

excuse my ignorance, what are "flappers"?

in regards to the engine on a lean, i assume you have considered oil draining from the head? how does the engine sit in factory applications? same sort of lean? i like the mounts though, nice bit of work there.

bastards....at least its somewhat easily fixable, i assume the whole interiour will smell of smoke for a while though!

hehe Mariah careh has to have one of the best singing voices though. her first album, from 1990...her voice on that album is incredible! and she was only 20yrs old when she released that album. compare her voice to what is popular on the radio these days (commercial stuff anayway) and she was miles ahead! i also find that her music is recorded well, and most importanly MIXED well. chuck on a decent pair of headphones, and its very high quality music! that first album is the best though, i don't care for any of the ones that came after that:P

they must have updated these, as i don't recall seeing my car before. even so they are at least 1yr old, as i havent lived there for about 9months now.

nah my dad had one of these. Column shift I believe. goes alright actually. from memory it went better than the ke70! Prolly more friendly gear ratios.

if you are on your p's you can't do ANY engine conversion. you are stuck with the K motor your car came with.