ke70dave

wow! love it. i can see you know what you are doing. some very nice work there. mmmm love that EFI setup.

yeah but the best part about the injector servicing is when they put it on their little machine and run the cleaner through them for 25mins. the nasty stuff....that i don't think you want on your hands. they also check the flow to make sure they are all flowing the same amount. injector seals are a good idea as well, but they will give you these when you get them serviced by an injector guy. and for ~$120 for 4 injectors, proper injector cleaning is well worth it.

spin the bulb around, it will fit.

i think we could pretty much go on forever and quote lines from that movie. it really is epic. ever watch the sequal to it? well sorta sequal.....they used simliar footage, and added new footage. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0423505/ was horrible.

Made with bits of real panther, so you know its good.

knowing I'm not going to work tomorrow, or monday. going to byron bay for the weekend tonight. sleepin in on friday, saturday, sunday and monday morning. 2.5hrs work to go ;) You stay classy sandiego.

hey mate welcome to rollaclub. 4age, 4k turbo, 1jz, 2jz, 7mgte...are all completely different conversions. I suggest a bit of reading on each one. but for your J engines, http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/31523-1jz-ke55/ ke55 is pretty much same as a 35 in the engine bay.

less creating threads more workin on the car! getting someone else to do it will be minimum $110/hour. so $1000 gets you 1 day and 1 hr. i highly doubt it could be done in less than about 4 or 5 days. considering its alot of custom stuff. you do the math. seems like alot of cash just to get to a show.

the word "povety" should NEVER be used to describe Australia.

ah k, yeah i figure that the unequal design is inefficient for turbo and n/a. the boxer rumble is cool and all, but its not cool cause its good, its a flaw in the exhaust design! so much opposing oppinions for equal length extractors, weather they are worth it etc, in theory they should be. anyway, i performed my first mod last night! A DAB+ digital radio CD player. got me a JVC, KD DB58. seems to be one of the only CD players out there offering DAB+ for a reasonable price. about $290 delivered off ebay. (390 in Jb hifi....) and it came with a funky antenna, a good discussion topic for when people get in the car and say "what the crap is that?" digital radio is pretty cool, heaps of stations out there that are music only, no adverts. though ive not noticed any monumental change in sound quality....... next mod will be building a subwoofer box that takes up minimal space in the boot. become a real WRX owner with my OONTS OONTS OONTS stereo.

thus there are plenty of external pumps out there making horrible noises from cavitation, and trying to do a job that they arent designed to do. not saying it wont work, but its certainly not ideal. especially if there are other dramas present (low voltage especially) T18drifts if you are indeed just using a single external high pressure pump, you need to get it as low as possible to give it the best hope in working properly (not in the boot, lower). under car, inline with the bottom of the tank, so it is not trying to suck fuel up hill. if you get it nice and low you can take advantage of the sifening present in the system, which should help your pump out. but it will still probably cavitate and carry on. little fact with a bit of tech thrown in, the VL pump that everyone loves to use (ie just a bosch external), also uses an intank lift pump, so the high pressure pump actually sees positive pressure at the pump inlet. this keeps the pump happy. but knowone seems to use the lift pump. i did on my ke70, and the pump was completely silent. where as without it, it was noisy as. also make sure you have a nice chunky wire going to the positive terminal of the pump ( i used 2 x 1.5mm^2 wire, which is quite chunky wire to begin with). and also make sure that the negative terminal on the pump goes directly to the chassis, don't run the negative back to the battery, just go directly to chassis. once you have this, get the pump running and get a multi meter and measure across the two terminals of the pump, you should see ~12-13V when the car is running (with a working alternator), any less and you have voltage drop. let us know how you go eh.

details on pump size, type, location. it should be close to silent, if only a small high pitch sound. if its an external pump, they arent designed to suck.

The force or tension in the bolt/stud etc is the same throughout the bolt/stud, and is also the same force that the thread must withstand. since its all joined together. i think bolt stretch is the big thing with ARP head bolts, there is some good information on their website, fairly vague. but gives you a good idea. http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_design.shtml if you click on "technical" there is some more pages.

send AJPS an email, or give them a call. The owner is very abliging to customers, and he can probably help you out if you want something cheaper.

getting someone at queensland transport that knows what they are doing. rego transfer, boat license registration, and a new license all within about 5mins.

red: powersteer auto fluid: also red (usually) green: coolant clear: water yellowy: brake fluid. surely you noticed more about this fluid than it was just "fluid"? To be honest i wouldnt put any more money into that car than to keep it going, and keep it in RWC condition. If its truly a daily, treat it as a daily, don't touch it and keep it reliable. if you did all the mods that orange LJ has suggested, you would have spent enough cash to buy your car twice! pretty good buy for $1300 registered though

A good shop, is going to employ good employees. Good employees don't like dodging the tax system. Thus they wont do "cashies"..... http://www.brisbanetuning.com.au/dyno_tuning.html this place sounds alright. id imagine a single webber on a k motor would be quite easy to tune for a pro, but you will be paying for dyno time and the pro's time. and pro's charge accordingly....probably around $120/hr....

hehe thanks kickn yeah dunno about equal length, sounds like a good idea in theory, but i woudlnt want to have to change much to make it work....reliability is the key here. they (a whiteline artical ive read) reckon that a rear sway bar does wonders to the handling of this thing. so ill keep my eye out for one of those. http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_Rex_on_rails_1.pdf is the article. it has 5 of 6 pages, you just change the URL from "AS_Rex_on_rails_1" to "AS_Rex_on_rails_2" "AS_Rex_on_rails_3" etc

hey trev, thanks for the tips. yeah I'm aware of the fragile gearboxes, i guess thats to be expected in any AWD car. i still havent quite got used to the clutch and gearbox yet, i think its going to take a while.... as for the upper cylinder cleaner stuff, i assume its had it done, it doesnt specifically say in the book though. i might grab a can or two though, ive used it before and its awesome stuff. you sure about the equal length header thing for turbo? clicky clicky a quick ebay search found this, though I'm not sure how it goes with the sump...seems i might have to swap that for a 2.5L model... oh and i don't have that brant thing, which i was happy about, nothing but trouble i hear.

heheh yeah pretty rare. and yeah i know these cars have the stereotypes attached to them, 20" wheels, stupid exhausts, car parks. but its a damn nice car, interior build quality is so much higher than the s15. i personally am not a fan of the boxer burble sound, i think a set of equal lenth headers is in order. id love a 2 door, but they are about twice the price. as for comparing speed, i think its a bit faster than the stock s15. awd is alot different to judge speed on, sooo much grip, you never spin the wheels at all, as opposed to the s15 where you struggled keep it straight.....

s15 sold! it needed a bit of work (VCT rattle...) and i got a bit sick of the 2 door thing. and it wasnt the straightest car in the world..

Well folks here is the new toy. the s15 was fun, but highly impractical. ever since watching the WRC ive always been a fan of the classic shape suparu impreza wrx, unfortunately due to its popularity it has become very difficult to find an unmolestered one....but i found one. Bought brand new in august 2000, buy a now 61yr old owner from beechmont qld, this example has every service done every 5000 by subaru in gold coast. only for sale as they wanted to get a bigger car to transport the grand children around! and i bought it from her, and confirmed by the REVS check, this is a single owner car! (now 2...) this is exactly how it came out of the factory, has not been touched. even the sheep skin seat covers were purchased from subaru at the time of purchased. factory stereo, including a CD player thing that you need to tune the radio into to make it work. it drives like a brand new car, i doubt it has been driven over 4000rpm its whole life. it does understeer on the limit as expected, but with the yoko C driver tyres that limit is quite far....its certainly fun to drive. plans: drive it like it is, put in a CD/mp3/usb player (bought some JVC thing off ebay, has changable lights, so i can make it blend in with the standard green dash lights! ) anyway a few pics. hope you like.

define "needed new brakes". not much too brakes, discs/pads..drums/shoes and fluid and mastercylinder. that % thing is crap. i didnt even know the % thing existed untill i actually watched my s15 get a RWC, the little device they use to measure the % is pathetic. the guy explained to me that the results are totally not repeatable.

you are right there.... i tend to do half way in between. i budget how much I'm gonna spend for the week, and transfer all of the other money out into the savings account. then if i happen to need more, transfer some back.

not entirely sure what your asking mate. which car we talkin about here? and when you say 'metal brake lines' what are you refering to? the hard lines that run around the engine bay? 'titanium kevlar pads'?? you serios? got a link. sound space age.