ke70dave

yep. there are talks that if you get a fixed length one, sometimes it wont fit. i got a ae86 one that had a little adjustment in the length, boltd it on no dramas. don't pay more than 100 dollars for one. its just a bar and some stamped out round things.

nope. not even with s13 srtut tops, its too long.

no never been done. oh wait, i googled it. first google result for "1uz mx73" http://v-eight.com/tech_forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1302&p=11117 and in that thread is videos! alternatievly, youtube! http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1uz+mx73&aq=f lots of videos. seems like a fairly easy conversion, but its still a conversion, so think custom.

i think you will struggle to find a decent short stroke shock for the front of a ke70, need to look into a strut conversion. rear, the KYB part number that i used was 343113, some sort of mid 90's commondore wagon shock (i belive it was the lowered version as well, not standard). worked very well with lowered springs at a reasonable height (jsut legal). there is a thread on ae86dc that compares alot of shocks, few yrs old so might have to google search it. or it might have dissappeard.....

hey dude, yeah pretty much the ae86 front end is exactly the same as ke70 front end, just with a few (but important) variations in dimensions. yeah the strut (that the shock sits in) has the stub axel attached at the bottom, and your hub sits on this. also the caliper brackets bolt to this. that ebay link looks a little dodgy, looks like he is just offering his services to build coilvoers for any of those cars, those coilvoers in the pic look like ae92 possibly, def not ae86. that photo of the red shock/spring coilover thing that altezza posted, thats what you want to achieve. that has an extra bit on it, that bracket that goes from the tube to the stub axel, dunno how much good that would do, but hey might as well weld it on if you got spare steel. ae86 coilovers looks pretty much like a standard strut, with the spring seat cut off, and the thread thing welded on the outside...cuase that is what they generally are! sleeves are the way to go (if you feel you absoluately need height adjustment), if you can weld, or just find someone who is selling a pair of them, with say stuffed shocks (i got mine like this for $250!) bought some new shocks, and were good as new. any more Q's don't hesitate to ask!

I have a sneaking suspicion that if you register it as a 2 seater, they will make you remove the rear seats? or maybe just the rear seat belts. looks good though, agreed the rear looks like a rollacoaster... "plase allow bar to come down to lap, and ensure it is tight....and hang on"

Thats what we like to hear :wink: looks like a good start, getting stuck into that rust will make life easier in the future. I'm not that much of a fan of the mirrors though. might work.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49714-ae86-or-s13/ have a read through this, basically my oppinino of the whole thing. as for finding parts, but up some Wanted to buys on all the forums you visit, someone will have something.

yeah no LSD available for the ke70, none, zip, nada. pending on your funds, ability, future plans, there are a few options of diff. the "t series" diff from a jap spec ae86 or T18, will bolt into your ke70 (using the correct tailshaft) and there are many aftermarket LSD's available. you may have a bit of difficulty fitting the T series diff behind a K motor though in terms of which tailshaft, have a research on that one, may not be possible without a custom made tailshaft. (~$400) with the T series diff they have bigger axels than the borgy diffs in the k series, and bigger brake drums, but everything bolts up to it. if you plan on going turbo at some stage, you should look into the R31 differential, you will need to have it modified to fit your car (shortened and mounts welded on, custom tailshaft), but there is an aftermarket lsd available for them (through KAAZ). muuuch bigger diff than the stocko or T series. but yeah considerable more money to make it happen...

far out. when i had mine for sale the first sign of interest came about 2months after i put it up for sale....

one must ask where you have tried? as pretty much any parts shop will be able to supply rebuild parts. repco, supercheap auto, bursons, autobahn...take your pick.

just for reference bigport cams are 240 not 250 as mentioned above. so 264 is a considerable change from factory. http://www.billzilla.org/4agstock.htm id avoid ebay engine parts, go to your local machine shop and get them to set you up with everythign you need. rings, pistons, block hone etc. looks like a fun little car though.

The lady at work bringing excess cupcakes from her daughters bday party to work today. oh i love cupcakes, but i especially love free cupcakes.

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT: DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE) DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006) DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4 DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L) DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1 (pre 2006) ($4/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ) DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ) DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ) DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING 660 ($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ) DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ) DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- QUADRIGA/PROSPEED GS610 ($14.99/16 OZ) DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ) DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335 ($45.00/1.0L 33.8 OZ) wet boiling point is fairly important as well, apparently that temperature is measured when there is 3.7% water in the system. so id go with a fluid that suits your brake system, and is as close to the bottom of that list as possible. the prices are most likely out dated, was a pretty old post...but i coudlnt be bothered reseaching each fluid and getting updated specs....

2.5L??? man a 4k will take about 6 hours to use 2.5L of fuel, far to big! sell that, buy a 600ML one. ah well all the best with your new adventure eh.

so you are selling it not running? id get it running in EFI, could ask a bit more i reckon. nice car though, done a good job so far. (cept the wheels don't fit:P) as for surge tank, mount it under the car. have a look at my old build thread, and i think i did a tech article on ae86dc for it as well. fits real nice.

CSX with a 4ac? I thought anything with 'SX' had the 4age? not a CS? though I'm no ae82 expert... looks alright though! how chunky is that steering wheel!! love the grid on the dash cluster, looks so cool. great little car for a learner driver. The 4ac's go alright for what they are.

also make sure that the engine mounts arent sitting on a funny angle. if you need to bend the rubber to get the bolts to line up, you will quickly end up with a snapped engine mount. you want the engine mount rubbers to be sitting perfectly parellel, with only compression forces through the rubber. keen for pics though!

don't buy a new mastercylinder.....just clean yours!

yeah its a bit sad when parts + postage from the other side of the world, is cheaper than buying locally the same thing. But i guess for your average joe, who isnt into buying stuff online, or isnt even into cars (just driving them), its a rip off through the dealerships. this particular volvo is a big 4wd of some description, and apparnetly the standard tyres only last 30,000km!!! one of these softroader things i suspect with 'road tyres' on large mag wheels that just can't handle the weight of the thing for very long.

i just over heard someone here discussing their 2004 volvo. parts are INCREDIBLE through the dealers. $1500 for a new fuel pump....$3000 for some electronics box that controls the diff. as much as agree that the taxes and what not are rediculous on the imported cars, I'm still not sure i would buy anything other than japanese. the price on european stuff is just soo high in aus, not just the purchase price, but yeah parts and what not. fix that too, and yeah id consider a euro car.

whast the big deal? are you complaining that rollaclub doensnt delete useless posts? in my experience i reckon that rollaclub is one of the more stricter moderated forums around. if you want something deleted you can always just PM a moderator and get it deleted.

unlucky with the headgasket!!! damn looks like fun though.

Your 'mechanic' is an idiot.

just go to any exhaust shop mate. what you are asking is nothing special, if an exhaust shop can't do it, they shoudlnt be an exhaust shop. this one sounds good. Fyshwick Exhaust Centre All Work Guaranteed Mufflers & Exhaust Systems - Fyshwick, ACT 2/ 129 Newcastle St, Fyshwick ACT 2609, Australia Phone number(02) 6239 3538