ke70dave

everything i had read suggests that the auto jzx100's had open rear diff, where as the manual ones have the torsen LSD. factory that is. not hard to change.

also note. if the engine has aftermarket cam shafts with large overlap, the static compression will go down.

rianwest knows his stuff! looks like this car is a bit of a disaster atm.. maybe focus on one thing and get it sorted before moving onto the next! el-o-el at putting oil in your brake system. i suggest only using brake fluid to flush, nothign else. and i suggest doing it fast, as leaving brake systems 'dry' will only attract rust. buy like 3 bottles of your chosen fluid, and just keep on pumping it through untill its clear of any crap. also shock absorbers have more effect on ride quality than springs. maybe you have soft shocks, and blooody stiff shocks. do you know what shocks you have? edit: cool dog!

140psi seems a bit low. i think the 4age manual specifies around the 170-180 mark for bigports and over 200 for smallports? obatin a copy of the 4age manual and check these figures. and agreed you want the compression on each cylinder. Low compression across all cylinders just means the engine is tired, but if one is alot lower than the rest it indicates a more localised problem, bad valve or headgasket failure. also alot of compression guages are cheap and crap, so wont offer accurate or even repeatable results, so take any results obtained by someone else with unknown instruments.....with a grain of salt.

i was VERY keen to buy a chaser a few months ago. but a manual one is just soooooo much more expensive than an auto one. and even conversions would cost around 3000-4000 by the time you did it completely. (auto has no LSD either) give it a few yrs and i might get one, pretty sweet car, gotta love that J motor.

got a google map of your property? is it as big as that property in evans thread about destroying cars?

CEL-check engine light IWG-internal waste gate EWG-external wastegate TBE-turbo back exhaust CBE-cat back exhaust. WHY DO WE NEED THESE IN ACRONYMS. oh yeah, i have a 6 page A3 document with all the acronyms used in the BP refinery (where i work). i spend alot of my time CTRL + F'ing in that pdf....

thr is knw rsn that ne 1 shld nt b abl 2 typ out ful wrds whn they hve a ful QUERTY kybrd n frnt of them. i dnt care if u r on a phone, it has a ful kyrbrd as wel. lzy bugrs. (short word for 'phone'? 'phn'?)

haha i have seen a few useless posts in the forsale section from you over the years evan:P --- i am sick to death of uncessessary acronyms. browsing through the subaru forums...see if you can figure these ones out. CEL IWG EWG TBE CBE

If you take what you have somewhere, they wont go searching out for the parts you need from a wreckers. unless they knowledgable in early corollas (highly unlikely), they will just start making custom stuff to make it work, cross members, tailshaft, manifolds etc. it will turn into a VERY expensive excercise. a 4age into a ke70 can be a bolt in conversion, just find all the right parts and away you go.

what was the problem with the engine/fuel system in the end?

coilovers in the back don't really work, since standard the spring and shock are separate. and you really shouldnt be putting the weight of the car onto the poor little upper shock mounts. just buy a matched pair of springs and shocks for the rear. AE86 brakes will definately not fit on ke70 struts. the golden rule with the front end of a ke70, if you intend on doing any sort of major upgrade, throw the entire struts including springs, brakes, shocks....into the bin.

Carbs- twin SUs, Weber d'draught or DCOE sidedraught. Finding manifolds is the problem. mostly 2nd hand, keep an eye on ebay, classifieds on here, other forums etc. Cam- plenty of people cut cams for them. crow cams, wade cams, crane cams (i googled 'cams australia'), crow and wade seem popular. Exhaust- You can still buy new extractors. exhaust shop, or look for 2nd hand items on ebay, classifieds on here etc. then go to exhaust shop for the rest. Head skim to raise compression. take head off, drop off at machinist, pick up few days laterm, bolt back on. search for the tech article "how to build a tough k motor" lots of good stuff in there! ..and if you do city driving grab a diff from an auto, they are lower geared so accelerate faster. this is a good idea too.

late braking and brake fade while delivering pizza! man thats commitment.

hey mate, its called a 'coilover sleeve kit' http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/1851-guide-coilover-conversion.html a bit of a guide there. and there is a photo or two in here http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/30543-ke35-coupe-sr20det/page__st__30

if you are going to build that jaycar kit...just buy a MS1 megasquirt. i think they are only about 250us now. come with a map sensor (3bar?). just need to read a fair bit about how to set it all up. but hey thats why its a hobby? then you get to control the fuel as well in one unit. Btw what are you controlling the fuel with now? edit: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb22-kit-black-case-p-128.html only 153usd! just have to check if that includes your map sensor...if not they are fairly cheap.

sorry only just saw this... i stayed in a HUUUGGEE holiday house on the hill at byron, there was 10 of us. 3 floors, pool, pool table, about 6 bedrooms. could see the ocean and the lighthouse. not far off 5 star!

got this thing on carsales mate? it will sell fast on there. also might pay to fix up a few things on that list if your having trouble selling.

mmm yeah thats cool.

forget the hiflow catalytic converter. It will make NO difference. If the front discs arent stuffed, just get them machined and put the bendix pads on. I think slotted discs are a waste of money if your current ones don't need to be replaced. sure if the fronts need replacing, an extra 50bucks on slotted is prolly worth it. but buying new discs purley to go from flat to slotted...yeah waste of cash. remember cars are for driving, not sitting in a workshop costing you $1000's or on jackstands in your garage :wink:

people who come to work sick. cough, sniff, sneeze, splutter, snort all day a few meters away and potentially making me sick at the same time. GO HOME!!!!!!!!!!!

the onyl difference between ke70 and ae86 struts is the ae86 struts are a little bigger in diameter, and accept a larger range of shock absorbers. have a google on how to put ae86 stuff in a ke70, you arent a pioneer;) as far as i know, there are no performance orientated shock absorbers around that fit into a ke70 shock tube. oh and the brakes are different, ae86 brakes are bigger, and there are alot of ae86 brake upgrades around that bolt onto the standard ae86 strut. my suggestion is seriously research your options before buying any "coilovers". As alot of off the shelf products are very expensive and contain garbage shocks. And will end up bouncing you off the road. you want to be looking into subjects such as short stroke, captive springs, mono vs multi shock tubes, lots to consider!

to pay someone to do a decent matte spray job on a ~30yr old car, its going to cost upwards of $3k.... the hrs of preparation required to ensure that there are no imperfections shown through the matt paint....is alot. edit: this looks the goods. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3Nq7CKYaRdQ/TNCTBVkPDNI/AAAAAAAAYUE/i52GiJWQSxg/s1600/Mercedes-Benz+SL65+AMG+matte+grey-4.jpg

yep not the greatest idea, will just fill up your thread with stuff not about your car! if you are intersted in selling stuff, please put it in its own forsale thread. that is a mean looking transmission tunnel, looks really nicely made.

nah that woudlnt hold the battleship, wouldnt hold a tinny! they really do weight not very much. complete with a k40 gearbox and all ancilaries, me and my mate lifted one onto the back of a ute, and i am very weak.... i reckon the whole lot would have been under 100kg. so without gearbox, 70kg?