ke70dave

right so, lets play a fun game, called "what car is this" apologies for the crap photo, that makes it even more fun, its a zoom in on photo i snapped while at the traffic lights.... i don't think itst toyota, has no badges on it that i can see. it drives around my suburb a bit, and lives here. its a 2 door, with quad headlights simliar to the TA22 celicas, but i don't think its a celica?

is the dog included in the blue ke70? also is there rear guard damage on the ke70?

yeah atkinsons dam is bloody miles away from me, sorry man :P you might have an airlock thats another option. best way to solve this, park your car uphill. or park it on flat, and jack up the front of the car. start engine coldish, with the heater on, with the radiator cap off, and let it cycle through the thermostat opening/closing... you might see some pretty big bubbles pop out (good!) or you might see nothing, or you might see lots of littel bubbles (ie the compression gases leaking). you might overflow some coolant out of the radiator onto the ground. no drama, just fill it back up again. oh and give the radiator hoses a bit of a rigurous sqeeze while doing this, helps to disloge bubbles too. just make sure the overflow bottle thing has some water in it (enough to cover the bottom of the pipe), and make sure the rad is full of water before you do this. shoudlnt have any dramas with sucking in air etc. the k motor coolign system is about as simple as it gets, you don't usually have problems with airlocks, but best to check eh.

no apologies needed! you have put alot more effort into your posts that most guys on here! which makes it easier to help you out. as silvera23 sais, make sure that the radiator is properly cleaned out. the best home method ive used is to physically remove the radiator from the car, turn it up side down, fill it with water (hold hand over bottom outllet), then let it all rush out. do this 10 or so times, untill you see nice and clear water. the theory is that just doing it in the car may not remove all the stuff, and turning it upside down may remove more from being in a different orientation.....thats the theory anyway.... failing that...best to get it cleaned at a shop, the KE radiators are a full metal/copper (whatever if is), and usally multi row. so they are a pretty damn good, alot beter than these plastic/alloy things. but generally if the water flows out of it pretty clear and RUSHES out, its probably in pretty good condition...."generally".... if you are indeed pumping compression gases into the coolant, you should feel the rubber radiator hoses pressurising quite rapidly....and you should also see bubbles in your radiator. best bet is to start your car from cold with no radiator cap on, let it idle up to opperating temp and watch for bubbles......might only happen with the thermostat opens..... id let it idle for a good 20mins, watch the thermostat open and close (rushing of water in rad etc). as for the cost of a headgasket, a VRS kit (head gasket and all the bits required) is usually about 70bucks or so. get your head checked and machined while its off, you might need a few new valves etc. so personally i would budget $300-400 for the whole job if you DIY the labor. new oil, new coolant, new points, check ya spark plugs. I'm inclined if doing serious work on an engine, to get everything up to scratch at the time, might cost ya a bit in short term, but worth it in long term. jsut make sure it definately is a HG though, hate to change it and its not the problem! where in QLD are you located? if you get really stuck I'm sure one of us can assist.

well it got released onto gt5 today... they calling it is "toyota 86 GT" and you can't buy a turbo kit for it! assuming the 3d rendering is accurate, its a pretty sweet looking car. looks much better than all the photos ive seen... and it does drift good!

depends how low you go. i had 15x7 +13 on the rear. to completely stop the tyre from scrubbing i rolled the guards. else it scrubbed on big bumps, car was pretty low....

its still pretty vague though. under code LA3, which is turbo charger or super charger addition. mentions that brakes need to be "suitable upgraded to handle the increased power" so you still need an engineers oppinoin to find out the requirements.... ive just asked that mod plate bloke about it, hopefully i get a decent answer.

i have just discovered this set of documents: http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx seems it was only updated in january 2011 as well.

80bucks.

also when i got my 4age mod plated, my guy didnt even care about the brakes or suspension. 1.3L n/a to 1.6L n/a. no big deal, same brakes as the 1.6L 4ac remember. all depends on the individual though. ive recently been speakign with the guy from "modplates.com.au", randall his name is. sent back and forwards about 10emails asking questions etc, nice guy. id recommend him.

sorry i was a bit harsh in the first few posts.....i hope this makes sense, difficult without alot of photos, but you get the idea i think. for engine mounts what we did, was we just basically created a new version of the standard item, but the angles changed becuase of the different engine and also the position of the engine in the bay, we made the engine as low as possible. basically we used 5 or 6mm plate, made a plate that bolted onto engine itself (on the CA i think it was 3 or 4 bolts). watch out for things that you might have to undo with engine in the car (oil filter, oil pressure sender, i think there is a knock sensor down there too?) we then bought gineric engine mount rubbers from repco, basically we just walked in and said "can we have the simplist looking engine mounts you have in stock". they were a solid round bit of rubber, with threads coming out either side. i have a feeling they were from a gemini, don't quote me on that. was like 4yrs ago. they looked something like this. we bolted the rubber engine mount onto the original cross member cut another bit of plate for the rubber bit to bolt to, placed that on the rubber mount (that was bolted to the chrossmember). we did this on both sides. Then we lowered the engine and gearbox in (with the formentioned plate bolted to the engine ready to go) and made sure that the engine was sitting flat and as low a possible, and not hitting anything. then we just needed to make the 2 plates that connect the 2 other plates together (the one on the engine, and the one attached to the rubber mount on the cross member) it ended up looking something like this: (image i found on the net, ours looked way better!) now for the gearbox xmember: this will be probably be very different for your car (ive not worked on a ke20 before), but all we did was use some 25x25 SHS, and a bit more of the 6mm plate above. got a nissan rubber mount, bolted this to a bit of SHS, and then figured out where to weld the plates on either side, drilled a hole in it and bolted it to the chassis. looked something like this: which came from this thread, where a guy put a ca18 into some sort of ke35 thing, probably similar to your car: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48657-pozmans-ke55-hard-top/ infact PM that guy, I'm sure he would be willing to take some photos of what he has done. basically we just tacked it together first time around. and then got the engine running and driving (carefully!), and once we knew the engine was in a good position and all the ancilaries worked, we pulled the mounts out again and welded them up properly. worked a treat! i hope this helps out a bit....

hmmm forgot about the te27... http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/71724-ke20-ke25-t50-hydraulic-clutch-conversion-options.html post number 6 shows what i had in mind.

ive done it before but in an ae86, and thats how you do it, being creative.

hey mate tried to answer below: 1.how would i go about making the mounts and can the standard ca engine mounts be used with custom mounts on k frame? A welder, a few hours, a bit of plate steel, an angle grinder. and instructions from your local authorised mod plate engineer. 2.have ke70 disc on fron..will they be enough? i highly doubt it, to the point where i would almost say definately no, refer to formentioned authorised mod plate engineer 3.can the stock ca gearbox cross member be used? probably, but not without serious modification. you would use the rubber bit, and make the metal bit bolt into your car 4.what clutch pedals can be used in a ke20? you will have to get creative and somehow fit a hydraulic clutch setup to your ke20, nothing will bolt it. 5.will i have clearance issues with a ke70 booster and a clutch master? no idea, someone will know.

looking good! yeah agreed not a fan of that visor thing, or the things on the windows. but those rear lights are AWESOME. love them.

hi heath. you see questions like what you asked, are just so vague...that knowone is going to bother to answer you. how much cash you got? how much skill you got? have you searched at all? as there are so many threads like this around. remember we are all happy to help a fellow corolla enthusiast, but only for specifc questions that you can tell the asker has already put some thought and research into. here is the thread that evan refers too, a good read: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor and the first paragrah pretty much sums it up: In One Paragraph Don't spend heaps of money, it's just a crappy old K motor. Balance everything if you can afford it. Use a 20-60 cam in a 3K, 25-65 in a 4K, 4K is better. Run 0.400" valvelift, fit heavy duty springs if you don't want the stock ones to wear out in a couple of years, use 4K valve gear. Shim the oil pump spring 3mm for more oil pressure. Run between stock and 10:1 compression. Get the distributor recurved. Fit extractors and an exhaust larger than 1.5" but not larger than 2". Fit a new timing chain and tensioner. Put something better than the stock carby on, but not too big. Don't rev it past 8 grand.

yeah not much use, go a rear sway bar before the front one or a strut brace. when i had my ke with all the suspension done (springs shocks, bushes, lowered etc) i noticed a fair different with the strut brace, but i doubt you will notice anythign with the rest still stock. in heinsight i reckon mods should go something like this. -bushes - rear trailing arm, LCA and castor arm. -rear sway bar (with new bushes) -front sway bar (if you think it needs it) -shock absorbers (with springs to suit, either lowered or not) -if lowered go an adj panhard rod with new bushes (comes with it usually) -strut brace. but i mean if you pick up any of these for cheap, throw them on, i got my strut brace for 40bucks. did its job. that particular strut brace looks a bit dodgy, id want the bar itself to be as straight as possible. all those bends just promotes flexibility. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/84-87-AE86-TOYOTA-COROLLA-GTS-SR5-FRONT-UPPER-ALUMINUM-STRUT-TOWER-BAR-BRACE-/230696292541?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b69210bd much better and only 70bucks, yeah its ae86, but just re drill the 2 outer holes a tad and it fits good (thats what i did) also el-o-el at the rear strut bar, a peice of bar with 2 small plates on the end, for ONE HUNDRED AND FOUTY SIX BUCK$!!

keep in mind its what 30+ yrs old? everything is repairable, its just how many dollars its going to cost is the question. if you can't drive the car , take a few decent photos (not the ones you have posted there), and drop into your local panel beater. they will tell you straight away what you are up for. might not be a bad idea to get the other side re welded while your at it too.

looks are a personal choice, but good luck finding any decent tyres in 14"!

my understanding is the "problem" with glass panels is that if you hit a pedestrian, the glass will tend to shatter into sharp bits. potentially "stabbing" someone, whilst hitting them. its all a bit rediculous considering that a bull bar is legal, but bonnet pins arent. i know which i would rather be hit by. but hey thems the rules.

I'll be VERY suprised if subaru brings in their version, as stated up there, it throws out the 'we have the safest cars that have simetrical all-wheel-drive' trade mark. I'ts certainly ugly from the back, hopefully they will release a sportier version with different wheels and a rear bumper perhaps, spruce it up a bit. The front is cool though. hopefully the interiour build quality is up to scratch, as its a reasonably cheap car for a sporty brand newy (under 30 yeah?) hate to destroy it with a poxy plastic interiour.

also remember that brake fluid absorbs water over time (well dot 3 and 4 anyway), so your current fluid may be old and yuck, and water has a boiling point of 100degC....not 300+ like brakd fluid does. so your best bet would be to change the fluid that is in there at a minimum, with preferably something as higher boiling point as you can afford. The 'Penrite Sin 600' has a boiling point of 310degC, thats what i put through my brake system last week. $23 for 500ml of the stuff from autobahn, which should be plenty for the clutch fluid. drain all the fluid out, then flush this through. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/SIN%20Brake%20Fluid.pdf this was the highest boiling point per dollar that i found, you can go higher, the Motul 660, which is 350DegC i think, but thats about twice the price.... even the castrol super dot 4 stuff from supercheap (i think this is only about $11/500ml), has a boiling point of 280degC, which would do the trick, its only clutch after all, no massive brake heat here. http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_italy/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/TDS_RESSDOT4.PDF heat wrapping i think is an excelent idea, that stuff is fairly cheap. just make sure you do a good job and see if you can find something that is somewhat water resistant perhaps. as if it absorbs water it will just rust out your exhaust. and you probably only need to do it in the viscinity of the clutch slave, 300mm or so. save wrapping the whole lot. though keeping the heat in the extractors will help the gases get out faster, so maybe wrapping the whole lot might help there . keeps under bonnet temps down too! if the exhaust isnt actually touching the slave cylidner, then i think these two things should keep it under control.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/14411-ke70daveske70/ photos here of how i did it. bit messy but it worked.

this is great. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=2pu8oNt6600

i believe KAAZ make an aftermarket 2 way that fits in the R31/commondore housing as well.