ke70dave

yeah MAP is the way to go. although my understanding is that the MAP has a very narrow band of opperation, anythign above about 15-20% throttle and the map is useless? you would still using the TPS for the enrichment tables though? ie the accel pump. good to see the development continuing.

yeah we had my mates CA18 gearbox rebuilt at one stage. not much change from 900bucks. parts arent that expensive (still a few hundred), but labour is a killer!!! most places are on 80-100 bucks an hour....

i sure hope not, i don't like the sound of babies. too much crying. actually it has only recenetly occured to me exactly what incubus means. click me a little disturbing....

me to man!!! I'm in the sitting part, row D i think. i was just going to put that in here to. its going to be quite excellent. I have listened to nothing but incubus all day in preparation.

I have a nice hifi speaker project i will put up soon, just waiting for all my components to turn up in the mail.

my ke70 had (and probably still has) a jesus fish, and it was knowwhere near original:P

yeah ive driven a few cars wtih the fly by wire newish golf with fly by wire and DSG gearbox, as well as the newish falcon and commondore. felt incredibly disconnected from all cars, especially the golf. was like i was along for the ride... agreed it worked awesome for cruise control.

yeah it was interseting what that guy was saying about how he thinks this new car has put the focus back on the driver, not on the car as much of the electronics have been doing lately. hopefully they succeeded, looks like he was havnig a blast driving it. but at ~38k its going to be a while before i can afford one. thats not really that cheap. now i want toyota to enter the WRC with it;) shoe horn a wrx gearbox in there to get the front wheels turning, and add a hair dryer.

according to these : http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/21494-5-or-7k-into-ke30/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/8537-7k-into-ke10/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/15311-7k-into-ke70/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/8712-7k-or-5k-into-ke30/ appears you bolt it all in except you need to modify the sump to clear the crossmember.

head over to rexnet.com.au. and all you will find is hate against anything that isnt awd, turbo and doesnt understeer. any talk of RWD and you are instantly flamed. interesting bunch these subaru owners. oh wait...thats me.

hmmmm drive by wire is definately a minus...but seems everyone is doing it, its an emissions thing i thought? looks like a fun car though, i want to have a go.

2 movies i can watch over and over again and never get bored. -The matrix (original, 2 and 3 were not so good) -gone in 60secs (2000, nick cage) I just love gone in 60secs for the fact that it has real cars, real awesome cars, and doing real driving. Minimal CGI (just the jump at the end..) and reasonable acting and a reasonable story line. Not to mention the sound and music is fantastic, could listen to that shelby mustang all day. The matrix...well thats just sci fi genius. another notible film along the lines of the matrix is a movie called "Dark City". from the late 90's, low budget film, but its pretty good!

its all pretty boring out to toowomba the normal way....100km/h for a few hrs....except for the 80/60km/h bits where there is usually a speed camera. you should organise the cruise for easter weekend, and i can just meet you all for lunch;)

the downside to any factory diff in a corolla is that there are no LSD available and anything that will bolt into your car has been designed for a 1.3L push rod single carby 1970 engine. conversion is the onyl way to get anything decent in there, and yep...big bucks. R31 diff complete - ~$200-300 shortening and modifying - 500-600 custom made tailshaft - 400 hand brake cables ? $not sure custom made brake lines pan hard rod conversion into chassis....$lots best to learn how to weld and use a measuring tape to save bucks. the beauty of the R31 diff, is it is relatively big, but not over the top. it has disc brakes standard on the rear. you can get the LSD from the R31 silhouette, which isnt all that great, but can be made to work, or you can buy a kaaz 2 way centre brand new and bolt it in. you could use a T series differential, same process applies, but people have broken the axels before "reasonable easy". though i suspect it woudl be fine for anything you can throw at it within reason. best to somehow compare the T series and the R31 diff side by side, and even if you can compare the weight. if the R31 diff isnt much more i woudl be inclined to go with it, based on the disc brakes and the fact its a tad beafier. if one day you decide to put a turbo engine in, the R31 will be up to the task, the T series probably not. or it woudl be, but not bullet proof.

such an open question mate. -drag racing, street driven daily, rally or drift? -155mm 60$ budget tyres, or 255mm racing slicks? -Do you drive with mechanical sympathy, or do you drive like a moron and slam gears everywhere? plenty of people have killed diffs with factory k motors, plenty of people have had 200hp and driven around for years with no problem.

doesnt a "daily" imply that it is cheap, doesnt need maintainence, goes forever, and is cheap on fuel? thats an ae92 with a 4afe. You could get an n/a S13 silvia for 4k? no cool factor other than aircon.

just go to google...type in "X engine into ke20/25" where X is any engine that you can think of, and it has probably been done before. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/19748-v8-ke20-1uzfet-project/ here is a v8 and a straight 6 turbo;) judging by the sound of your first post, i suspect you will be starting off with something like a 4k or 5k engine.

ask the mechanic what he meant.....?

thats a bit sneaky. now everyone will be going slow on on ramps, attempting to merge at 60km/h into traffic going at 100km/h. that will make the roads safer and the traffic merge smoothly. wait...

sounds like you are missing a ground. check up near the right headlight, there is a ground that is bolted to the chassis via a 10mm bolt. i missed this once when doing something, all hell broke loose in my electricial system. if this isnt a problem, look for other ones around.

all i see is a mild cam, side draft carbies and slighty higher compression. no need for expensive forged pistons there! oem replacements through a reputable company will be fine!

Toowoomba is a really nice place! I go up there every easter for the music festical.

not much can squeel in the front of an ae92. i assume you had the brake pads replaced? only thing else that can squeel is the backing/dust plate on the disc, if this has been bent at some stage, then it might be rubbing on your disc.

that photo up there of all those kids standing around that panel van is hilarius. what is with this latest trend of wearing singlets, short short shorts, flat hats on sideways, and shoes that look like slippers? looks rediculous. i still wear knee length dennim shorts, curve brim baseball caps, polo shirts and thongs. though i do get funny looks from the formentioned cool kids, i obviosly don't dress cool enough :sob:

ok i assume you have searched right? I'm going to write out the list again, and this time put it in my signature! (if it fits...) you do not need a bosch 044 pump, that is MILES to big. you will just be pumping fuel around your engine bay, heating it up, and potentially creating vapour lock at the inlet of your pump (google it, interesting phenominon, which i belive i experienced when i was running a fuel pump that was too big and was low on petrol) do do a 4age conversion properly i belive you need the following: General stuff: -4age engine (obviosly) -T50 gearbox with brand new clutch slave, if clutch slave is on passenger side (exhaust side) banjo bolt on the clutch slave to give more room for exhaust. -Ae71 or custom made tailshaft. -rwd intake manifold (howeever you do it on a smallport, weld it up or adaptor, or a jdm ae86 one for bigport) -extractors (either oem or aftermarket, becareful alot of aftermarket ones will foul on the clutch slave if it is an ADM gearbox) -engine to gearbox braces (i didnt use them, but others reckon its a good idea, if you can get them best to get them) -ae71 engine cross member (or custom made) -ae71 gearbox cross member (or custom made) -ae71 or ae86 steel engine and rubber mounts, you can buy the rubber things new, but the steel ones you will have to find or make. -ae71 pedal box and brand new clutch master -clutch hard hydraulic line, grab one off any old RWD toyota. bend to suit...carefully. -NEW clutch soft line (from hard line to clutch slave) DO NOT use a 2nd hand 30yr old rubber line. -200mm flywheel is fine, new clutch kit including release bearing and you need to put a pilot bearing in the end of the crank shaft (which is bearing part number 6001 i think) electrical -loom and ecu to suit your engine, bigport try and get one from an jdm ae86 (so it fits the car properly), if smallport you have to go FWD, its a tight squeeze, but do-able. -circuit opening relay configuration for the fuel pump: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Circuit_Opening_Relay_Wiring -wire in the alternator via this: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/Alternator_Wiring_Diagram -wire in a check engine light- the pin on the ecu is earth, use a small 12V bulb with +12V ign on one side, other side to the ecu pin. then you can diagnose problems when they arise. -you need to run decent sized wires down to the fuel pumps, just ground the pumps down the back though. -you will need various relays to make this all happen, do it once, do it properly. cooling system: -FWD 4age remote thermostat housing, thermostat, and associated pipes -standard radiator is plenty enough, waste of time buying some huge aluminium thing if the standard one is in good condition. i used stnadard ae71 one for a few yrs with 16V, no dramas on the street. find pipes to suit, may need long ones. make it look something like this http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/16481-Hooking-up-a-4age-16v-RWD-cooling-system fuel system: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/37561-ke70-fuel-injection-question-vl-fuel-pump/ read this, and don't skimp and just put in an external pump, it will hate you, and the noise will drive you up the wall. This should be pretty much everything for the conversion, any questions on what i have typed....highlight it...and google it...as thats how i found all these links. more info here: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/Converting_to_RWD don't use ANY 2nd hand hydraulic equipment (clutch stuff) and don't use a 2nd hand clutch either. new stuff where possible in a conversion is always better, then you know what you are dealing with from the beginning. hope this helps.